having 9mm glock issues had an idea

[DougGuy]

Well, first off, no hundred rounds will have any effect on the throat, and neither will firelapping with fine abrasive. The Glock barrel is through and through tennifer hardened, they soak them in a liquid salt bath at over 1500F so you aren't going to do any amount of wearing on the barrel by the methods mentioned, these barrels are incredibly hard. I had to have carbide reamers custom ground to throat these hardened barrels, and they only get about 10 barrels on them and they are toast. A $300 custom made reamer has chunks torn out of the cutting flutes looks like alligator got hold of it.

If the leade in to the rifling or the edge of the chamber is sharp enough to cut through the coating, I can fix that by reaming the throat. I like a longer throat, with gently tapered freebore and a 1 degree leade in to the rifling, it's the smoothest possible transition from case mouth to bore, as long as your finished diameter does not exceed .358" you will be happy with it.

[308Jeff]

Subscribing

[garym1a2]

I have good results with powder coat and my Glock 19 factory barrel. I have not good results with Hitek. I would not ream out a harden glock barrel to make it work. Buy a cheap lone wolf barrel is a good option.

[9mmsteel]

Dusty Bannister, @ 3:30 & 12:18 Glock 21, .45 cal. was Published Nov. 2013 ""I do not know what caliber that pistol is that is shown in the video""
Must not of watched all the video.? My point was...if whoever reloads a "block" be careful with factory barrels. KABOOM!!!!
With your comment ""which appear as inward formed arches"" in the video FortuneCookie45LC mentions "hills and valleys" to the polygonal barrel, the glocks factory barrel.

Noticed your not commenting on the feed ramp and how the boolit isn't supported. Hmm...Bulge...Reload..KABOOM..!!

Blocks or Glocks $ over priced $ and $ need additional upgrades $ to compete with other manufactures qualities.

Be safe was my point of reply!....also in his video.

[Dusty Bannister]

I try to address only one issue at a time to avoid confusion. The point, my factory barrel rifling is not what is represented in the drawing.

[9mmsteel]

Your confusion is brought on by yourself.


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[rototerrier]

You have the glock polygonal rifling. Trust me when I say that it's not the glock or the rifling that's causing you trouble. It's the hitek coating. Turn your focus away from the gun and barrel.

Something is wrong with your coating. I was never able to get consistent Hitek results and finally gave up on it. 1 coat of PC will work fine. I've also found a bhn of at least 16 also helps. I've had trouble with 9mm and too soft of an alloy. I tried pure range scrap and stick on wheel weights and got a little leading.

What works for me in a glock 19.

1) Alloy is approximately 92-6-2 and I get around 16bhn air cooled. I achieve this mixture by combining Stick on Wheel weights with RotoMetals Super Hard and some tin. It's not exact, but it's what I shoot for using the excel alloy calculator and it tests to the desired hardness.
2) MP 357-125 with lube grooves removed. Final weight 130hp or 135fp.
3) PC with Smokes Red, Blue, Black, White, Green, Yellow or Orange or All Powder Paints Super Durable Black or Powder By The Pound Super Durable Wet Black. All of these work perfectly.
4) Dry Tumble with black Airsoft BB's and bake at PID controlled 400F in Convection Oven for 20 minutes.
5) Water Drop out of the oven. This hardens them up just a little more, but I do it for speed. I don't like to wait around. I get them dried and sized while another batch is in the oven.
6) Size to .358. I've tried both .357 and .358 and found accuracy, for me, was better at .358.
7) I use a noe expander plug to ensure I get consistent case expansion and flaring and eliminates any possibilities of shaving when seating. If you size to .358 you'll want to use his .361x.357 and if you size to .357 then go down one more to the .360x.356. I've also found his expansion plugs are a little too long for 9mm and only use the case expansion portion. I stop just before it flares. I then have a powder thru expander on my powder drop to do the final flare. If you go too deep with the NOE it will bulge the case. NOE is aware and has created a special plug for 380 auto but haven't yet made a special shorter version for 9mm.
8) I seat and crimp in a separate step to also ensure I get no shaving and/or breaking of the coating.
9) My load is 4.0-4.4 of HP38. It's nothing special and certainly not a hot load but it just works.

This also works in my Walther PPQ M2 9mm with true polygonal rifling and works in a Lone Wolf barrel for my glock with conventional rifling. No leading and that's all 3 common types of rifling.

[Drew P]

Interesting. Well I'm trying to get into hitek because I wasn't satisfied with results of tumble
pc and I'm not into spraying either. Somid really like to exhaust all options.

Im happy to see that you differentiate between glock polygonal and true polygonal because glock polygonal is plainly not polygonal at least in my new gen 3 g19. But, I'm still scratching my head as to why the barrel shape would cause such issues?
I'm still experimenting and need to try some suggestions put forth earlier by kind fellows. Dusty banister has gone through a lot of info for me and food for thought.