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Thread: Pound cast or cerrosafe chamber first time with either.

  1. #1
    Boolit Man
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    Pound cast or cerrosafe chamber first time with either.

    I have a few rifles i want to start casting for and would like to check a couple measurements before trying different molds and sizers. 2 are military surplus bolt actions, a 91/30 mosin and a 7.7 arisaka. Not too woried about a pound cast with these as they are sturdy bolt actions but the 3rd rifle is a 1957 Winchester 1894 30/30 lever action and am worried about opening the lever after pound casting. The cerrosafe would be reusable in all 3 rifles but have heard even during the 30-60 minutes after casting the size is not true. I have slugged the arisaka with a piece of lead OO buck shot 3X and with 7 lands do not know if i am getting a correct measurement. I have a micrometer and dial calipers. Any recomendations on which would be better for a first timer they both seem a little scary!

  2. #2
    Boolit Master Yodogsandman's Avatar
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    Use a pound slug. Use only pure lead. Be sure to take all precautions by wrapping the steel rod with tape and covering the rod end with a gas check cup. Your 1957 30-30 rifle takes much more of a pounding when fired. You can practice making pound slugs on the milsurp rifles first to hone your skills.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    I use cerrosafe. Never did like pounding lead slugs. Cerrosafe shrinks slightly during initial cooling It then expands to the chamber’s original size about one hour after cooling to room temperature.

    Those stress balls really work..... When you get to shove them down a persons throat.

  4. #4
    Banned

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    what yodog said.
    the barrel slugging is for checking it for tight/loose spots.
    there is a good sticky or two here explaining the throat slugging process.

    oh and to make sure of your measurements on odd land/groove barrels, wrap a piece of thin shim stock around them, measure that, then subtract the thickness of the shim twice.

  5. #5
    Boolit Man
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    I have read the pound cast sticky and will try it with the bolt actions until i feel that I will not be able to mess up and have a slug lock up my action. I read putting the rod on the floor and leaning upper body on the butt of the stock will help release the bolt or lever. Thanks

  6. #6
    Boolit Master


    fecmech's Avatar
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    I have done pound casts on 2 Rossi 92's, Winchester 94AE, and a Henry Steel frame. The only problem is using too much lead so that the OAL is too long to clear with action fully open. I use pure lead wire after filling the case up to the neck in a 30-30 with molten lead to take up the space.
    "Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyrannies.” Aristotle

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
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    I have done it both ways, pound cast and cerrosafe. With cerrosafe you need to be absolutely sure it does not fill past the primer end of the case space. If it gets into the locking lug area or some other cavity you will be sorry! It worked great in pistols but in bolt action I was lucky to get all the cerrosafe out. The pound cast worked remarkably well. The only caution is that the lead pounded needs to be PURE soft lead. Don't use a dowel! Just follow the sticky instructions.

    Ed C

  8. #8
    Boolit Man
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    I have sheet lead from flashing that is very soft, it is the closest to pure that i have. Also have some very old 4oz sinkers that are soft. I have a .250 steel rod with a 25acp case epoxied on the end then wrapped with electrical tape that i have used to slug the barrels, it seemed to work ok but I am very new to casting for rifles, seems like a different animal than handgun casting.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	159802I use candle wax for chamber/bore casts.

    If you strip the action to leave as much room as possible, you should be able to get the cast you want.

    If you go this route, make sure the chamber/bore is clean and dry. Push a paper plug down the bore to the depth you want and CAREFULLY pour the molten wax and allow to cool.

    Avoid getting wax into any cracks and crevices as it can be a PITA to remove and will prevent the slug from moving.

    Once cool, gently tap out the slug with a piece of wooden dowel from the muzzle end, it should break free easily.

    ukrifleman.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check