Rear sight threading in unsupported area

[wonderwolf]

I have a rear sight (GP100) that has the windage screw all the way in (moving the blade to the LEFT) the screw is bottomed out and the gun still shoots off to the right....The blade still has some play showing that it can go left further if the screw had more threads to use but the rear sight body seems like it wasn't threaded all the way to accomplish this. I've tried running a tap in to thread further but the scalloped out section on the top is not supporting the tap and allowing it to cut material where it needs to be cut. ideas to support the area?

The screw is that funky kind with the hex hole that matches up to the blade to give the "clicks" when you run it in and out. so I can't just run any longer screw in there (with lead threads removed). I guess I need to find a longer screw of like design or possibly just a new rear sight body? I got the gun new so I could contact Ruger but I don't think I'm to that point just yet.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

The question is why it is shooting to one side, for even if you manage to put enough adjustment on the rear sight, it might be due to something that could cause larger groups. Is the timing right, or is the cylinder gap wider on one side than the other? Or could some member of the intellectual classes have removed the barrel, and screwed it back a little too far?

[wonderwolf]

I'm the first owner as it was a factory new gun, as the sight blade is centered currently and the screw is bottomed out I'm not thinking anything is really out of place on it, just that the sight isn't giving me all the adjustment I paid for. Granted I may naturally shoot the gun to one side more so than the other just because I'm unique (like everybody else) but still when the screw is all the way in and the blade is JUST centered but I should still be able to adjust the sights accordingly.

[wonderwolf]

This is all the way over to the "left"...

[LAGS]

Yep, That aint right.
It should be further to the left when adjusted all the way to the left.
Well, at least mine did.
But I never took the sight apart, because it worked fine.

[wonderwolf]

Yep, That aint right.
It should be further to the left when adjusted all the way to the left.
Well, at least mine did.
But I never took the sight apart, because it worked fine.

yeah, and when I ran the right size tap in the scalloped area didn't offer enough downward pressure to allow it to cut.

[JLarsson]

When you had it apart, did you check for debris in the bottom of the hole that might be limiting the travel of the blade? Could you run the screw in farther with the blade and spring removed than with them in?

I'd definitely call Ruger. They MIGHT just ship you a new rear sight, and you'd be good to go.

[nicholst55]

Call Ruger and explain the problem to them, and ask them politely to send you a new sight. I'll bet they will.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

Yes, that sounds like either debris or an incorrectly made sight. You chances with Ruger are probably best if the gun was a recent purchase, but calling them is something you should try first, no matter how long ago that was.

Am I right in thinking the sight blade has a sort of flat dovetail which is trapped between the screw and the spring? I believe I would silver solder a tiny piece of metal to extend that dovetail a little to the right, and if necessary file some away on the left. You would have to renew the white paint in the outline groove, but how much trouble is that? Alternatively if it is just a piece of flat sheet metal, you could make a replacement.

There are a couple of alternatives. You are right not to attempt use of the unsupported tap. My guess is that Ruger first tap and then cut the scallop. If you want to clamp it in a vice, you would use a piece of round rod matching the radius of that scallop, to hold it. So you could file a groove of the minor diameter of the thread, or a little more, in that round rod. Something soft like brass or annealed mild steel would be best. Use a metal pin to keep them aligned while you clamp them, and that metal will support the tap.

Alternatively you could embed the whole sight, up to the mouth of the hole, in cerrosafe alloy, which melts at less than the boiling point of water. Use that minor-diameter pin to keep the hole clear, and tap away.

[44man]

Ruger sights are easy. I have a bunch and if I remove the blade from any of them I can screw the windage screw in so deep there is about 1/8" above the head.
You need the right screw driver, maybe that is stopping the screw from going in. Best are those made for eye glasses.
If you can take a thumbnail and move the blade left more, I bet you are running a screwdriver into the housing.
The hole is plenty deep.

[wonderwolf]

I pulled the sight out of the gun completely, tore it down all the way down cleaned it really well. Ran a tap back in it and got a little more brave than I should have maybe but it cut a few more threads. Cleaned it again and reassembled, now the sight will go all the way to the left until it hits a hard stop where its MEANT to. I'll get out to the range again sometime this week with some light to hot loads and see if it'll zero and stay zeroed at longer ranges.


I noticed there is also lateral movement that could stand to be shimmed out of the blade body on the frame. Don't have a feeler gauge handy but its not insignificant. Range report to follow at the first possible opportunity

On the note of debris there was some small glitter **** that came out when I (sonic) cleaned the sight so it could have been a build up from the previous taping attempt?

On the screwdriver I have wee screwdrivers specific for sight adjustments so that was not the issue. In fact I was worried about stripping something out if I applied too much to the wee little windage screw. Seems like stock sights always need some level of improvement. rarely have I been satisfied with the performance or design (or both) of stock iron sights)

[44man]

I hated when Ruger started to make their own and stopped using Micro sights but they were functional for years of IHMSA. The elevation screw would wear so I bought packs of them, only 25 cents ea. Everyone's gripe was no sight changes for production and all that was needed was for Ruger to offer Micro sights as an option.
I never had a problem with the side play, the springs hold things pretty decent.
I have no more problems now anyway, had to go to Ultra Dots for hunting, Can't see the stinking opens for beans anymore.
Anyway, you did good, must have been a burr in the hole.

[wonderwolf]

Took it out to the range and shot a few cylinders of light-heavy magnum loads starting at about 10 yards and moving back. With the blade cranked all the way to the left as possible I was about 2" to the left of my aiming point with some of the loads on average. So a click or two gets me around dead center. Glad this got sorted out, Also tiny taps are handy.