Can the TC-K6 thermocouple be mounted in the bottom of the pot? Immersed in lead?
It has 1/4-20 threads.
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...&products_id=2
Can the TC-K6 thermocouple be mounted in the bottom of the pot? Immersed in lead?
It has 1/4-20 threads.
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...&products_id=2
It's not designed for that application. Weld a nut to the bottom of the pot and screw it into it so the TC bottoms out against the base of the pot
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Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
I haven't investigated the bottom of the Lee pot for a bottom mounted TC, but I would think it would be thin enough for mounting via a "through hole", with a nut on the inside.
I wouldn't trust any JB weld or epoxy, unless it was rated for 1000º F continuous.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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You would need a well if your gonna drill thru the bottom as it will always leak.
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Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
A copper washer under the nut on the inside of the pot may possibly
be leak proof/resistant. ???
I do think that the best would be a fixed tube/well in/alongside the inside wall of the
pot into which one inserts (a long enough) TC will be the best setup. That is what I
plan on now that I have my PID built. Too cold right now on my casting bench in the garage to try it out.
beltfed/arnie
Why not just use a ‘washer style’ TC under the nut that screws onto the bottom pour spout on the inside between the inner and outer shells of the pot? By doing that, the only drilling would be on the ‘outer’ shell without the worry of leakage. Of course you would first need to disassemble the pot in order to do that.
Late to the party, but I plan to test mine this weekend. New Lee pot, lined it with thin "furnace paper" hi temp insulation around the putter walls and bottom. Paid built and ready to go. Haven't bottom poured on over 30 years, so that will be new too! My TC will be in the lead at this point, didnt want to go to the trouble of making the well when a 100mm TC was 8$. Thanks for all the info on this thread, saved me some missteps!
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Will this group of parts work. so confused after reading some 20 pages!https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Tempe...KB6Y4JDH70G5ZH
That will work but you can find it quite a bit cheaper on Ebay. You might want to get a K type (6" long) thermocouple too. The Inkbird reads only in celcius. The Mypin units can read in either C or F. Look up Barley and Hops Brewing on YouTube. He has a lot of really good videos on building, wiring, and setting PID's. He has separate video sets for Mypin and Inkbird units.
Do you want fries with that?
I wish someone made a ready to use PID controller in a project box.
I don't feel comfortable enough to do it myself.
Thanks
A member here by the name of HATCH sells them.
Here is a link to his page: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-setup-UPDATE!
Last edited by Camper64; 06-13-2019 at 08:43 AM.
WHAT WOULD YOU CHARGE ME TO MAKE ME A pid UNIT AS THE ONE YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT
Based on having read too many pages to keep it all straight, a little clarification is needed. I did not have enough cable to use from the female thermocouple connector I mounted on the box to the PID, so I used the closest gauge copper wire I had on hand. It is reading and working but do not at the moment had a thermometer to use for comparison.
Have I committed a Bozo No-No by not using Type K specific wire? And if I did, where can I get just 12" of appropriate cable/wire?
Last edited by oley55; 08-16-2020 at 09:10 PM.
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Mike
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