Lee Powder Dippers

[Frank V]

I think a quality balance beam scale should be on every reloaders bench.
It just makes sence to check powder charges. I ALWAYS set my powder measure with the scale.

[Boyscout]

Dittos on using the Lee dippers and the chart to get as close as possible and then trickling the last bit of the charge. I scale all of my hunting ammunition.

[shtur]

I have never been able to obtain a consistent powder charge with any Lee dipper. Since I single load rifle loads, I use them as a modified trickler for rifle only. I fill it close to level and pour the powder, then scoop additional powder and trickle it into the weighing pan until the needle points to zero.

[Mike Kerr]

Powder dippers seem like an imprecise tool, but they sure can fill in the gaps in loading. I still have a set and use one or two of them from time to time.

[10x]

Sounds like you need a new scale. If you keep an eye out on Flee bay you or Swapping and selling you can generally find a good RCBS or Lyman 505 scale for cheep and a trickler is a must for stick powder. Even the Lee scale is very good. There is a love hate thing will all powder measures, but get in the neighborhood and trickle the rest. Zero it out the scale when you start. I find you need a level surface when you start helps and keep away from fans and airflow. If you have a weight like a boolit that you know the weight of you can use that to test it out before you get started.

And I just read the thread - my advice is redundant...

It could be that the scale needs a good cleaning. The critical points are the beam bearings. To clean, remove the beam and clean the bearing recess with brake clean and a soft fine paint brush, also clean the sharp V edge of the bearing surface on the beam. Dust (or powder) can interfere with the free movement of the beam.. Check that the sharp edges of the bearing surface on the beam are not chipped or rounded.
If it an oil damped scale - check the oil damping pan and clean it.

I check to see if my scale is working properly by weighing at least 10 or so 45 grain factory bullets.
I then make sure the scale is zeroed, weight a 1 grain charge, dump it into a clean spoon without spilling, replace the pan on the scale then dump that charge back onto the scale - the scale should return to zero every time for ten weighs.
I then do that for 0.1 grains several times. The beam should go off zero with an empty pan, then return to zero when the charge is dumped back on.
Do this with a large grain powder - it is easier to keep track of the grains.

[William Yanda]

I use dippers sometimes when my powder measure is already "dialed in" to a specific load I'm using. I started with dippers only, using them as Lee instructions. Then I got a scale and a reloading manual. I found I could vary the charge by changing my method. I get a slightly heavier charge if I run the dipper mouth first through the powder, and even higher if I run it through mouth first twice. By varying the method (frontwards, backwards, shaking, striking w/straight edge, etc.) you can get a good range around the initial charge. When I was using a dipper a lot, and was on a roll, I could easily keep .1 grain variation of W231 and Bullseye, and found measuring Unique was closer with a dipper, round to round, than my powder measures...

Thanks for the ideas about technique. I suspect I found the following information here, I am not trying to claim credit for originating it. Volume of dippers can be varied by putting a piece of tape inside the dipper. This is reversible. If you are willing to dedicate a dipper to a given charge, the top can be filed or sanded to reduce the volume of each dipper full.

[BKS]

RCBS sent me a new set of bearing for my Dad's 1010 scale and I will install them soon.

Thanks for all the replies and advice. I have learned tons from this website.

[Frank V]

RCBS sent me a new set of bearing for my Dad's 1010 scale and I will install them soon.

Thanks for all the replies and advice. I have learned tons from this website.

That will be a great scale once you get it right.

[richhodg66]

I bought a set of the Lee dippers with the slide rule thing about 25 years ago when I was just getting started and have been rather impressed by how much it has been used for various things. I think it cost me six or seven bucks and was probably one of thebetter things for the money I have bought over the years.

[Frank V]

I have also been considering a set of Lee dippers, they should be fast for handguns if they fit the charges I use.

[Tom W.]

A dipper full of Herco works well for my 9mm , the next size up for my .45.... However my loving bride got me an RCBS 502 scale for Christmas, just in case I have a powder that the dippers slide rule thing don't cover.


I wonder if the newer dippers have a more comprehensive slide rule....?

[Frank V]

A dipper full of Herco works well for my 9mm , the next size up for my .45.... However my loving bride got me an RCBS 502 scale for Christmas, just in case I have a powder that the dippers slide rule thing don't cover.


I wonder if the newer dippers have a more comprehensive slide rule....?

Which dipper for the 9mm, I use Herco in the .38 Special.
Thanks

[EDG]

Make your own record for your dippers using a spread sheet.
You can add any powder and weigh it in any dipper and record the results in the spread sheet.
If you know the specific gravity you can calculate dipper capacities but the results need to be verified by your powder scale.

You can find the RCBS Little Dandy chart on line an use it as an example.

I have a Litttle dandy chart but I do not like the powder across the top. So I put the dipper numbers at the top (in the top row) and I put the powders
in the left column. I think that makes for a more functional chart. You can scroll the spread sheet until the power you are using is in the row right under the powder dippers and pick the one you need.

In the RCBS Little Dandy chart there are a lot of NAs in the chart because they do not know of any cartridge that uses that powder charge. I use some powders for reduced loads in big bores and when I do I fill in the NAs in the Little Dandy chart.

A dipper full of Herco works well for my 9mm , the next size up for my .45.... However my loving bride got me an RCBS 502 scale for Christmas, just in case I have a powder that the dippers slide rule thing don't cover.


I wonder if the newer dippers have a more comprehensive slide rule....?

[Don Fischer]

Something to keep in mind about powder's. The coarser the powder, stick vrs ball, the less accurate by volume measurement. Think of a glass full of sand and a glass full of rock's. In the rocks is a lot of unused space between the rocks, not so with the sand. i can get awfully close duplicate's with powder thrown from my powder measure. small trick. When you go up the fill the powder cylinder, bump it a few time's before dumping it, settles the powder. Even easier to see it with a case. Dump a load into a case full to the rim. Now take a pencil and begin tapping the side of the case. You'll be able to see the powder settle.

Nice thing about beam scale's. Unless they are dirty or the aget is worn, pretty hard not to have them balance the same every time. My understanding with the digital is the battery get's low and the scale throws off!

[Frank V]

Yup, I still think a balance beam scale is the way to go. With coarse powder I set it a grain or so light & trickle up to desired weight with my trickler & scale.

[Ric-san]

My first year of reloading I almost exclusively used Lee dippers. I even modified some to different powder cc's to more match the Lee auto disks...worked like a champ, just time consuming...

[eli]

I zero my RCBS 505 on a level surface, set my load weight on the scale, then use a single dipper to throw as close as I can. I use a Redding trickler, mounted on top of a Harbor Freight pocket size digital scale, which I use for separating cast bullets by weight (accurate to about two grains), so the trickler is well above the 505 and I drop in the final measure a grain or two at a time, though sometimes, depending on how close I can get with the dipper, it's more like winding a spring-drive clock in a hurry.

Every now and again, after setting the scale back to condition zero, I tap the beam so it bottom-outs smartly and I check that it's free to come back to zero. Sometimes the thing needs an adjustment of a tenth of a grain or so, but I think the small time it adds to a loading session is worth the peace of mind of knowing I am no experiencing an unknown power error.

I occasionally tap it while weighing, to make sure the beam is floating freely.

I should mention that I have my scale set to about eye level, so I can better eyeball the settings as I drop powder into the pan.

About using a steel plate as a level table, I personally would be concerned that it might have an effect on the magnetic damping field that RCBS/Ohaus built into the device.

If you've never noticed, turn your 505 upside down and you'll see two small magnets set opposite of each other, where the copper plate on the beam rides up and down.

I also recall reading that a florescent shop light above the scale can throw readings off.

[Frank V]

I'm like eli, I use a balance beam scale even when using a powder measure & ball powders.
I like knowing exactly what charge I'm using even if I only check it now & then using ball powders.

[mdi]

Another thought; I have "customized" several dippers to get closer to a specific powder charge. If I need less powder, I drop some epoxy into the dipper cavity to make it smaller (I have glued BBs inside to reduce capacity too), thus reducing the charge. If I need more powder I can ream out or drill the cavity a bit deeper. Experimenting is fun and harmless. I made several dippers from brass tubing and customized the charges for different loads...

With a good warm up and practice I can hold charges to 1/4 grain easily, I still check my "dips" with a beam scale, just like I would when using my C-H powder measure...

[JeffG]

I love the dippers. There is definitely a technique to getting accurate scoops. I push the scoop down into the powder and let it run in, then lift it out and strike the heap off the top with the finger between two joints. I can keep the charges typically within .1 grain.