These break in pieces and don't penetrate.
Much safer for practise, most normal slugs keep going forever.
Safety slug... Varmint slug...
These break in pieces and don't penetrate.
Much safer for practise, most normal slugs keep going forever.
Safety slug... Varmint slug...
Good point, best have it break up.
What targets do you use them on? For our shotgun area, we really can only shoot clays (not an option for solids) and paper, we have no steel poppers on that range that we can use them on.
Mostly paper and clays. Some places steel,not poppers though.
But I've had this mold only for a short while, I don't have "the load" yet. Sort of a special slug, Lyman style wad slugs are easier to cast and load.
But we'll see.
I didn't even think of the fact that after it passes through the paper, it will split open when hitting the backstop or dirt.
The guys that want slugs done, i'm not sure they are going to reload as such, they hope to cut the crimp off, remove pellets and load a solid. As long as they are careful with the factory charge to solid choice, they feel it should be ok.
The mould i have is from Russia, looks fiddly to use, but hopefully i get to play on the weekend to see what i can cast.
.
The hosting site says that Guru is meditating.
Attachment 236543
http://hi-performancebulletcoatings....-oz-container/
available in US
hey Aus. this is my first post been reading for a long time and learning. Over here in the states Donnie names all of the colors, the 254 red you used for the Deadpool bullets do you know what it is called here in the states?
For all of you coating gurus, i do need to pick your brain on one problem. A little back ground me and a buddy have been coating for 2+ years we started with Bronze, we have used and have most of the colors that donnie sales. Never have we had any of the bullets not pass the smash or wipe test, out lead is range recover.
The only issue we have ever had was with the bronze, it is rough when baked, all the other colors we have used were awsome and so smooth it is hard to grab them. We have adjusted the mix using Denatured Alky, adjusted swril time, adjusted and used lighter coats, it always comes out rough, can someone give us some other ideas to try?
Last edited by Stoney Cahill; 02-23-2019 at 08:58 PM. Reason: more info
Welcome to CB stoney
Don't tumble/swirl them as long. IF the sound changes you waited too long. Swirling to long usually is the cause of rough coating 10-15 seconds is enough.
If you are coating a lot I'd suggest making a coating machine like a 2-gallon cement mixer with a couple nylon agitators.
I had the same problem with bronze and I add 20mil more acetone to the mix and swirl much less and dump, I also let my coated cast dry overnight if I can, if doing a large batch I have a tray sitting on top of my oven getting warmed while oven is cooking a batch. The rough coat has no ill effect on accuracy that I have found. Regards Stephen
G'day Stoney.
Mate, Not sure if Donnie has Red 254. It's not a bad colour, But I personally like the Candy Apple due to it being a Metallic.
Lime Green is a Mystery to me too. Joe must have been keeping it a secret.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
G'day Stoney.
Mate, Not sure if Donnie has Red 254. It's not a bad colour, But I personally like the Candy Apple due to it being a Metallic.
Lime Green is a Mystery to me too. Joe must have been keeping it a secret.
Our favorite up to this point has been black cherry we have done some mad science stuff and mixed colors and have a couple that we are trying to duplicate in a larger oven and larger batches. We coated yesterday and used Candy apple yesterday and tried to dead pool with the candy apple it was ok but not as good as yours.
I will try the extra 20mil. We did change up our swirl time yesterday we are dumping much wetter than before and we do large batches running 2 trays at 15lb per tray. Our oven is a house hold oven that was given to us and it dose great for the most part, no fan so we do have some trays that are different colors when they come out,
We will spend a weekend casting and then get together and coat and size, the next weekend. Normally we are cooking 10 min cooling 10 min with a fan on the bullets so we run the trays quick. we are finishing up our own sizer now, have to automate the sizing due to the amount of bullets we produce, all of this is for ourselves we shoot Cowboy action and Wildbunch and do go through the lead. We shoot em and then a couple of times a year go out and get them back and recast them and shoot em again.
From day one we have never had a bullet fail the wipe or smash, and never had any leading issues at all. This is one great coating, I will keep my fingers crossed a blue or purple shows up one day the wife wants purple or pink to shoot LOL
I just happened to look into my 12 gauge barrel today,made me laugh aloud:
The barrel looks as if it was just cleaned,cleaned very well. I have been shooting various fullbore slugs lately, full power often approaching 1500 fps ,Vihtavuori N340 . All the old lead/plastic deposits (there must have been some, I don't clean that shotgun very often) have gone, just by shooting ~ 150 Hi Teked fullbore slugs during the week.
This is just great,in addition to all the clean,lead-free handling attaching wads etc,the barrel gets cleaned up by shooting.
Oh,the slug velocity spread has been minimal by the way.
Attachment 236731
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |