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Thread: My lube didn't stay in grove....Pan lube

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    toallmy's Avatar
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    Emmerts works , and very simple if you only have a small amount of bee's wax try it . Save your mix for experimenting with at a later date . Definitely look for a lubesizer you and your wife will be much happier if you are married , keeps the mess out of the kitchen and the pans wear their suppose to be . + find beeswax on this site much cheaper than hobby shops .

  2. #22
    Boolit Master lablover's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by toallmy View Post
    Emmerts works , and very simple if you only have a small amount of bee's wax try it . Save your mix for experimenting with at a later date . Definitely look for a lubesizer you and your wife will be much happier if you are married , keeps the mess out of the kitchen and the pans wear their suppose to be . + find beeswax on this site much cheaper than hobby shops .

    Funny timing..Just got my A$$ chewed cause someone dripped wax on the stove top...Bwahahahahahaha

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    My wife wanted to know what I used the measuring cup for when she found it in the basement .

  4. #24
    Boolit Master fryboy's Avatar
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    About the only thing I can add here is about the crayons ( they were,to be fair,lightly touched upon )
    As noted various things are used to "tint" the crayons,some are more problematic than others and quite often one can see particles settle in the cooled lube
    Also not all crayons are made of wax and of the some that are it may not be a good wax or one compatible with our lubes, crayon brand has generally been the accepted and the most proven to work ( barring detrimental tinting bases of course ) an example would be the various metal colors with flakes,these usually settle somewhere in the mix,I've also read that most folks have had umm challenges with day glo/florescent colors ,in general the more transparent a color the less problematic ( only in general ) if you make a mark on a thin white sheet of paper with a few different ones and hold it up to the light you'll get an idea of what I'm trying to convey ,if you see particles it prolly isn't a good choice lolz ,most blues ,greens ,yellows are fairly safe ( of note adding blue to a unbleached beeswax based lube will turn the lube green and red will end up more of a orangish color etc )
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  5. #25
    Boolit Master Dan Cash's Avatar
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    Ditch the parafin and add lanolin. Lanolin makes the lube sticky.
    To paraphrase Ronald Reagan, the trouble with many shooting experts is not that they're ignorant; its just that they know so much that isn't so.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    I tried a couple crayons in a small batch of Emmets and it made it to brittle to stay in the lube grove . The only thing that bothers me with Emmetts is wiping off the base when loading . But I must say no leading and easy clean up with soft lube , plus runs through my lubesizer as is .

  7. #27
    Boolit Buddy
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    I still pan lube now and again. I had that same problem, the bullets were too cold and/or the melted lube not hot enough.

    Try warming the bullets to hand-hot first with a hairdryer, and when you have your lube melted, give it a bit longer on the heat before you pour.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master Oklahoma Rebel's Avatar
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    oh yeah you just need to go to the nearest gunstore and open up your wallet and get a lyman/star lube/sizer. please don't forget to include advice fore peope who don't have that kind of money to spend. some of you have offered simple, cheap or free solutions. the op is pan lubing for a reason. just don't forget us little guys. I am in the process of perfecting my own lube right now. no way could I afford a lube/sizer, and if I could I'd get a lee 20lb bottom pour, and a new mold or some powder/primers or something. I don't mind the extra work of pan lubing. after all reloading is by definition, working harder to save a buck and enjoy seeing the fruits of your labor coming to fruition. good luck,Travis
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  9. #29
    Boolit Master 40Super's Avatar
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    I was in the same boat back a few , pan lubed for a while , but when shooting thousands of rounds(local bullseye league plus practice several guns) , it was an endless ordeal . Best thing I did was buy a used Lyman (classified here) and made my own heater block for the back of it . Well, well, well worth it even if needing to trade or sell something to get it . White Label stick of lube solved the other half of the mess but no reason to not make your own for the lube/sizers to save a bit if needed.
    sent via hammer and chisel

    need oversized powder funnels , PTX's or expanders ? just ask, I make 'em for most brands plus my own styles.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master Lead Fred's Avatar
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    Ive used the same formula since I started casting, real sticky.
    I also pre heat the boolits in the oven for 20-30 min @ 200 degrees

    1lb bee's wax from Randy Rat
    1lb lard
    8oz STP for smokeless
    OR
    8oz Cornola oil for holy black

    Been tried and true for a century or so. (STP only the last few decades)
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  11. #31
    Boolit Master


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    Uh? let it cool completely? Reason why I DO not lube that way.

  12. #32
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    that's close to my black powder lube mine is b-wax- Crisco-lanolin.
    in about a 60-40-10 proportion, yes I know that's more than 100.
    but if it dries out a little over time I can add a little olive oil or add more Crisco the next time I re-melt the lube.
    the olive oil has a tendency to keep on softening the lube so use it sparingly.

  13. #33
    Boolit Buddy swmass's Avatar
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    I've moved on (or back I should say) to tumble lube for 38 and 45 but can't get it to work well in 9mm so I continue to pan lube for it. I've pan lubed all my boolits before with the same formula basically.. I use about 40% parafin and 60% vasaline, a splash of stp and a crayon. It didn't quite stick at first so I bumped up the vasaline to 60% instead of 50/50. I double heat mine.. So I load em into the tray, heat them directly on the burner making sure it doesn't smoke. Keep it set on low. Let it harden then I heat it up again then let it harden for 3-4 hours. Different bullets seem to require more lube in the tray so.. Try filling the pan up higher, it seems not to want to break apart and stay in the grooves when I make a nice thick lube cake. It's been working must fine ever since I started over filling the pan. Sure some lube gets in the crimp groove, but I crimp into the groove anyway even though it's got some lube in it and it's worked great with many styles of boolits

  14. #34
    Boolit Master lablover's Avatar
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    Ive got some 45-45-10 tumble lube on the way from white label. Might mix it with JLW and give that a go

  15. #35
    Boolit Master



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    This touches on the reason that I like Castboolits and casting "If it doesn't work remelt it and start over" good luck
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  16. #36
    Boolit Grand Master



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    Some lubes work with pan lubing and some do NOT. Here is an article I wrote for a magazine several years ago when I was shooting LOTS of Black Powder Cartridge Rifle Silhouette. Emmert's is a dandy home made lube for black powder AND smokeless powder use (it was actually developed by Buck Emmert for smokeless Schuetzen rifles). Emmert's is 50% pure natural beeswax, 40% Crisco, and 10% Canola oil. Later, I replaced the Canola Oil with Anhydrous Lanolin for longer shelf life. Prior to that, the lube on lubed bullets would slightly deteriorate when stored in a garage over the winter. The original Emmert's was good, the "improved" Emmert's was better (at least as good on the target but with longer shelf life on the bullets).

    Emmert's is similar to the commercial black powder lube, SPG, but costs just a fraction of that amount. It works perfectly when pan lubing and runs through a lube sizer without issue. It does NOT require heating. The only possible issue, is that it is soft and melts at a rather low temperature. I never had any problems with it in hot weather but if left in a car trunk without protection, it is possible to have problems at elevated temps (NRA 50/50 melted on me and killed primers when loaded rounds were exposed to direct sun in an ammo box at well over 100 degrees for about twenty minutes, as an example). When I went to matches over a weekend when it was hot, I just stored my bullets and loaded rounds in a cooler (no ice as the cooler would cool over night and protected the bullets and loaded rounds nicely from the extreme heat during the day). Understand, a car in 100 degree temps can reach 135 degrees during the day (babies and dogs have died when left in a closed car in hot weather).

    Mr. Snover's comments are directly on point. His experience with Black Powder Cartridge Rifles is of a VERY high level, by the way.

    Here is a link to my original article on Cast Pics;
    http://castpics.net/dpl/index.php/th...-piece-of-cake

    Dale
    Last edited by Dale53; 04-10-2016 at 10:23 AM.

  17. #37
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Char-Gar View Post
    Add some lube glue to the mix.
    Doesn't lube glue come free with each lot of lube grooves?
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  18. #38
    Boolit Master lablover's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dale53 View Post
    Some lubes work with pan lubing and some do NOT. Here is an article I wrote for a magazine several years ago when I was shooting LOTS of Black Powder Cartridge Rifle Silhouette. Emmert's is a dandy home made lube for black powder AND smokeless powder use (it was actually developed by Buck Emmert for smokeless Schuetzen rifles). Emmert's is 50% pure natural beeswax, 40% Crisco, and 10% Canola oil. Later, I replaced the Canola Oil with Anhydrous Lanolin for longer shelf life. Prior to that, the lube on lubed bullets would slightly deteriorate when stored in a garage over the winter. The original Emmert's was good, the "improved" Emmert's was better (at least as good on the target but with longer shelf life on the bullets).

    Emmert's is similar to the commercial black powder lube, SPG, but costs just a fraction of that amount. It works perfectly when pan lubing and runs through a lube sizer without issue. It does NOT require heating. The only possible issue, is that it is soft and melts at a rather low temperature. I never had any problems with it in hot weather but if left in a car trunk without protection, it is possible to have problems at elevated temps (NRA 50/50 melted on me and killed primers when loaded rounds were exposed to direct sun in an ammo box at well over 100 degrees for about twenty minutes, as an example). When I went to matches over a weekend when it was hot, I just stored my bullets and loaded rounds in a cooler (no ice as the cooler would cool over night and protected the bullets and loaded rounds nicely from the extreme heat during the day). Understand, a car in 100 degree temps can reach 135 degrees during the day (babies and dogs have died when left in a closed car in hot weather).

    Mr. Snover's comments are directly on point. His experience with Black Powder Cartridge Rifles is of a VERY high level, by the way.

    Here is a link to my original article on Cast Pics;
    http://castpics.net/dpl/index.php/th...-piece-of-cake

    Dale
    Thanks for the link..great read

  19. #39
    Boolit Grand Master



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    Lablover;
    Glad to be of service!

    Dale

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check