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Thread: Info Requested: 38 S&W SPL Military and Police Revolver

  1. #1
    Boolit Master Bayou52's Avatar
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    Info Requested: 38 S&W SPL Military and Police Revolver

    Guys:

    This revolver was inherited from Dad who passed in 1970. I've had it in storage for the past 47 years. The serial number is C164XXX. It has no worn blue other than the ring on the cylinder. I never knew Dad to have shot it, but he likely did, at least a couple of times. The hammer and trigger are both case hardened.

    Here's the pics:





    I believe Dad would have acquired this revolver in the 50's or early 60's.

    I'm now inclined to take this gun to the range. But, I was wondering:

    1. Is there a data base of serial numbers where I could get a manufacture date?

    2. Did this gun predate the familiar frame size designation (K frame, etc)? The original box only says "Military and Police Revolver".

    3. Any particular reason why it should not be shot?

    Thanks, in advance, for any info!

    Bayou
    Bayou52
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  2. #2
    Boolit Master MarkP's Avatar
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    Pre M 10

  3. #3
    Boolit Master Walkingwolf's Avatar
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    You should refrain from shooting that gun, in fact for your own good you should ship it immediately to me for proper disposal.



  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy Uncle Jimbo's Avatar
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    The "C" prefix on that serial number means it is a Smith & Wesson Model 10 revolver (also known as the .38 Military & Police). The "C" went on guns with the new hammer bock safety. It is a K service frame gun with 5 external screws. Barrel markings are "Smith & Wesson" on the left side and ".38 S&W Special CTG" on the right side. Some had both markings on the left side.

    Look on the crane or yoke of the gun (the part that holds the cylinder when you swing the cylinder out) and the model number should be there.

    I think.

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master Outpost75's Avatar
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    Nice revolver. No reason not to shoot it, but avoid +P loads. A 146-160-grain cast bullet of wheelweight alloy, sized .358 and loaded with 3.5 grains of Bullseye or 4 grains of 231 or HP38 will approximate factory loads and shoot close to the fixed sights.
    The ENEMY is listening.
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  6. #6
    Boolit Master Bayou52's Avatar
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    Thanks so much, Guys, for the info.

    Yes, there's the markings on the left side of the barrel, as Uncle Jimbo noted.

    And there are stampings on the frame where the cylinder closes. It's stamped "2 B" and under that, the numbers "90XXX".

    It doesn't seem to have a frame designation.

    The gun is in super condition and quite tight in all respects. Tighter, in fact, than some of my newer Smiths. So, I'm confident the gun is safe to shoot.

    Since no one remarked that this is a collectible item, perhaps a lifetime is long enough to wait to shoot. Probably don't have another 47 years.....

    Bayou
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  7. #7
    Boolit Master Murphy's Avatar
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    Bayou52,

    You have what appears to be a Pre Model 10 "C Series" (5 Screw) K Frame. The C Series of K frames began in 1948 and ended in 1967. Given the serial number and a bit of Google work, it was built around 1950-1951. Hope this is of some help.

    By the way, a VERY fine specimen and a great heirloom you have there my friend.

    Murphy
    Last edited by Murphy; 02-11-2017 at 09:10 PM.
    If I should depart this life while defending those who cannot defend themselves, then I have died the most honorable of deaths. Marc R. Murphy '2006'.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master Bayou52's Avatar
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    Thanks, Murphy, for your kind words and great research info. That really helps my understanding.

    And thanks Everyone, for all of the comments and info! I now know what this is.

    And I think Dad would be pleased....

    Bayou
    Bayou52
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  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master FergusonTO35's Avatar
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    My 10-5 and 10-10 like 4.3 grains HP-38 and any 150-160 grain boolit I can find. Easy shooting load that shoots to the sights with decent punch.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master Bayou52's Avatar
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    Thanks, Ferguson, for that load data.

    Bayou
    Bayou52
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  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Ok it's got a turn ring. Nothing says it's unfired. No mention of original box.
    Yee Haw! It's a shooter!
    Load it up and enjoy that glorious SA trigger!
    There's none finer.
    That DA will be smooth as butter.
    That fine revolver is from the apex of S&W quality!
    "Time and money don't do you a bit of good until you spend them." - My Dad

  12. #12
    Boolit Master Bayou52's Avatar
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    Thanks, shooting!^^^^^
    Bayou52
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  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Can I have it? Load that beauty up and shoot it. Uncle jumbo seems to be spot-on. A PERFECT heirloom gun as stated.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master Bayou52's Avatar
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    ^^^^Thank you, Sir!^^^^
    Bayou52
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  15. #15
    Boolit Bub
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    You sure have a dandy there, they were designed to shoot lead bollits, and they are fine shooters. Don't shoot any hot loads!

    Joe
    "That's bold talk for a one eyed fat man" Lucky Ned Pepper

  16. #16
    Boolit Master Bayou52's Avatar
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    Thanks, Joe -

    What you say about shooting lead bullets is precisely what is printed on the inside of the top of the box which I also still have. The box mentions that barrel life will be longer with lead bullets.

    I'll have to pick up some lead cast to reload for it.

    I suppose plated would be OK, too.

    I'll use no more than a light to medium, plinking load like others have posted, above.

    This is great info considering at this time just yesterday, I knew virtually nothing about Dad's revolver!

    Thanks -

    Bayou
    Bayou52
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  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master bedbugbilly's Avatar
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    Got the the Smith & Wesson forum - costs nothing to sign up - make similar post. No disrespect to this site, but there are a lot of very knowledgeable collectors over there that can probably provide you with a lot of good info on it. You have a nice revolver there made even more special by the fact that it was your Dad's. All of my Smith's are "vintage" - the earliest I have ia s 1920 mesh K frame M & P Target Model and it gets shot every once in a while. My favorite M & P K frame is my 1952 38 Special with a 5" barrel because it was made the same year I was born. All of mine get a steady diet of my cast reloads.

    Here is the link to the S & W site - post it under the hand ejector section.

    http://smith-wessonforum.com/forum.php

    Good luck and enjoy it - and I hope you'll keep it in the family!

  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master
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    The wide land rifling on Smiths of that vintage was actually specifically intended for the lead bullet. Power levels with standard 38 loads are more than adequate for any intended use so don't worry about not shooting Plus P.

    While not a Smith and Wesson forum, the guys here have given you the right responses on exactly what you asked for and also what you really needed to know.

    Be kind and give the gun a little oil on the wear spots before shooting. There is no good reason to shoot a revolver devoid of lubricant just because everyone else neglects to.

  19. #19
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    I have a rough 1946 Gun similar to yours (you have a much nicer gun) but mine is fine shooter and I have had a lot of fun with it over the years. It is my travel gun, the one that stays in the motel, and which will not trouble me if it gets stuck in a property room for a year or two.
    I have a set of the Thailand made grips on it now.
    _________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.

  20. #20
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    Bayou52,

    IF I had that VERY NICE revolver, I would acquire a bullet mold for a 200 grain or heavier boolit & load it in front of 3.4 grains of Unique & carry it concealed OTB.
    (I load a similar round for my 1960s era S&W .38SPL snubnose revolver & it "collapsed" a 200+ pound feral boar at <10M, that was trying to "have me for lunch" about 8 years ago. = GYD, too.)

    yours, tex

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check