How can you separate scrap copper and brass bullet jackets After smelting for recycle
How can you separate scrap copper and brass bullet jackets After smelting for recycle
If you are asking how to separate the copper from the brass it's one at a time. Personally, I don't think it's worth the effort. If you are asking how to get rid of the steel jackets a strong magnet.
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I separate the brass and copper jacked bullets before I smelt, the biggest problem is the total metal jacked bullets as they need to be smashed to break the copper jacket.
Just don't hit your thumb with a 4 pound hammer in the process, believe me I know.
I separate the jackets after melting and separate the metal with a magnet. The other ,some look like copper others look like brass. Besides color is there any other way of telling difference. There all discolored from the smelting process. Dumb question but would like to separate in case copper vs brass recycle price has a big difference. Kinda OCD I guess
ALL of the jacket material is brass or gilding metal, or gilding metal-clad steel. Nobody uses pure copper for jackets because it is too expensive. There are a few solid copper bullets made for hunting use in areas having environmental restrictions against lead, but not enough in range scrap to be worth looking for. Settle for the best brass scrap price you can get for your gleaned jackets after pulling out the steel ones with a cow magnet. Given the amount of lead contamination in skimmed jackets anything over $1 per pound is a GREAT price. Trying to sort further is just mental masturbation.
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When copper and brass were paying top prices at the scrap yard, trying to separate jackets was futile. Now that prices have dropped, it is a real waste of energy. Just remove the .04/LB steel and take what ever they offer as lower grade brass.
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I was getting #2 copper price for my scrap jackets. The scrapyard foreman said none of it tested as pure copper so they gave me red brass price for all of it. Still made decent money.
Have been thinking about making a smelter just to do this. Kinda stupid extra effort, but might be fun. Think I could stockpile metals for a rainy day when metal prices are high. Maybe cast some cool objects too.
I get a lot of "dirt" (powdery substance) when I melt down lead from the local indoor range. Do you guys try to separate that out before you take the jackets in?
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I screen with a tray that has this in the bottom;
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant...FcOIswodY9MMpA
It lets the carbon and small bits pass thru but keeps the chunks of busted up jackets.
I actually through mine on the driveway and wash out the dirt. If you do it this way DO NOT THROUGH IN with melted lead. I still end up with a lot of fine dust when done, but that's the nature of the beast.
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If you take anything to the scrapper with dirt or contaminates in it, you'll get a lower price or they won't take it at any price. The secret to profitable scrapping is total separation. In the case of smelting dross, I haven't found anyone willing to even take it. After removing metal such as WW clips it is cooled overnight and bagged for the trash.
I once took 2 5gal buckets of brass plumbing valves to scrap. The attendant explained that disassembly/separation of the valves would have doubled the price. Lesson learned the expensive way.
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BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |