Chrono help

[swheeler]

I'm pretty sure I saw on here where someone was using LED lights hooked to the sky screens on his chronograph for indoor, or low light shooting, said it worked great?

[vzerone]

http://www.competitionelectronics.co...ghting-system/

They say they have to be infrared LED's.

[swheeler]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BAleLVbFmh0

[fredj338]

You do understand that most chronos are designed to use the sunlight to provide the shadow for the skyscreen to read? You need special skyscreens for indoor readings. The Labdar units do NOT use skyscreens & can be used in any light. Really good units nut expensive.

[vzerone]

You do understand that most chronos are designed to use the sunlight to provide the shadow for the skyscreen to read? You need special skyscreens for indoor readings. The Labdar units do NOT use skyscreens & can be used in any light. Really good units nut expensive.

Yup they are designed for infrared light. That doesn't mean they don't work at all with another source.

[Drew P]

I'm pretty sure I saw on here where someone was using LED lights hooked to the sky screens on his chronograph for indoor, or low light shooting, said it worked great?

THere are several ways to use leds and in their basic function they are all DC and smooth light that I’d guess is ideal for anything like these chronos. However, the implementation of them in our homes means they need to be able to use AC power and how they deal with that can happen in different ways. One way is to actually let the polarity reverse 60 times a second. This is not great and means the lamp is lit 1/2 the time, as it turns on and off. at 60hz you can almost not detect it as a human eye. However they do “flicker” a little. Now, to a photo type equipment like a chronograph well heck I can see it being a big problem. Now, I know my shop led lights are not flickering like that, but I don’t know exactly what they look like to a chronograph.

However, my previous testing with this was in all conditions, mostly outdoors, varying ranges and ya know, if you are so doubtful of the equipment readings then it really makes it a useless tool even if it is correct 50% of the time. I need to be able to use it, once, for one shot and have an expected and reliable reading. If it can’t do that then it’s really just a waste of plastic and time to me. But, I’m not giving up just yet. It’s just weird because when something works intermittently I can usually figure out some sort of pattern and that leads to discussion and solutions or at least work-arounds. But this tool has left me just stumped. I’ll play with it this weekend outside if I get a chance.

Hey the company told me that shots in the (?) portion of the shooting window would produce the best results but I forgot where he said to focus shots. I think it was in the lower 1/2 of the window, nearer to the unit (carefu!) Can anyone verify this?

[Mal Paso]

Light reflected from the ground can sometimes cancel the bullet shadow from the skyscreen. Dillan reloading suggests a dark blanket spread on the ground under the chronograph.

I took it a step further putting 2 sheets of black plastic against the skyscreen wires. Worked in almost any light.

Bullwolf put 2 Amazon battery LEDs on his screens with great success. Post #20 https://www.google.com/url?q=http://...DjWIy50CvcruBj

[Drew P]

Also, I’ll add that the reason I chose this model was it was the cheapest chronograph available. I was able to shake 90$ free for the tool. Much more than that and I’d probably be ******** about not having a chrono instead of how crappy the cheap chrono I have is. So, maybe I deserve it. I figured if it does it tells me the speed that seems all I need. And actually the app is pretty nice. Anyway just mentioning the reason I selected this one instead of another’s more expensive unit.

[vzerone]

THere are several ways to use leds and in their basic function they are all DC and smooth light that I’d guess is ideal for anything like these chronos. However, the implementation of them in our homes means they need to be able to use AC power and how they deal with that can happen in different ways. One way is to actually let the polarity reverse 60 times a second. This is not great and means the lamp is lit 1/2 the time, as it turns on and off. at 60hz you can almost not detect it as a human eye. However they do “flicker” a little. Now, to a photo type equipment like a chronograph well heck I can see it being a big problem. Now, I know my shop led lights are not flickering like that, but I don’t know exactly what they look like to a chronograph.

However, my previous testing with this was in all conditions, mostly outdoors, varying ranges and ya know, if you are so doubtful of the equipment readings then it really makes it a useless tool even if it is correct 50% of the time. I need to be able to use it, once, for one shot and have an expected and reliable reading. If it can’t do that then it’s really just a waste of plastic and time to me. But, I’m not giving up just yet. It’s just weird because when something works intermittently I can usually figure out some sort of pattern and that leads to discussion and solutions or at least work-arounds. But this tool has left me just stumped. I’ll play with it this weekend outside if I get a chance.

Hey the company told me that shots in the (?) portion of the shooting window would produce the best results but I forgot where he said to focus shots. I think it was in the lower 1/2 of the window, nearer to the unit (carefu!) Can anyone verify this?

The infrared light kit from Competition Electronic has an adaptor that changed the AC current into 24 Volts DC so the AC cycling doesn't affect it. They also tell you that you can wire two 12 Volt batterys together to operate it.

[Drew P]

Light reflected from the ground can sometimes cancel the bullet shadow from the skyscreen. Dillan reloading suggests a dark blanket spread on the ground under the chronograph.

I took it a step further putting 2 sheets of black plastic against the skyscreen wires. Worked in almost any light.

Bullwolf put 2 Amazon battery LEDs on his screens with great success. Post #20 https://www.google.com/url?q=http://...DjWIy50CvcruBj

that makes a lot of sense. I may try that. Takes portability and setup time down a notch tho

[JBinMN]

Source:http://www.btibrands.com/wp-content/...structions.pdf

From the Operation page(5/8):

2. Position the unit 10 to 15 feet in front of the muzzle of a firearm or
if using with a bow, at least one full arrow length in front

3. Align the Chronograph:
a. Height, so that the projectile travels through the center
of the shooting window
b. Tilt Angle, so projectile travels parallel to the top surface of the housing
c. Left/Right, so that projectile is in line with housing

From the Tips page(7/8):

1. Understand the flight of your bullet
will be lower than your sight picture.
Most scopes are mounted 1.5” higher
than the centerline of the barrel.
Always aim higher than the middle of
the shooting area.
[Note: There is a pic to the right on the page that shows the "window" described above]

2. Avoid low light conditions, such
sunrise and sunset. During these
times the extreme low angle of the sun
can cause added variation due to
reflections and low levels of light. Use
of optional light kit will improve
function in these conditions.

G'Luck!

[Larry Gibson]

Again, when you set it up how far from the muzzle is the start screen?

Your errant readings in 1st post sound like muzzle blast interference.

[nitroviking]

I'd never heard of the Lab Radar before seeing the posts about it here, so I just did a quick search on it..... Never before have I been so tempted to spend $500 that I cant really afford than right now, I'm putting that on the must have list for sure. Very nice

[Traffer]

Yup, I believe that the Lab radar technology will eventually take over this industry. In the mean time, some of us can only afford the current cheaper units. (which were nearly science fiction 30 years ago).

[Drew P]

Again, when you set it up how far from the muzzle is the start screen?

Your errant readings in 1st post sound like muzzle blast interference.

ive tried all distances from 10-30’, although thisfirst shot on the new unit was maybe less than 10’

[Larry Gibson]

Ok, if the errent readings also occurred outside I'd suspect something is wrong with the crono and would send it to maker for repair or replacement.

[Messy bear]

Most units work best outside in cloudy or hazy conditions it seems. Take it out and find out for sure. I have used many different brand's but all work outdoors in those conditions IIRC. Hope you get it going cause they are a useful tool.

[Mal Paso]

In overcast conditions some units work better with the sky screens off.

The optical type chronographs uses two photo sensors to start and stop a timer that displays that time as feet per second. They are usually fairly accurate.

We wouldn't have half the problems if we just shot Jacketed Bullets. LOL A lead boolit, polished by the bore, is Shiny Silver, like a mirror and reflects light which sometimes cancels the boolit shadow.

After you eliminate muzzle blast whatever you can do to increase the contrast of the boolit's shadow helps reliability.

[swheeler]

In overcast conditions some units work better with the sky screens off.

The optical type chronographs uses two photo sensors to start and stop a timer that displays that time as feet per second. They are usually fairly accurate.

We wouldn't have half the problems if we just shot Jacketed Bullets. LOL A lead boolit, polished by the bore, is Shiny Silver, like a mirror and reflects light which sometimes cancels the boolit shadow.

After you eliminate muzzle blast whatever you can do to increase the contrast of the boolit's shadow helps reliability.

Drew, from the sounds of this you are going to have to start powder coating!

[JBinMN]

Used my Caldwell Ball. Chrony today in cloudy skies, outdoors & it worked fine. I am thinking that yours is having issues with that indoor lighting.

Please let us know what ya find out.