it's a Remington.
your chamber is cut crooked to your barrel.
got one just like it in 8 mauser, if it were in any other chambering I would have re-barreled it long ago.
it's a Remington.
your chamber is cut crooked to your barrel.
got one just like it in 8 mauser, if it were in any other chambering I would have re-barreled it long ago.
Have a good smith re-barrel it with a good barrel.
Use a tight patch to see if there are 'tight' spots anywhere. They need to be lapped out if there are.
If you are a silhouette shooter, I would 'campaign' this rifle for 2 or 3 HARD seasons... That number of rounds might do wonders...
If it were 'my' rifle I might do this...
Get some 'Flitch' polishing compound and using a long Q tip, place some in the barrel just ahead of the chamber. Shoot a reduced load with a long bearing surface bullet. All you care about is the bullet coming out each time. Repeat 4 more times and test... No change = repeat flitch 5 shots.
Don't get any in the chamber area....
If nothing else, you will get it really clean.....
Warning! I reserve this method for guns I have given up on. You can go too far and destroy your barrel. You must have the 'go or blow' attitude to use this method... but it is easier to trade guns....
Many years ago I had a heavy barrel Ruger Target pistol. It shot 6 inch + groups off the bench at 5 yards. My grandfather's temper kicked in to assist me further so I smeared Flitch on the nose of a cartridge and loaded it single shot in the gun and fired. I probably done this 30 times.... I shot at the same target each time and watch the grouping. After 20 shots the impacts started gravitating to the center. When they all started going in the same hole, I quit.
A friend saw it shoot and insisted on buying it....
Stop and think before you do this....
Good Luck, Dale
Just for grins you might try some RN bullets over 4350 powder. Worth a shot haha. Stranger things have happened. Good luck! Those CDLs are great handling/ looking rifles. Best,Thomas.
I have seen two rifles that shot better groups with a limbsaver barrel dampener, it's just a rubber dampener that slides over the end of the barrel. It's a cheap way to crutch one up sometimes.
Maybe a mechanical issue that has been overlooked.
When i worked at an LGS gunsmith shop things like this were head scratchers but usually resolved.
Make sure your scope mount base screws are not being run deep into the receiver at the front receiver ring. I've seen crappy accuracy when the screw was touching the bolt with the bolt closed, affecting harmonics when fired. Touching the offending screws to a grinding wheel taking off one thread fixed it.
Another time on an M70 the striker in the bolt was impeded on free travel so it struck the primer differently with each shot. Some minor stoning took care of it.
The out of square action/barrel/bolt could be there, seen that on even higher end model rifles. Most still shot well though.
But as others mentioned 1.5 MOA isn't a bad thing for a deer/large game rifle.
HTH, 30CF
AS above, but also, I'd try some 220 round nose. One box delivered isn't too costly and you might just find it's a cure. I never would have shot 220's if I hadn't accidentally stumbled across some. They've turned into one of my very best and favorite. Crumpled a #272 (dressed weight) hog and actually did very little meat damage. In & out with what appears to be minor expansion. It's the kind of performance you hope for. DRT ~ clean kill ~ minimal meat loss.
This is what I did with my Winchester M-70 FWT .308 some years ago after fussing with bedding and screws. It just plain worked. The rifle went from a 3 shot 1.5" grouper to under an inch with the same ammo using this simple method. It does open up after the third shot, but it's a light weight barrel and not a heavy target rifle. I can live quite well with it.
If you really want a Remington to shoot small groups, the barrel should be free floating and the bullet seated touching the lands. I've never seen a 700-600-40x that wasn't shot out, that wouldn't shoot under an inch.
I was going to tell you this. A shim with moderate pressure on the barrel about 1 inch back from the tip will change the whip of the barrel when fired. If that changes anything move the shim
back and forth to see if it improves the group. If it does to your liking build a small bed at the best point with glass. I have fixed several that way.
You've got a rifle that will cleanly kill deer to 400 yards. Get your mind out of Benchrest Land and go hunting.
WWJMBD?
In the Land of Oz, we cast with wheel weight and 2% Tin, Man.
[QUOTE=Bigslug;3795316]You've got a rifle that will cleanly kill deer to 400 yards. Get your mind out of Benchrest Land and go hunting.[/QUOTE
I agree! Many a decent gun went to pawn shops because of this thought pattern!!!
Look twice, shoot once.
Generally the problem child gets the most attention ,so if you don't need it right now it's a project .
Use it as a hunting rifle like you intended, at anything like normal hunting ranges a miss wont be because of the accuracy of the rifle.
I read that Carlos Hathcocks issue M70 30-06 shot worse groups than your rifle.Best, Thomas.
Try making a chamber cast. I just did this in my ever troublesome Winchester 94 and I found out the grooves were .3105 and there was no throat (even though this is common for a 30-30). Which is why I was getting 3-6" groups with factory loads and a scope at 50 yards. Perhaps your jacketed bullets are undersized.
Bought the gun used?
Didja ever really clean the hell out of it? Might take you a weekend and a new bottle of Barnes CR10 but I would start there.
Of course, you may have a damaged barrel...
Can probably find another Remington Takeoff barrel on Ebay or Gunbroker for cheap and see. if you got a .308 already, maybe look for a .280rem or Whelen barrel?
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |