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Thread: Parts List for Tubing To Bullet Please

  1. #1
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    Parts List for Tubing To Bullet Please

    I am trying to figure out exactly what is needed to make a bullet from copper tubing, that way I can start saving for the tooling. So far, I know that I will need a press, an auto eject, a jacket making die, a core mold, and a die to make the cores to a uniform weight, a boat tail die, and a 3 die set. I think... Anything else?

    Could you guys help me nail this down, please?

    ETA. For .30 caliber.

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy uncle dino's Avatar
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    A jacket sizing die. The core swage die will be part of 3 die set so you will not need an extra die to set core weights..d

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy Valornor's Avatar
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    That depends....Corbin outlines the process on his website. The low down of it is as follows:

    Cut the tub to length (You want to do this as accurately as possible) so some sort of tubing saw.
    The round over die an punch (This closes one end of the tub)
    A way to anneal the tubing.
    Draw the tubing (assuming you'll need to draw down to diameter)
    If you're really good you can square up the end of the tube. I am not that good and I trim the jacket and then square up the jacket end. To trim the jacket to length you'll want some sort of pinch trim die and punch.

    From their you going in to the normal process of making the bullet. Though you'll likely need a smaller core then a typical jacket, and with that core may come a small core staking punch...

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
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    One other item of note... Depending on the press, it will have an ejection system of its own. Either of the corbin presses/dies are built to eject without any added framework.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy tiger762's Avatar
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    Might want to consider whether the use of 5.7x28 brass is a better route. You can get fired brass for five cents each. Very few reload for it 'cuz so many are terrified from all the Internet BS repeated about it. I doubt you'll get tubing that cheap. Oh, and doing as the Corbins site describes for making jackets from tubing is a LOT of work. It might make sense if you have an endless supply of 5/16" tubing and you're retired.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    The above comment is a good one... If you're in the US and/or have access to plentiful 5.7 brass it doesn't make a lot of sense to do the tubing jackets. I suppose you could make the case for end of the world type events but you can buy a LOT of 5.7 brass for the cost of the tooling to make the jackets and just sit on it.

  7. #7
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    David Corbin also has a die set that will transform 9mm Luger brass into 30 cal jackets. That might be something to consider as well.

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    What about making jackets from copper strips? What's needed for doing that?

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy
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    You're going the wrong way if you're looking for less work...

  10. #10
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    Lol thanks. I'm just trying to get a parts/price list together. BT has a nice set for 1500 or so, Im trying to get the rest of what I need on paper.

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy tiger762's Avatar
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    A blanking die and punch, then one or more draw dies/punches with the longer jackets requiring more draws. Possibly annealing after each time. Doing a final trim to length / square it up. You're looking at five pulls of the handle just to make the jacket :O

    Quote Originally Posted by BlackoutBuilder View Post
    What about making jackets from copper strips? What's needed for doing that?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiger762 View Post
    A blanking die and punch, then one or more draw dies/punches with the longer jackets requiring more draws. Possibly annealing after each time. Doing a final trim to length / square it up. You're looking at five pulls of the handle just to make the jacket :O

    Ok we're not going that route...

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy Valornor's Avatar
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    Lol, but jacket making is so much fun. I think you're really missing by not starting from strip *sarcasm*

    I second the using 5.7 brass, or I believe you could also use .30 Carbine. The one thing I might caution is that brass is a harder material then copper and potentially could wear the barrel more then a copper jacket. Might not be an issue in 30-06 where velocity isn't screaming but if you're looking to loads these in 300 Win mag or that class of cartridge it might be something to think about. You also might not make enough bullets or shoot enough to notice the difference.

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy
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    Wise choice I mean, it's great to have the tooling if you want to be prepared for any eventuality but for just making some bullets, it's a lot of work. Cartridge brass is a LOT softer than the steel in your barrels, I doubt that's ever going to be an issue. Technically bullet jackets are a kind of brass as well. They just have a lot less zinc in them.

    For bang for the buck it is really tough to beat turning cartridges into bullets. Sierra, Berger, Hines Tactical, Dave Corbin all sell jackets but those tend to be considerably more than the 5 cents a case you can get 5.7 for.

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    So, I need a 3 die set, plus a jacket reduction die? Like a JRD-2 ?
    Would 9mm or 5.7 be better for making into a 30 caliber?

    How should I go about annealing the jackets?

    Sorry, this is a little confusing.

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy Valornor's Avatar
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    Annealing jackets or brass is pretty simple. I usually heat mine up to where I can just barely see the red and drop them into a bucket of water. This is probably overkill, but it ensures everything is dead soft.

    I would think it would be easier to make 5.7 into .30 cal jackets. However 9mm is far more common and cheaper to get. You may need to take it down to diameter in two step rather then one.

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    http://www.swagedies.com/mm5/merchan..._Code=Specials

    With a BT or Blackmon 3 die set. Anything else?

    Do I have to get a Corbin press, or can I get a LEE Classic or similar?

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy tiger762's Avatar
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    Keep in mind that is a die for the Corbin hydraulic press. I have a brass casing reducer die to take 45acp/308win casings down to 0.455" to be used as jackets for 0.458". I end up reducing the rim diameter, then readjust the die, then reduce the body of the casing. The leverage available with the RCE has too short a stroke to cover the full 0.9". This is just to reduce 0.473" to 0.455". I suspect 9mm (0.394") down to something suitable for 30cal (approx 0.305") will require two if not three dies, maybe with an annealing in there somewhere.

    Just use 5.7x28 brass and call it a day.

    Quote Originally Posted by BlackoutBuilder View Post
    http://www.swagedies.com/mm5/merchan..._Code=Specials

    With a BT or Blackmon 3 die set. Anything else?

    Do I have to get a Corbin press, or can I get a LEE Classic or similar?

  19. #19
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    Will this set work with the converted 9mm?

    http://www.swagedies.com/mm5/merchan...ry_Code=SSWAGE

    I'm just confused at this point.


    ETA we posted at the same time. I didnt see any dies for 5.7 to 308. Just the 9mm.
    Last edited by BlackoutBuilder; 01-13-2017 at 08:04 PM.

  20. #20
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    I am completely lost...

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
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GC Gas Check