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Thread: 340 savage 22 hornet removing the barrel band

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Indian trail NC
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    803

    340 savage 22 hornet removing the barrel band

    ?? Has any 1 tried removing the barrel band to free float the barrel for better accuracy
    with only the reciever screw holding down the barrel

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master
    Mk42gunner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Butler, MO
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    9,089
    I had a 340 in .222 Remington that had been restocked with a Bishop walnut stock, no barrel band. It shot allright, I didn't know about the barrel band until after I had shot it for a few months. Since I was satisfied with its performance, I never really looked into putting a barrel band back on it.

    I'm not sure I would go that route with one in .30-30, but your Hornet should work okay. The easy way to find out is to take the connecting screw out and shoot a few groups.

    Robert

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Monticello, KY
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    1,751
    Over the years being in the gunsmithing business, I have refinished several 340's, and their store branded litter mates, most had walnut stocks and customers had them hot blued, stocks refinished. Most of the time, when folks went to this expense, they had sentimental value, a relatives gun, or one a relative had bought them.I removed the barrel band and floated barrel, and glass bedded action and first 3 inches of barrel, using plenty of release agent, and wrapped the barrel nut in cellophane. This gave a solid platform, none ever shot any worse, most of them, accuracy improved. I have seen these rifles in .22 hornet, .222 Rem. and 225 Win. all shoot pretty dang good for cheaper rifle. Hope this helps.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

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    south western pennsylvina
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    Not on a savage 340 !
    But on a Ruger #3 rifle in 22 hornet, I removed the barrel band and it shot better!

  5. #5
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    45
    I have removed the barrel band on a couple Sav 340 style rifles.
    I always weld on a receiver tang on the rear of the action, drill and tap it for same as front receiver screw (I think it is 1/4-28, but don't quote me on that, check it first). I make it so the rear receiver screw lines up with the rear of the trigger guard, so I can use the same screw for both. I get a longer screw, of proper dimension. Then I pillar bed the action in aluminum pillars, then fiberglass the rest of the action and about 2" of barrel. When I am done, I have two receiver screws, and the action is pillar bedded and bedded in fiberglass on other areas. There are also some ways to make a much better scope mount for these, which helps a lot as well.
    It has made a lot of difference in the accuracy of the ones I have done. Depending on your loads, they can be extremely accurate for a little light rifle.
    Done this way, I would not hesitate to do them on a .30-30 or any other chambering that these come in.
    There is a great Sav .340 site which provides instruction on doing this a little different than mine, but with the same basic effect.
    Basic .340 stuff:
    http://leeroysramblings.com/Gun%20Ar..._bolt_act.html

    Gunsmithing the .340 stuff:
    http://leeroysramblings.com/Gun%20Ar...model_340.html

    These rifles are really fun, and can be very accurate. Really a favorite for me, and works well for deer and coyotes, fox, or smaller game.

    Best luck.
    re

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check