Correcting cylinder alignment on Ruger SA?

[yondering]

I mentioned in another thread here that while firelapping my barrel, I noticed it cutting more on one side of the forcing cone. Gun is a Ruger Bisley 45 Colt.
I did some closer examination tonight, looking down the barrel while shining a light on the cylinder face, and see that my chambers are not aligned with the bore very well, they are off to the right (from shooter's perspective) by what looks like about .010". Each chamber is about the same degree of misalignment, so I don't think it's the cylinder itself at fault, it must be the cylinder stop, or the slot in the frame? Perhaps the cylinder stop slot in the frame was cut in the wrong spot? (If I'm using the wrong terminology here, please correct me.)

Do you guys know of a way to fix this? I'm pretty handy with 'smithing, for the most part, but most of my experience is with rifles and autoloading pistols. I did make a free-spin pawl for this gun and another. I'm hesitant to send the gun to Ruger, since I'm the second owner (at least) and the gun has been modified (barrel shortened, free spin pawl, trigger job, cylinder throats reamed to .453"). Any suggestions?

I'm going to post this same question on shootersforum.com as well.

[S.R.Custom]

I've dealt with this a few times over the years, and it's actually a pretty quick fix...

Ruger frame steel is pretty soft and thin at the bolt hole, so it's not a big deal to disassemble the gun, lay the frame across piece of steel inserted through the cylinder window, and peen the bolt hole shut a bit on the offending side with a nail set and hammer. That done, a small file run through the bolt hole on the other side opens it up pretty quickly.

I've turned some pretty marginal performers into some very accurate shooters by doing this. My current favorite .44 is a SBH I did this to, and I have no intention of letting this one out of the stable...

[44man]

You can file the slot in the right direction to get alignment and then peen the other side to tighten it back up.
Also check the free wheel hand to make sure it is not holding the cylinder hard over. You need a tiny bit of play at full cock. For accuracy I do not believe in a super tight lockup.

[Bass Ackward]

Just realize that Ruger will probably cover the work for free, except for the shipping of coarse. Takes about 30 days though.

[yondering]

Thanks guys, I can do that, that sounds similar to what I was imagining, but quicker. I was thinking I could weld up the slot on one side and file it to fit. That would be more of a pain.

I'll probably call Ruger, to see what they say, but I'm hesitant to send it to them on the chance they replace some of the modified parts with stock stuff. Maybe even the barrel, since the forcing cone is now worn more on one side? That would leave me paying for the barrel to be shortened and re-crowned again, or buying the tools to do it myself. I've heard stories of things like that, custom triggers being replaced, etc, but don't know how true they are.

Edited to add: The cylinder does have some play when locked up, just not enought to compensate for the misalignment. It actually has a little more play than I'd like; is peening the bolt itself the correct way to tighten it up? Or are there oversize bolts available?

[44man]

Most of the time the bolt has some movement in the slot which increases play. Unless you have been cocking the gun real fast and hard so the cylinder slots are peened and enlarged, those are a decent fit. I always cock my guns slow because they are for hunting and accuracy.
Cowboy and speed shooters ruin cylinders fast.
Yes, Ruger might change out all the parts but they might send them back to you if you ask. Call them.

[S.R.Custom]

They do make oversize bolts, and Midway and Brownell's both have them. But these are made to be slimmed down, as they will not fit the cylinder notches as made...

That said, it's still easier (and cheaper) to peen & file the hole. And a little slop in the cylinder doesn't seem to impede accuracy, provided the slop is 'centered'.

[gcf]

I'll probably call Ruger, to see what they say, but I'm hesitant to send it to them on the chance they replace some of the modified parts with stock stuff.

Based on my own recent experience w/ Ruger warranty repairs, they will "return the gun to factory spec" BEFORE proceeding w/ any repairs...

They say that they will return "aftermarket" parts, & scrap "damaged or worn" factory parts. I assume that modified factory, would fall under the heading of "damaged or worn".

You could pull & replace small parts like custom triggers & springs before sending it back, but I would sure get them to clarify their position on the barrel - up front. ;=]

[ebner glocken]

From personal experience I can tell you ruger can and will replace a great trigger with a "factory spec" one. I sent in a bisley for repair work and it came back with a trigger that needed to be redone. The other one was safe but wasn't that 6#+ pull that broke like gravel that they seem to love.

Ebner

[44man]

Imagine what they would do with mine! I made a longer transfer bar to support safe firing with a 1-1/2# trigger. I ground and stoned the hammer and bent the trigger spring. It has an over power Wolfe mainspring. Slickest trigger you have ever seen. Even if it kicks my finger forward, the transfer bar is still over the firing pin.
But what a pain it is to make a transfer bar by hand, harden and temper it but it has held up for 23 years. Might be why I always won IHMSA with it.
Here is a list of my trigger pull weights;
Ruger old Army-30 oz
SBH-24 oz
.475 BFR-26 oz
45-70 BFR-19 oz ( Home made transfer bar.)
.45 Vaquaro-24 oz
Ruger Mark II-34 oz
Ruger Mark II-28 oz (My IHMSA gun.)
MOA-18 oz
Witchita 32 oz
Now you all know why I get such good groups!