I am going to be replacing the barrel on a .38 2" snubby (not a S&W). It is set up for a pinned barrel and I will be utilizing the pin.
Do I also want to put a dab of Loctite before screwing it together?
I am going to be replacing the barrel on a .38 2" snubby (not a S&W). It is set up for a pinned barrel and I will be utilizing the pin.
Do I also want to put a dab of Loctite before screwing it together?
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What make is the pistol ?
We cant give accurate advise with out ALL the information
Don't use LocTite!
Is barrel chrome-moly or stainless? It matters.
If Stainless barrel use Permatex Nickel Anti-Seize, US Part Number: 77134, It is NOT harmful to use this product on a carbon-steel or CM barrel.
Protects metal parts from seizing and galling at temperatures up to 2400°F (1316°C). It is recommended where copper contamination must be avoided, under conditions of extreme pressure and temperature, and with stainless steel, titanium and nickel alloys.
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+1 on no Loctite. It is not necessary, especially when pinning the barrel. The anti-seize would be a good idea but, at a minimum, clean and lubricate the threads prior to tightening.
When it's time to fight, you fight like you are the third monkey on the ramp to Noah's Ark.... and brother, it's STARTING TO RAIN!!
Ruger factory used red loctite for their loose barrel problems.
You don't want to use copper anti-sieze with stainless due to galvanic reaction.
https://www.all-spec.com/loctite-anti-seize
The ENEMY is listening.
HE wants to know what YOU know.
Keep it to yourself.
Well, learn something all the time. I thought the galvanic reaction only occurred in the presence of saltwater. Thanks for the information. Fortunately for me and the folks that I have done rebarrel work for, I use stainless+ grease, all except for pressing barrels into the AK trunions. Hey, it's an AK so........
When it's time to fight, you fight like you are the third monkey on the ramp to Noah's Ark.... and brother, it's STARTING TO RAIN!!
Technically IMHO galvanic means "in the presence of an electrolyte"...so galvanic corrosion would not happen in the presence of water that was 7.0 PH but would if the PH ere 6.0 or 8.0 ?? I have seen really bad galvanic corrosion happen when people mixed steel and un anodized aluminum in a machine that has coolant being used....or bolted aluminum fixtures to a cast iron table and coolant was present. It was bad enough that it rapidly ate 1/2" dia cavities in both metals in a few cases...within a few months.
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BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |