Black Arkansas stones.

[Thumbcocker]

Why are these so expensive? Looks like a decent sized o e is nearly $100 and only 1/2 inch thick.

[rancher1913]

what are they for

[BK7saum]

Wow, I have a black stone about 6x2x1 that was given to me a number of years ago. Not sure what it is, but I use it as a finish stone. Sure does get those blades razor sharp. Wouldnt trade it for anything.

[Tom W.]

what are they for

Knife sharpening.

[DDriller]

6 x 2 x 1 $30.85 at RioGrande.com

[beemer]

If a blade isn't already sharp it won't do much good but if it is that will make it scary. Next time you sharpen a knife with a standard rock take a loupe and look at the edge. Even if the edge is sharp it will look rough under the loupe. After working with a very fine stone take another look, you will not believe the difference.

I found a black rock at a flea market it was 10 X 2 X 1, gave $5 for it. My Dad looked at the way one corner was flaked off and said it was slate and was probably a barber's hone. I like good hones and pick up any I find cheep.

[Walks]

I have a 6x2x1/2 my DAD gave me 45+yrs ago to sharpen BROADHEADS.

I bought a 8x2x3/4 10yrs later. Used it to sharpen all my knives, including my CHICAGO Cutlery Kitchen knives. The day after My WIFE and I got back from our HONEYMOON, She found out what a SHARP KNIFE WAS.

Straight to the EMERGENCY ROOM. Cut her Left index finger to the bone. Thank THE GOOD LORD she missed the nerve. I bought her a set of serrated kitchen knives, The next day.

We still have 2 sets of Knives on our Kitchen Counter, 36yrs later. My Knife block has a RED CANVAS COVER OVER IT.

[CASTER OF LEAD]

Pretty hard to beat an Arkansas black stone for the final passes on a blade. Never used one on broadheads, but imagine it would work extremely well. - Caster

[rockrat]

The stuff is HARD!!! Our geology class was down in the Ouachita mtns. in Oklahoma and there was a layer of black Arkansas Novaculite that the stones are made from. Took my rock pick and it took a bit of work, but finally got me a chunk the size of a brick. My rock pick was missing about 3/4" off the end.
I would imagine cutting it with a diamond rock saw takes awhile. Mine is about 4" x 2" x 1". Still looks new.

[Love Life]

I use soapy water on my black Arkansas stones. I lapped them flat using silicon carbide powder.

[375RUGER]

The only one I have, I paid $.50 in the late 80s at my LGS. The best stone i've ever purchased for putting that final edge on. I bet it's worth $100 nowadays.

[Lloyd Smale]

spend the 80 bucks on a work sharp belt sharpener.

[fivegunner]

I have a 3x8 Black sharping stone for Knives, I use a 1/2x6 Arkansas stone to finish 1911 sears and hammer hooks . yep they are pricey .

[Thumbcocker]

Ordered one from Rio Grande.

[samari46]

For you woodworkers here, depending on wether or not you do the micro bevel on a freshly sharpened plane blade Either way the black hard stones excell at doing a really sharp edge. A little Stanley block plane I use for making patches or dutchmen for rifle stocks (Bubba's) get the black hard stone treatment. We're talking about shavings you can see through. My dads old wood bodied plane was a mess. Resurfaced the bottom surface. Cleaned all the rust off the blade and everything else and black enamel paint where it was removed. The blade had to be resurfaced on the back as it had a couple dips in it and was not flat. Old $20 dollar cast iron surface plate and 400,600 &800 silicon carbide grinding paste. Then layout blue on one side of the surface flat and almost perfect transfer of the blue. The primary bevel was done with a roller guide after a few hits and misses got it where I wanted it. Then just slightly raised the guide up for the secondary or micro bevel. When done couple swipes on the surface plate to remove any burrs. Stick now razor sharp blade and adjust the blade and clamping iron then depth. On a clean 2x4" piece of wood all you hear is the blade slicing through the wood. Sorry for being so long winded. Frank

[Traffer]

For you woodworkers here, depending on wether or not you do the micro bevel on a freshly sharpened plane blade Either way the black hard stones excell at doing a really sharp edge. A little Stanley block plane I use for making patches or dutchmen for rifle stocks (Bubba's) get the black hard stone treatment. We're talking about shavings you can see through. My dads old wood bodied plane was a mess. Resurfaced the bottom surface. Cleaned all the rust off the blade and everything else and black enamel paint where it was removed. The blade had to be resurfaced on the back as it had a couple dips in it and was not flat. Old $20 dollar cast iron surface plate and 400,600 &800 silicon carbide grinding paste. Then layout blue on one side of the surface flat and almost perfect transfer of the blue. The primary bevel was done with a roller guide after a few hits and misses got it where I wanted it. Then just slightly raised the guide up for the secondary or micro bevel. When done couple swipes on the surface plate to remove any burrs. Stick now razor sharp blade and adjust the blade and clamping iron then depth. On a clean 2x4" piece of wood all you hear is the blade slicing through the wood. Sorry for being so long winded. Frank

Wow, that is some good work you are talking about there. I would like to see pictures.
I keep coming back to this thread to see if someone will information on how to identify stones. I love good stones. Never had any expensive ones. Just stuff I have accumulated from thrift store and yard sales. Stones that were probably used to sharpen razors years ago. I lost most of them but got a really nice one recently for 50 cents that works better than anything I have ever used. But I don't know if it is a Black Arkansas stone or something else.

[Bulldogger]

I had an inexpensive medium and fine stone set I got at WalMart or somewhere years ago that was my go-to for a true edge. Lost is somewhere about two years ago and keep choking over the price now to replace what had been a $7 set 15 years ago...

I need quit grousing and pony up though, as Arkansas stones give an edge like nothing else.

Bulldogger

[samari46]

Traffer, I'm electronically challenged. Which means I don't do pics as I never learned how. Now too old and stubborn to learn. Don't take credit for what I posted as what I learned came from some wood working magazines from years ago. Pretty much stopped what wood working I did as my back starts reminding me that I've spent too much time standing up. Been walking with a cane as my back went out and very painful. I get these twinges and the muscles tighten up making things worse. If I'm wrong someone correct me but seem to remember that there were three types of sharpening stones. Soft wa****a, next one is a harder wa****a and the black one is the last of the bunch. Start with the first, progress to the second and finish off with the black one. I like to do knives with a wider bevel than what the factory does. For me at least it's easier to sharpen and keep sharp. CRKT if thats right now lists tomahawks in their catalog. Got one with the hammer on the opposite end of the blade. The blade after I got done is now sharp it will shave hair off your arm. There I go rambling on again. Frank

[pjh421]

I couldn't sharpen a knife with a stone no matter how hard I tried. Then i watched a few Murray Carter you tube vids and it was like the clouds parted. Now I use a granite inspection plate, a spray bottle of water and a bunch of different grits of wet or dry. Works like a charm! Another guy who was in his chef costume made a very useful you tube video that shows how he made a strop from corrugated cardboard and Flitz. I wish I'd known how easy this is years ago. I used to use a Lansky but noticed it becomes more difficult after many sharpenings to get that perfect edge. Murray explains how you need to thin the area you're attempting to sharpen in order to get a more favorable geometry. Convex grinds (like a katana) are the way to go. Pulling the spine of the knife toward you allows you to impart a slight flipping up to the end of each stroke, resulting in a convex grind. When you've done this through all the grades of wet or dry and followed with some stropping to break off the wire edge left after sharpening, the resulting polished bevels and razor edge are pretty nice!

[W.R.Buchanan]

Made sure I stole mine from So Cal Edison before they ran us off. It is a Norton 8x2x1

Where these stones really shine is sharpening Strait Razors. They are definitely finishing stones and if you don't have the edge sharp to begin with it will take a you a month to see any difference. Especially if the knife is made from hard tool steel like so many are nowadays.

That said there are some knives that need to be looked at. I was given a Ruger folding knife at SHOT 2 years ago. It was made by CRKT.

I use this knife everyday for opening mail, boxes and cutting steaks or an occasional piece of rope. I have touched that blade up about 3 times on crock sticks since I've owned it and it will shave hair right now. Whatever they are doing works! Never had any knife hold an edge this well.

I made Custom Knives in the mid 80's and sold about 100 or so of the ones I made. I always put the initial edge on the blades with my Knife Grinder with a 600-1200 grit belt then finished it with a Wa****a Stone then Arkansas. Now I'd use my Worksharp as it does what is needed in a minute or so, versus 30 minutes or so.

Randy