tried looking up a few parts today and found all the screws are wrong except the butt plate screws,the gun will shoot but you have to hold the trigger forward while you pull the hammer back and it has light firing pin strikes,so im sure it needs a trigger spring and main spring,i did get to see pics of screws and springs but everybody was out of stock
Put this up on the single shot forum, too.
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the issues with the trigger and light strikes could also be a result of the screws being used.
Nozombies.com Practical Zombie Survival
Collecting .32 molds. Please let me know if you have one you don't need, cause I might "need" it!
very possible,im sure theyre not shouldered as they should be
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FWIW, the only Savage/Stevens falling block rifle was the Model 44-1/2 - all the rest are swinging block actions, with the pivot ahead of the rear end of the barrel/chamber.
Jack First has the action & trigger guard screws you need: https://jack-first-gun-parts.myshopi...4-1-2-22-rifle
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Last edited by Pressman; 10-14-2018 at 09:59 AM. Reason: Links to eBay are a no no
Now I lay me down to sleep
A gun beside me is what I keep
If I awake, and you're inside
The coroner's van is your next ride
Many times Numrich will have parts like these.
Phil
Just had one of these in the shop last week, Stevens 14 &1/2 .Trigger guard is just a bent piece of sheet metal.
thanks screws and springs should work,trigger guard looks to long bolt hole to bolt hole but i hit the seller up,thanks again
Shouldn't be too hard to make the parts for that.
7 screws and 3 springs cost almost as much as the gun is worth,but i guess when the guns are not for sale it doesnt matter,thanks everybody for the help
got everything ordered,so i guess ill go ready some of these stickies about stock refinishing,im sure not a wood worker
It's just not that hard...…………………………..
Get yourself a can (from HomeCheapo, WallyWorld, or a good hardware store) of Formby's furniture Refinisher & some OOOO steel wool pads.
Follow the directions on the can, and let the wood dry overnite.
After the wood's dry, apply a few coats of paste wax, and you should have a finish that looks fairly close to what the rifle had when new.
Of course, (if you want) dents/cracks/gouges (aka: character marks) should be taken care of between the stripping & the waxing.
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Now I lay me down to sleep
A gun beside me is what I keep
If I awake, and you're inside
The coroner's van is your next ride
Plus 1 for the Formby's
Regards
John
got the gun torn down and parts order on the 8th and received them today,thanks to jack first,going to redo the stock and fore arm using the roger method sticky,then on to redoing the metal parts,i think id like to do the browning finish,any info on that would be appreciated,i looked for a sticky on it
love to see in-progress photos, and, of course, the finished product.
Wood dents if not to deep are easily raised with a wet rag under a hot iron. Steam them out.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |