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Thread: simple Hi-Tek coating

  1. #10781
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    Thanks for the tips, just need to find some said jars and bottles.

    I do a third coat just for looks, i think if i used a metalic, i could get away with 2 coats.

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  3. #10783
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    hehe oldie bit a goodie.

  4. #10784
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    Got my Hard Alloy XRF:d now:

    Attachment 229689



    Attachment 229690.

  5. #10785
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petander View Post
    Got my Hard Alloy XRF:d now:

    Attachment 229689



    Attachment 229690.


    Petander,
    You also have nearly 0.2% Copper in your alloy.
    From smash pictures, it seems that the alloy is very hard and actually splits with Smash tests.
    The coating remains on alloy.

    Ausglock has coated the Gold Composite and sized it. He will be shooting it Saturday.

    He also has found a "blue" made in 2013. I am going to try and find the recipe, as it seems, that aside from being very dark, it seems to be Blue in the sun.
    If I find recipe, I will experiment to see if I can get it to work without going Green or another strange colour.

  6. #10786
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    I noticed the copper too, seemed weird to be suspended in lead, but can' see it causing issues. Did "white metal" contain copper/ the stuff used for bearings in he olden days.

    Looking forward to seeing how the blue turns out, there have been a few people asking about it.

  7. #10787
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tazza View Post
    I noticed the copper too, seemed weird to be suspended in lead, but can' see it causing issues. Did "white metal" contain copper/ the stuff used for bearings in he olden days.

    Looking forward to seeing how the blue turns out, there have been a few people asking about it.

    Tazza, This colour has driven me close to jumping off a bridge in frustration.
    Every Blue shad I have tried, (there were dozens) over many years, none ended up blue.
    There are many technical reasons, and I wont try to elaborate, but in short there is a reaction with Blues with Hi-Tek and it destroys original colour.
    Examining this 2013 recipe, this one seems to not have the chemical make up composition of the others, that I am predicting, may be OK.

    A reformulation may work, but also, it may not. I am not counting my chickens until they are fully grown.

  8. #10788
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    Quote Originally Posted by HI-TEK View Post
    Petander,
    You also have nearly 0.2% Copper in your alloy.
    From smash pictures, it seems that the alloy is very hard and actually splits with Smash tests.
    The coating remains on alloy.

    Ausglock has coated the Gold Composite and sized it. He will be shooting it Saturday.
    .

    I try to load and shoot some when I get out of this chemistry class.

    This alloy 18 BHN and gold is just bonding very,very good. Black has some gold in it if you look carefully, I cleaned a black bowl by coating gold in it.

    What do you think of Niobium? I read that it easily reacts with non-metals when warmed up.

    Attachment 229729.

    This will lead to many more XrF:s. Very educational.

  9. #10789
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petander View Post
    .

    I try to load and shoot some when I get out of this chemistry class.

    This alloy 18 BHN and gold is just bonding very,very good. Black has some gold in it if you look carefully, I cleaned a black bowl by coating gold in it.

    What do you think of Niobium? I read that it easily reacts with non-metals when warmed up.

    Attachment 229729.

    This will lead to many more XrF:s. Very educational.
    I have always wondered what sorts of alloys are there around the world.
    You may have gotten onto the point of "reaction" It is possible that this material may have formed compounds with the coating at surface. Who knows what the reaction was.
    I could not even guess at this. I have never had any thing to do with Niobium. It is all new to me also.
    With Your Acid soaking, you may have Niobium Chloride being formed. It is a guess.

  10. #10790
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    Quote Originally Posted by HI-TEK View Post
    With Your Acid soaking, you may have Niobium Chloride being formed. It is a guess.
    .

    Something starts to sizzle right away in HCL. Can't be lead or copper,tin maybe later on,not immediately.

    I may have invented World's First Niobium Boolits. Go figure.

  11. #10791
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    Copper is supposed to make the alloy more elastomeric (hold together better) good for higher speed boolits

    Petander's Est alloy hardness == 20.3 BHN
    Last edited by Grmps; 11-02-2018 at 03:41 PM.

  12. #10792
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    Joe
    You know I'm in for some of the blue if it turns out that it cooks to a blue.
    I used some of the orange, that goes burnt orange when you bake it, on some .380 hollow points last night. Love that color. And some of the original liquid Gold 1035 on some .308s. That has been the one I have used the most.

    Grmps is correct. Many on the forum have added some copper to bullets to make them more malleable yet high BHN. I would do it as a regular thing. But it is a time consuming process. And I can get what I want without it. Still, it is something to learn for the small bullet high pressure loads and anyone who wants to run their bullets at max loads while using Hi Tek. There are several threads on this forum where you can learn how to do it. What Grmps said about 20.3 BHN can be exceeded.
    While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..

  13. #10793
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    My Hard Alloy (the one XrF:d) gets brittle around 18 BHN. Still sort of "malleable".

    Attachment 229755.


    But hey,can Aqualube 3000 be used as a bullet mould release agent,too? I never used any,just noticed what it says on the bottle.

    Attachment 229756

  14. #10794
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    lubes/release agents

    Quote Originally Posted by Petander;

    But hey,can Aqualube 3000 be used as a bullet mould release agent,too? I never used any,just noticed what it says on the bottle.

    [ATTACH=CONFIG
    229756[/ATTACH]
    The Aqualube is used a dry film non contaminating lubricant release agent anti-stick.
    There is another product, for mold release of molten metals, Hi-Tek 500 PLUS. This will stop Lead and alloy spatter sticking to surfaces, and is also a potent lubricant.
    With release applications for Aqualube , it is used to stop things like Fiberglass resin, glues and similar from bonding, especially when moulding various shapes.
    This material is used for aerosolised applications where no solvents are used.
    It lubricates and stops binding/sticking between all surfaces, metal, synthetic or combinations.
    It is used to lubricate wooden drawers to stop wear on rails, and make drawer slide like silk. It is also used when cutting Aluminium to stop metal pick up on the blade.
    Once applied to a surface, it is extremely difficult to remove as it becomes totally insoluble with all cleaners/solvents.
    DONT SPILL IT ONTO THE FLOOR, extremely slippery. If you spill it, it is a sandblasting removal.

  15. #10795
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    Gday fellas
    HITEK is now blooded.
    a recent trip for fallow had me use cast 380 gr GC from a Hoch mould, coated with HITEK bronze, with a BHN of approx 12.Over 28 gr of Blue Dot in the .404 J
    Texas heart shot on a fallow at about 50-60 m, mate saw the bullet exit from the front.
    the fallow didnt miss a step, ran about 20m and collapsed into a blackberry thicket
    Trying to gut him, we found the entire abdominal cavity was mostly mush, a handspan worth of exit in the chest. So how did he go so far??
    So we got away with the backstraps and one drumsticks, saving the rest for the cocky's dogs.
    Pics when I figure out how to upload on photobucket.
    End of that day had 5 shots of Hitek and jacketed fired. I didnt clean the rifles until 2 days later, a very faint wisp of residue- gone in 2-3 patches
    Cheers
    Last edited by eljefeoz; 11-02-2018 at 08:41 PM.
    "...Some days its rocket science, and some days it just zinc..."

  16. #10796
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    Sounds like you had a good day, mate.

  17. #10797
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    I chronoed TMG Gold today with a Marlin, it was 1975 fps, quite a bit faster than I thought. I shot a 20 box now, ten yesterday and it felt like a light load.

    I'm not used to this light (325 grain) bullets. Very easy to shoot imo. Absolutely zery leading,I even verified with The Dip. And the barrel is visibly factory rough. SBL Marlin may have better ergonomy than my old one used to have,recoil-wise. But this load is a fun plinker,50 grains VV N130. BHN 16,boo size 4595,expander 459. RCBS 45-325-RN seated to crimp groove,light crimp,CCI mag rifle primer,three coats TMG Gold. Drop weight 324.

    What else? Oh,I I had pork stew for dinner. I have coated 18 BHN version,too,I may push them faster for fun.

    Attachment 229819

    Attachment 229820

  18. #10798
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    Posting on IMGUR is easier mate

    Posting pictures using IMGUR
    1) Go to https://imgur.com/
    2)Select sign up: Fill out information or register with: facebook, twitter, Google+ or Yahoo account
    3)Log into your account
    4)Click on your name and select images
    5) click on the Add Images box (upper right) -- click on browse and find your picture
    or
    6) On your computer, rt click on the picture you want to upload and hit copy (or hit control C)
    7) go back to IMGUR, L click on the girafe/up arrow and either rt click and select paste or hit control V
    or (the easiest way), IF you have more than 1 monitor, drag the picture you want and drop it anywhere on the IMGUR screen
    8) On IMGUR, Left click on the picture you want
    9) Then click on COPY next to [BBCode (message boards & forums)]
    10)Go to the post you want to put the image in, either right click and select paste or hit [Ctrl + V]
    11) Save your post and you're done.

    photobucket has had a lot of problems (the blokes got greedy) and is on the way out.

  19. #10799
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grmps View Post
    Posting on IMGUR is easier mate

    Posting pictures using IMGUR
    1) Go to https://imgur.com/
    2)Select sign up: Fill out information or register with: facebook, twitter, Google+ or Yahoo account
    3)Log into your account
    4)Click on your name and select images
    5) click on the Add Images box (upper right) -- click on browse and find your picture
    or
    6) On your computer, rt click on the picture you want to upload and hit copy (or hit control C)
    7) go back to IMGUR, L click on the girafe/up arrow and either rt click and select paste or hit control V
    or (the easiest way), IF you have more than 1 monitor, drag the picture you want and drop it anywhere on the IMGUR screen
    8) On IMGUR, Left click on the picture you want
    9) Then click on COPY next to [BBCode (message boards & forums)]
    10)Go to the post you want to put the image in, either right click and select paste or hit [Ctrl + V]
    11) Save your post and you're done.

    photobucket has had a lot of problems (the blokes got greedy) and is on the way out.

    Grmps
    Thanks a lot, I hope I can master this system. Practice makes perfect.

  20. #10800
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petander View Post
    I chronoed TMG Gold today with a Marlin, it was 1975 fps, quite a bit faster than I thought. I shot a 20 box now, ten yesterday and it felt like a light load.

    I'm not used to this light (325 grain) bullets. Very easy to shoot imo. Absolutely zery leading,I even verified with The Dip. And the barrel is visibly factory rough. SBL Marlin may have better ergonomy than my old one used to have,recoil-wise. But this load is a fun plinker,50 grains VV N130. BHN 16,boo size 4595,expander 459. RCBS 45-325-RN seated to crimp groove,light crimp,CCI mag rifle primer,three coats TMG Gold. Drop weight 324.

    What else? Oh,I I had pork stew for dinner. I have coated 18 BHN version,too,I may push them faster for fun.

    Attachment 229819

    Attachment 229820


    All I can say is WOW

    I heard, is that eljefeoz has blooded the Hi-Tek and was enjoying some very large drumsticks.
    I recall the Guy at Gateway, was smoking and roasting some Deer and making spicy sausages. Would not tell me his recipe.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check