Mould Lube

[Castnshoot]

What is that lube that you can get at the auto section to lube between the mould and sprue plate? I want to get Bullshop, but while I get that, I want to start casting now.

[adam38654]

Since it is supposed to be high temp. that leads me to believe they are talking about the copper colored bolt anti seize lube. Wouldn't be to nice if it gets in your cavities though. I would just use a regular wax based bullet lube as they will just flux with the lead.

[mooman76]

I used WD40 before I got bull lube. If it gets in the cavities, it's no big deal. It's dries and I use it for a mould release anyway.

[Dale53]

I have tried a number of bullet mould lubricants and was NEVER satisfied until I started using BullShop's Sprue Plate lube. Everything else "burnt on" and was NOT satisfactory.

ONLY Bullshop's sprue plate lube for me!

Dale53

[DLCTEX]

+1 with Dale 53, I did not like the carbon baked on my molds. I would probably just not lube until the Bullplate arrives. DALE

[Castnshoot]

Is it a big deal if I don't lube until I get it?

[shooting on a shoestring]

I use Dri Slide. Its a moly based lube floating in an evaporating solvent. You shake the can to suspend the moly, apply, the solvent carries it over the surfaces and evaporates leaving the dry lube coating.

You can run without lube if you let the sprue harden up good before you cut it.

[HCL]

+2 ONLY Bullshop's sprue plate lube for me!

Used to use a dab of boolit lube, no more.
Mike

[Bassleg]

Carnauba wax is what you get from the auto parts store.

[jahela]

Pencil. Both surfaces well coated.

[EDK]

+1 with Dale 53, I did not like the carbon baked on my molds. I would probably just not lube until the Bullplate arrives. DALE

+1 with a bunch of others on waiting for the Bullplate. We use the copper anti seize at work and I wouldn't get it even close to a mould! The nickle based s--- is bad news too. You can live without Bullplate a lot easier than having to get the anti-seize out of places you don't want it to be!

Don't get the Bullplate in the cavities either. It is some tenacious stuff!

[randyrat]

I used to use the brand "permatex" anti sieze, the high temp stuff. I never put it on the bottom of the sprue plate though, i only put it in the sprue plate screw hole and alignment pins. Use brake cleaner if you get it in the cavities and wipe with cue tips it will come out. I brag that Bullplate sprue plate lube up every chance i get, it's made casting SOOOOOOOOO much easier for me. Just don't put too much on it is TENACIOUS stuff. I think they lubed the space shuttle with it LOL.

[montana_charlie]

What is that lube that you can get at the auto section to lube between the mould and sprue plate?

Spray-on graphite (everywhere except faces and cavity) does it for me...
CM

[jonk]

Well personally I've never found that:
1. Bullplate removes streaking on the sprue.
2. Streaking is a problem.
3. I see a whit worth of difference between lubing and not lubing the sprue cutter.

However I have found that
4. It is very easy to contaminate the cavity when lubing the sprue cutter, bullplate or otherwise.

I do like bullplate for lubing the hinge bolt, sprue bolt, and on SOME sticky molds, the alignment pins and do not question the good results others have gotten. I'm also quite pleased with speed green which uses the bullplate lube.

Just saying you can cast without it.

[John Boy]

Permatex Anti Sieve ... works just fine for lubing pins - bottom of sprue plate and sprue holes on the plate. The 1 oz tube lasts a lifetime
http://www.permatex.com/documents/td...tive/80078.pdf

[Uncle Jefro]

Howdy, so far I've been using two Lee 6 cavity molds. I smoked them with oak and used bullet lube to lube with. The directions were a little fuzzy about exactly what to lube, just said don't get lube in cavities. I did a couple of searches but couldn't find detailed specifics. So I lubed everything except the cavities and the face the cavities are cut in. Is that correct??? So far so good, no problem yet. I made sure to lube the hinge bolt, sprue bolt, and the alignment pins good, with just barely a light film on the sprue plate. I will be getting some bullplate soon. Exactly what is the proper way to lube a mold??

Thanks,
Uncle Jefro

[randyrat]

Well personally I've never found that:
1. Bullplate removes streaking on the sprue.
2. Streaking is a problem.
3. I see a whit worth of difference between lubing and not lubing the sprue cutter.

However I have found that
4. It is very easy to contaminate the cavity when lubing the sprue cutter, bullplate or otherwise.

I do like bullplate for lubing the hinge bolt, sprue bolt, and on SOME sticky molds, the alignment pins and do not question the good results others have gotten. I'm also quite pleased with speed green which uses the bullplate lube.

Just saying you can cast without it.

I don't understand your saying we are fools for using this and we are just dreaming this stuff up?

[randyrat]

I'm already sorry for being sharp about this, but it has made my casting much easier and i think the stuff works great. One big difference is i trained a couple guys in on casting and sure enough they would cut the sprue too early (smear) and the other extreem they would try to bang my molds to hell with cold molds. I would spend too much time cleaning molds before this stuff came around.

[JohnH]

Permatex Anti Sieve ... works just fine for lubing pins - bottom of sprue plate and sprue holes on the plate. The 1 oz tube lasts a lifetime
http://www.permatex.com/documents/td...tive/80078.pdf

Anti Sieze...Not calling you out on your spelling, I'm terrible at it too; However, this is the stuff. I use a Q'tip to apply it.

[Dale53]

Prior to buying Bullshop's Sprue Plate Lube I had tried about every lube anybody has suggested with less than stellar results. Mostly, the lube "burns on" and won't let the mould close completely. It is dickens to clean off without damaging the mould.

Here is my method of using Bullshop's Sprue Plate Lube:

1- I shake the bottle.
2 - I remove the cap.
3 -I use ONLY the lube that is left sticking to the inside of the cap.
4 - I take a clean q-tip and wet it with the lube in the cap (ONLY). This is a
very small amount of lube. I only do this AFTER the mould is up to casting
heat.
5 - I cut the sprue, leaving the bullets in the mould.
6 - I rub the que-tip over the top of the mould avoiding the bullet bases. I
immediately use the clean, dry, end and remove most of the lube leaving
just a film. Don't try to get it dry, you just want to remove excess.
7 - I rub the WET quetip over the top AND bottom of the sprue plate and
immediately rub it off with the other end of the que-tip.
8 - I stick the wet end of the quetip into each of the alighnment pin holes and
also wipe over the pins.

9 - Right after you wet the que-tip, put the cap on the bottle (you do NOT want to knock the bottle over). A couple of bottles, used the way I suggest will probably last you years.

All of the above takes maybe two minutes, max. I typcially can run a pot of
alloy in about 1½ hours. If I do a second pot, I do it again. This leaves a VERY thin film over the critical mould surfaces and does NOT cause problems.

If I cut one early, the lead wipes off. I normally watch the sprue, when it changes color I wait six seconds then cut the sprue. If I am using any mould (no more than four cavities) I cut the sprue with my gloved hands after the mould is up to casting temperature. I get much nicer bases as a result. Lead build up on the top of an aluminum mould can ruin the mould in one session. My moulds show NO wear on the top. I use this on iron moulds as well.

All moulds need lubrication but with aluminum it is critical.

This is not the only way, I am sure, but I have cast thousands of bullets using this method and I am, FINALLY, satisfied with my mould lubricant and this system for good production of match quality bullets (the only kind that I am interested in).

Dale53