Low shoulders on 308

[Dickieray]

If your calipers have a depth rod measure from high step on case gage to case head and get us that dimension. It will give us a better idea of the shoulder location on these cases.

I don't have a depth rod on my calpers.

[Dickieray]

I'm am confused on how you ended up pushing the shoulders back too far. With dies and a shell holder in spec, there is absolutely no way for that to happen. Either the case gauge was reamed too deep or the Rcbs dies are way too shallow. If the dies, then RCBS likely owes you some brass. Their die instructions if not changed say to screw die down to touch she'll holder then 1/16 to 1/8 turn further.

I always size brass to fit my chambers. Start out with die backed off of shellholder. Size brass and check in chamber. The bolt should be resistant to closing. Continue to screw the die in at small intervals (one revolution is 0.071"), size and check. When the bolt will just close with little to no resistance, you're done and the die is set for that rifle. If multiple rifles, the size to fit the tightest chamber. Of course, a hornady comparator to measure case head to shoulder makes setting up dies for a particle a snap.

Here's a check for you. Do you have a fired case from your 308 rifle? Put a .40 case or or other pistol case that will fit over the neck and mouth and rest on the case shoulder. Then measure the overall length of the two cases with your calipers. Then do the same with these allegedly sized too much cases.

Let us know those numbers. They are arbitrary in themselves but the difference will tell us what you have with the sized cases.

All the brass I have has been run through these dies. I have some loads worked up for a range trip, but, I'm afraid to shoot them now. I have an almost new barrel (fired six times to zero in a scope) on the TC now and certainly don't want to ruin it. I have had some problems with another barrel with cracked casings and some (2) complete separations of the upper end of the case from the lower end of the case. I figured it was the barrel, but, now I'm thinking its the dies.......too much of a coincidence. I'm going to contact RCBS and see if they will check out this set or at least the sizing die. Meanwhile it's deer season! Guess i need to go factory until this is solved.

[BK7saum]

What do the cases look like in the TC chamber? I guess you couldn't really tell without removing the extractor. Never mind.

[Dickieray]

I have found the problem guys. I am a trusting soul and have been misled by a seller. I did not buy the die set new, but, from this website. Upon further inspection the die has been shortened. I can't believe I was sold (and did not closely inspect and find the die had been tampered with) a modified die. He die a good job of it and for 3 years or so I have been jamming my casing shoulders back as fast as i blew them out to where they belonged. No wonder after 4 or 5 loads the cases were trying to come apart. Thanks for all the help and advice guys. Sorry i missed the obvious!!!

[country gent]

A good machinist or toolmaker can modify a die and it dosnt show. Your okay with the die, you just need toadjust it up to match your rifels needs. If they will fit drop 5-6 fired cases into your gage and measure case head depth. If your calipers wont measure depth then put a spacer ( #8 0r 10 washer or other item) on the case head and measure over it to face of gage This gives a "comparative" measurement to set your sizing die to -.001- -.002. this will allow for easier chambering. I have custom chambers that are dead 0 on headspace that Ive had to remove a small amount from die base to resize fully, But I stamp the amount Ive shortened the die next to caliber designation so its known IE 308 win - .005. The die will work fine still. to rough set it find a washer or piece of stock .125 thick and set on top of shell holder run die down to touch lightly and adjust from there.

[Dickieray]

Ifanyone can use these cases they are yours for the postage, or free if you pick them up FTF.

[Fishman]

I sent a PM.

These might work just dandy in my .308 Marlin express for range work at least. Others have reported success with resized .308 brass. The .308 marlin has a small rim, but most will operate with the .308 rim as well.

I will need to trim the neck of course.

I wonder if the die was modified for reloading the .308 marlin.

[Dickieray]

Cases are spoken for.

[Geezer in NH]

I don't have a depth rod on my calpers.

Then they are unique

[leadman]

Dickieray, When sizing brass for a T/C (assuming it is an Encore) you need to do it a little differently. Use your barrel and the frame to determine your "Headspace".
There is usually a gap between the frame and the end of the barrel that needs to be taken into account. I use an automotive feeler gauge between the end of the case and the breech of the frame. I use a .0015" gauge mostly. Size your brass so there is just a very light drag on the feeler gauge with the action locked up. Make sure you feeler gauge is above the extractor. If the feeler gauge can not be pulled out size the case to push the shoulder back slightly and measure again.
There is a good explanation of this on Mike Bellm's website. He also shows a method using a dial indicator and a special tool placed on the end of the barrel. I have this and have found, like Mike that this is not necessary.

[Dickieray]

Dickieray, When sizing brass for a T/C (assuming it is an Encore) you need to do it a little differently. Use your barrel and the frame to determine your "Headspace".
There is usually a gap between the frame and the end of the barrel that needs to be taken into account. I use an automotive feeler gauge between the end of the case and the breech of the frame. I use a .0015" gauge mostly. Size your brass so there is just a very light drag on the feeler gauge with the action locked up. Make sure you feeler gauge is above the extractor. If the feeler gauge can not be pulled out size the case to push the shoulder back slightly and measure again.
There is a good explanation of this on Mike Bellm's website. He also shows a method using a dial indicator and a special tool placed on the end of the barrel. I have this and have found, like Mike that this is not necessary.

Thanks leadman. I have been reading up on and watching some of the videos. I'm getting a few shims and a feeler gauge from him. I'm shooting several calibers on the same prohunter. Got a lot of work to do getting them right.