Help With A Pistol

[okshooter]

Got it apart!
Texas, the boiling did not free the cylinder enough to turn but it did soften the crud holding the cylinder pin enough so I could drive it out by tapping the "ears" with a brass drift and small hammer.
bob208, Ballistics et. al. thanks again! Had I not got it, your suggestions were next on the list.

The bore/grooves are heavily rusted as are the chambers. I have all those openings plugged and filled with PB Blaster for a day or two. Any suggestions on heavy rust removal from these places? I've already ran a brass brush but there is much to go. Thanks.

Also, that cylinder pin as a flat milled in it. My disassemble/assembly book does not address this. Does it make a difference whether it is up or down?

[Hellgate]

You should be able to remove the trigger guard and grips. Tap out the mainspring and remove the trigger & bolt screw and spring. Then lift out the trigger/bolt spring, trigger & bolt. Then the hammer screw & hammer. Remember that on a Remington you have to shove the hammer downward to expose the hand to get the hand screw & hand out before you can lift the hammer up & out of the frame. One the gun is "gutless" you may be able to rotate the cylinder or tap the cylinder pin out from the rear or front.

[Harter66]

I was very sceptical about the wonders of Evaporust until I actually tried some on a rust spotted mould . It will of course take any bluing away but it also will pull all of the light rust and lift everything not still of solid iron/steel . I don't know how far it will go towards the white as I was very happy to have the gray patina instead of almost scale . It's water soluble and works until iron saturated .

[Ballistics in Scotland]

In a revolver which doesn't have gain twist rifling like original Colts, lead and abrasive lapping might be the best way of restoring the bore. I haven't used Evaporust, but I have phosphoric acid, the active ingredient of naval jelly, which does a good job of rust removal with a slight satin finish, which is not going to worsen any situation you sound likely to get into with this one. If the external finish on the cylinder is worth saving, you could plug the nipples with toothpicks and fill the chambers with a syringe or dropper. If that amount gets exhausted with rust left, just tip it out and repeat the process.

One advantage of the Remington is that you can get the barrel out, and make a bushing to accurately ream some metal from the inside of the chambers.

[okshooter]

Ballistics in Scotland,
I have one of the tools shown in post #39 of the Cleaning patented breech/ante chamber thread. I wrapped it in steel wool, put it on a piece of rod and used the cordless drill to spin it in the chambers of the cylinder. The chambers cleaned up well after the PB Blaster soak (I had done exactly as you suggested above, i.e. plugged the nipples with round toothpicks and filled the chambers with PB Blaster) and the cylinder is definitely worth saving.. I am still soaking the barrel and the back of the cylinder where the nipple openings are. If the soak and more brushing does not get all the rust I will try some bore paste or start the search for Evaporust. Thanks.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

At the end of the day you are going to enjoy it more than one you just bought off the peg in a gunshop.

[okshooter]

Returned it to the friend today. Looks all ended well! Thanks again to all.