If I was ordering a Master Caster and planned to automate it, then I would order it this way.
XXX volt Master Caster, Subtract thermostat, ADD thermocouple.
here is a thread when I ordered my replacement -> http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-Caster-Option
You need to read over this thread -> http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-Master-Caster
The changes are simple - No spring is needed and the 5 inch movement air cylinder has been changed to double acting.
Lead pour parts
Movement parts1 – 91251A370, 5/16-24 x 3” SHCS, $7.02 (for mounting 1/2” stroke cylinder to lead valve)
1 – 6498K195, SST air cylinder, 3/4” bore-1/2” stroke, spring return, nose mount, $18.02 (AD-A12005SN $12)
1 – 6498K42, rod clevis for 3/4" bore, $4.08
1 – 4501K72, 1/4" SCH40 brass pipe, 12”L, $8.88 (for 1/2” stroke cylinder stand off)
Air parts $1201 – 6071K12, forged clevis end, 1/4-28, $4.98
1 – 8975K483, 6061 aluminum bar, 5/8 x 1-1/4 x 12” long, $9.31 (for nose mount cylinders, stand off and pivot) -not needed if you buy the rear bracket from me
1 – 6498K637, SST air cylinder, 3/4” bore-5” stroke, double acting, nose mount, $39.50 (AD- A12050DN $22)
2 – 97345A578, SST 5/16 x 1/2”L shoulder x ¼-20 shoulder screws, $3.54ea (for 5” stroke cylinder) - not needed if you buy the rear bracket from me
The above Air parts list is a SUGGESTED list. I removed the Air regulator because it was discontinued.2 – 62005K333, flow control valve, 3/8-3/8” tube, $27.70 - goes between movement air valves and air cylinder
10 – 5112K65, nylon tubing, 3/8” OD, $0.77/ft
2 – 5779K157, tube swivel, 1/8" MIPS-3/8” tube, $5.10ea - 1 for lead pour, 1 for movement (under pot)
1- 5779k115, Push-to-Connect Tube Fitting for Air, Straight Adapter, for 3/8" Tube OD x 1/8 NPT Male - for rear movement air cylinder
2 - 5779K36 , Push-to-Connect Tube Fitting for Air, Tee Connector, for 3/8" Tube OD , $6.60 ea - to feed air valves
5 - 5779k116, Push-to-Connect Tube Fitting for Air, Straight Adapter, for 3/8" Tube OD x 1/4 NPT Male
1 - 5779K158, Push-to-Connect Tube Fitting for Air, 90 Degree Swivel Elbow, for 3/8" Tube OD x 1/4 NPT Male
I will post a picture of the layout in a week and update this post
LOOK BELOW FOR ALTERNATE CHEAPER SOURCE
Now modifications to the MC
Rear bracket
You need to verify measurements because each machine is different.
The above pictures have brackets that were made specifically for a particular machine as there is no washers between frame and bracket.
The opening between the frame should be around 5 inches. I say "should be" because these frames are all castings and there is some differences.
I would make the bracket 4.5 inches wide. This allows adjustment via washers to move it side to side. You can make it exact provided you make exact measurements.
The based on a 4.5 width bracket, the bracket is drilled 2.5 inches from one side and tapped 5/8-18 NF. This is for the movement air cylinder. This hole is off-centered because again each machine is different and it allows for adjustment. You can take measurements on your machine and get it exact.
The ends of the bracket are drilled and tapped 5/16 standard. I would do this 1/2 inch from the top of the bracket. Make the depth 1 inch and thread it as far as the tap allows.
2 x 5/16 holes on either side of the frame for the rear bracket
The 5/16 drilled pivot is 2.075" from the absolute back of the MC and 2.900" down from the machined top of the aluminum where the pot sits...both sides...confirm this...this places the 5" stroke cylinder with about 1/4" of extension and contraction remaining in the stroke...important...
Lead pour bracket
I personally use a piece of flat bar alum that is 1/8 thick
You drill and tap 2 holes that are EXISTING in the lead pour bracket. These are the 2 holes that aren't being used.
You tap them 5/16 x 24 (FINE THREAD) because there isn't a lot of theading area and you want to get a good mechanical bound.
Buy the drill bit and tap from here -> https://www.amazon.com/DRILL-BIT-SET.../dp/B01LZZ7OX1
This plate has 3 drilled holes. Two are for the mounting bolts and one is for the lead pour air cylinder.
The easiest way to mark the plate is to lay the factory lead pour bracket down on top of it.
You mark the 2 holes that your drilled and tapped earlier and then you have a hole under the spring that you mark.
The hole for the air cylinder is a 1/2 inch
You will need to also drill a hole in the lead pour lever. I do this after I have mounted all the lead pour stuff so I get it in the correct spot.
Limit switch mounting
Picture of switch provided
I am working on providing a mount for it but here are some pictures of others mounting
What I would do is like the 2nd picture.
Put a piece of metal on the arm stop.
Then mount the limit switch on a L bracket
The arm from the limit switch can be bent to make adjustments