Ive heard that different companys cold bluing work better or worse on certain gun metals.casey,outers and brownells to name a few . Which cold bluing works best on marlin 336s. Mine is a 1992 anyone have experience? Thanks.
Ive heard that different companys cold bluing work better or worse on certain gun metals.casey,outers and brownells to name a few . Which cold bluing works best on marlin 336s. Mine is a 1992 anyone have experience? Thanks.
"Make things as simple as possible, but no simpler" Albert Einstien
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...hlight=blueing
Some good advice here. It's all about prepping the steel, even with the 'cheap stuff.'
Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.
Oxpho creme, seems like many liked it.one said it can cover blue touchups etc,but i thought that most of the old blue would be scrubbed off,so do you leave old blue on or scrubb and sand it all off?
the old thread was very interesting .
"Make things as simple as possible, but no simpler" Albert Einstien
I'd scrub off as much as you can just be careful - if some of the markings are faint to begin with, you wouldn't want to go too heavy with the sandpaper.
I've used Birchwood Casey in the past with 'ok' results but for the same amount of time and effort I think if I do another gun I'll try Oxpho, though the BC Cold Blue comes in handy for other items.
Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.
Recently saw an advertisement for a product I think was called durablue, good reviews.
I have had "ok" results with cold blue products but nothing impressive. If you are refinishing the gun I would look long and hard at rust bluing or browning the gun. Rust blue is far more durable and prettier than any cold blue. There are quite a few threads on this forum going over the rust bluing process including one started by myself.
"I don't want men who miss." -Capt. Leander H. McNelly
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