You are welcome!
You are welcome!
Boolits !!!!! Does that mean what I think it do? It do!
Are those bottles ok to store acetone in?
I'm looking for mason jar lids that are acetone safe and air tight. Currently use empty nail poilish remover bottles with a syringe with a long tip. Very easy to measure in 1ml increments.
I used mason jar's originally and do not recommend them. Part of my color contamination issue was the acetone breaking down the seal on the lid. After a few months it froze completely and I tossed the jar out. Here's exactly how we got the bottles (per recommendation here).
Go to beauty salon supply store (we used Sally's beauty supply)
Asked for squirt bottles suitable to hold hair dye chemicals
Bought the thickest version they had, there were a few different styles.
They have measurements on the side in 10ml iirc, and a squirt top bottle with a cap that seals. So far so good, I'll leave it in there until I use up the batch and let you know if I see any deterioration. For now, my zombie green is back to green again! At a 1.99 per bottle, I can easily replace them if needed, and I can have separate bottles for each color.
Because of a discussion I have been having by PM and because I was having trouble posting these on the PM I will post here.
This is a failed smash test.
This is a smash test that had some dusting. Bullets shot fine with no leading.
This is the way I want all of my smash test to look.
All three done at third coat.
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
Did you detemine the cause of the first 2 failures? I've only seen flaking like that on one of batches and just assumed I goofed something up and remelted them. Other than that, my only issue is burning the pigment by overcooking. As long as it still functions and doesn't lead I'll just chalk that up to personal error and move on.
Because of a discussion I have been having by PM and because I was having trouble posting these on the PM I will post here.
This is a failed smash test.
This is a smash test that had some dusting. Bullets shot fine with no leading.
This is the way I want all of my smash test to look.
All three done at third coat.
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
The first one was done back in 2014. Probably learning curve was the cause. The middle one was done in 2015. I shoot all of my bullets that just give a little dusting on smash test since I have never had any leading from them. Third one was done last week. I still have about 100 of the 2014 bullets and i think I'll load and shoot some to see how bad they lead. Got plenty of Chore Boy.
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
Yeah I shoot the ones with just a dusting, since I'm usually hammering on concrete and barely notice it. I shoot mainly lower pressure rounds though. As I understand it 9mm is one of the most difficult to cast for and get success with accuracy and no leading. I'd like to give it another shot once I get a proper expander die and free up some time.
Thanks for the info and pictures.
It's funny you should mention that. Have been discussing a problem with someone shooting 9 mil. I think it's that high pressure acting on a small surface thing. Have a similar problem shooting .223 in rifle. I use 18-21 BHN in .223. I think that Ausglock shoots a high BHN alloy in the 9 mil. You have to have a certain amount of pressure with those semi autos to make them work. So there is no getting around that. But I believe there are quite a few guys on here shooting Hi Tek coated 9 mil. No reason you can't get there.
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
Coated works in 9mm, 38Super, 357Sig at Major power factor loads with zero issues. Just use 2,6,92 alloy. Easy.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
The coating part I had no issues with. It was getting the 9mm cast loaded without swaging, chamber, and shoot without keyholing that I gave up on. I didn't really try all that hard though as I have plenty of 9mm plated + factory from sales. Will continue to use the product.
I believe we spoke to the same person, there appears to be some colors "for me at least" that are more forgiving than others. Zombie green in particular I have issues getting the pigment to come out properly. Gold/bronze were flawless with no effort, i didn't even measure the proper amounts.
bullet fit is still king. I go 1 1/2 thou over bore size for all of mine.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
Several things come to mind from results in pic#1.
Coated on a high humidity day.
Contaminated acetone. Acetone will absorb moisture if left open or incorrectly sealed.
unclean casts, eg handled a lot with bare hands and getting human oil xfer to the surface.
Baking before the coat is fully dry.
Either way, adhesion seems to be the issue this gentleman is having. and Adhesion issues 99% of the time is operator error in their methology.
Hope this helps.. I probably just said some of the things that Trev has already offered..
Don't worry about life, no-one gets out alive.
So ive been following this thread for some time now and decided to give the Hi-tek a shot. After a tad of trial and error I found the sweet spot. Just a few observations I noted while working. First everyone says use thin coats which I chalked up to mean less volume in general. I found that by increasing the amount of acetone in my mixture the coating was much easier to apply evenly and its almost impossible to add too much acetone as it evaporates off. The next thing was I had noticed people varying there temperature times and cycles. I found that temperature really isn't as critical as I thought. Used an old GE toaster oven I found stashed in the shed that's atleast 30 years old. During my testing I found for me that a hotter shorter cycle seemed to cure much better than a cooler longer cycle (420ish for 15 minute with a shake midways turned out great). Finally the lubrication qualities of this coating are no joke! I have a .311 mold for sks that I really wanted to use for .308 but with a hard alloy I was having a crazy time sizing the boolits down that far. Coated them with 3 coats and added a drop of oil to the finished boolit just as a precaution and they slid through a Lee .309 push through die like butter and these boolits normally drop at .313ish. I was terrified at first but this stuff is crazy simple and turns out fantastic.
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AHHHH I didn't know this one! Thanks, I generally leave the large container sealed in the original, but I didn't know it was hydroscopic. I'll just have to mix up smaller batches of the liquid and plan to use it all up once I have enough to coat. Thank you!
I found this to definitely be true, I use more acetone than the original recipe included just because at "outside temp" my boolits are warm to the touch and the acetone was flashing off too fast. I've gotten good coverage about 90% of the time with a few dork ups originally due to the learning curve. I think mixing smaller more frequent batches of the liquid might be the ticket for me. But again, my only real issue now is just over baking the pigment (or.....I left the powder in original container on my grill....the grill caught fire and scorched the outside of the container...USER ERROR!).
I have been making homemade black powder for a while. I wanted to be able to load Hi Tek coated bullets on top of the powder that I had made. I finally got around to doing it and this was the results.
That's 15 yards.
Because of my newbie loading of black powder cartridge I didn't get the best results but it was on target. Next is loading additional powder and 25 yards. The Hi Tek was Black 1035 on a 270 grain bullet with 15 grain by volume of black powder in a 44 magnum shell. After shooting 44 magnums before, these felt like 22s. But at least I know I can do one more thing.
Last edited by Avenger442; 07-15-2016 at 12:02 AM.
While I work at it, it is by God's grace that it happens. So it is best I ask him what, how and when before I start..
Avenger you might want to check your attachment... it's not pulling up.
At one with the gun.
Yeah, gotta use a hosting site and the right IMG link... I went thru that too...
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |