Need a beeswax/? bullet lube mix for a Collator Lube Sizer (Ballisti-Cast Machine). Nothing sticky please. I have access to large
amounts of beeswax. Thanks
Need a beeswax/? bullet lube mix for a Collator Lube Sizer (Ballisti-Cast Machine). Nothing sticky please. I have access to large
amounts of beeswax. Thanks
You might want to start here :
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...s-Lube-recipes
sparky54: Four parts olive oil, five parts bee's wax by volume. Gp Edit: Double boiler melt and mix.
Three parts beeswax, good for those with a lot of beeswax on hand.
One part lithium grease ( Lucas Red-N-Tacky) any lithium grease will work.
Depending on the beeswax, if you find this mix too soft/tacky, add one part Paraffin Wax (Gulf Household Paraffin Wax) to harden it up, check consistency before adding more paraffin .
I started using this in 1978 and it meets all my cast boolit shooting needs.
Gary
Last edited by gwpercle; 03-10-2018 at 02:31 PM.
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Many of the hard lubes that commercial cast bullet manufacturers use is little more than Wax with a bit of oil and a bit of dye. Generally hard lubes aren't great boolit lubes, But most anything will work fine for handgun boolits meant for shooting at typical short pistol shooting distances...and that's why commercial cast bullet manufacturers can get by using it. I have even heard of other casters claiming they just use melted crayon's as a boolit lube. If Beeswax wouldn't get hard/brittle and possibly crack/fall out of the grooves during handling, you could probably use straight beeswax as a boolit lube.
5 years ago, I got some Lube from "357Maximum" (AKA: Mike), it was a version he called MML+soap. It needed a heated lubesizer to apply, and stayed in the grooves quite well, and worked well in the gun. The recipe below is one he used prior to the the version he sent me, but just looking at the recipe, it's just a bit of oil and over 90% beeswax. It should be hard and yet flexible enough to not crack during handling or if you are loading on a progressive press with a boolit feeder.
I don't know why the orange oil is in there? I probably wouldn't use that...and I would use anhydrous Lanolin...and I'd also use 1/2 lb of paraffin wax and subtract 1/2 lb of beeswax...and you could probably substitute another oil for the Jojoba...like Castor bean oil or 2 cycle engine oil.
Mike's Magic Mystery Lube
5 Lbs Beeswax
1 Tbsp Ivory soap (grated)
1 Tbsp Jojoba oil
1 Tbsp Orange Oil
1 Tbsp Johnson's Paste Wax
1 Tbsp Liquid Lanolin (hydrous)
> Melt wax and thoroughly Mix
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
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I need to give Larry G. credit for sharing the lube formula with me. I've made two batches and use it for BP and pistol rounds. For rifle, I'm sold on White Label BAC. Gp
If it is not for BP .Then I make my own of the old NRA lube with ATF and I can make as hard or soft I like it and it works for me on all my shooting of handgun and rifle.
Life Member of NRA,NTA,DAV ,ITA. Also member of FTA,CBA
Go to the lube recipes and pick one. They all work good in one thing or another. If pistols, about anything will work. Riffles need a bit more and i prefer a softer or stickier lube. You can always tumble lube them and incase them in a non-sticky hard shell.
"Speak softly and carry a big stick; you will go far."
~Theodore Roosevelt~
RC, you and others say anything will work in pistols, but I have found that to not be the case with my ruger SBH hunter with a 7.5" barrel, is that because the length of barrel the lube has to last through, orr the velocity, or both? I have been experimenting, I tried pure carn. red, and got leading, I also have a homemade moly lube that works well, but is a bit soft, so I have been experimenting with mixing the moly lube with the red carn, have yet to find the perfect match so far, but I believe it is somewere in the ration of the carnauba and moly, when I get a replacement screw for my grip frame, I will try 1/4th to 1/3rd red carn. with the rest being the moly lube. as it warms up I have found the moly lube to be way too soft, it goes everywere in my sizer, more lube goes under the boolit than in the groove, no matter how I adjust it, so a harder lube is definetly called for! I will let you guys know how it goes.
An armed man in a citizen.
An unarmed man is a subject.
A disarmed man is a slave.
Travis, I also have a 7.5" SBH Hunter. Up to about 1250 fps, I use 45/45/10 with no leading.
I haven't yet gone any faster....
40% bees wax 60% hard paraffin. Yes you do need a heater.
QUIS CUSTODIET IPSOS CUSTODES?
Olive oil, tallow, come to mind.
swamp
There is no problem so great, that it cannot be solved by the proper application of high explosives.
I like STP in my lube. They say that adding carnauba gives the bore a shine. That would mean it leaves a thin coating behind which is a good thing. I would soften the beeswax if desired, with something like STP smoke stopper or ATF and harden it if desired, with candelilla wax. Something like that.
And don't forget castor oil.
Rest In Peace My Son (01/06/1986 - 14/01/2014)
''Assume everything that moves is a human before identifying as otherwise''
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |