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Thread: Savage model 1899

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
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    Savage model 1899

    I recently procured a savage 99 in 38/55 wcf. manufactured in 1904. was in rough shape but after weeks of kerosene baths and bore brushing, I was finally able to get clean patches. So now ready to shoot it! Factory ammo for 38/55 is anemic, so looking to handload for it to create an accurate hunting load using more of a spitzer shape bullet. Any input from Savage 38/55 owners appreciated.

    thnx,
    max

  2. #2
    In Remembrance
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    Great find. I really doubt there will be a lot of savage 38/55 owners here though.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master OnHoPr's Avatar
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    First slug your bore, then find a boolit that fits your criteria for weight and shape. Remember to note possible OAL for the magazine with the intended boolit. If you want a spitzer type boolit you will probably want to push it at the action's & cartridge's close to fastest potential for longer range ballistics. You can always cast the boolit in so many different ways to fit your hunting needs like hard or soft or hard/soft. You may want to look into a gas check style.
    May you hands be warmed on a frosty day.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I'm a Savage owner and a 38-55 owner but I have yet to see an 1899 in 38-55. My older 38-55 94 is a few years older than your 1899 (1901) but it only sees standard 38-55 loads. I don't hunt with either of my 38-55's but for critters I hunt that 250gr hunk of lead @ 1400fps should be plenty.
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  5. #5
    Boolit Mold
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    Had the bore slugged yesterday and comes in at .380. Been looking at cast boolits and molds at Midway, but not seeing anything spritzer shaped. I have some factory fodder just purchased - Black Hills 255gr cast flat point- only 1250 fps, and Winchester 255 gr jacketed FP at 1320 fps. The original velocities we're around 1700 fps but have been downgraded to b safe in older Winchester and Marlins! My Savage is stronger than those and rated for 30,000 cup, and the rotary magazine is designed to hold spitzer boolits. So I am hoping to find a boolit I can handload up to 1700 fps. Does anyone know of a boolit and or mold that fit that criteria

  6. #6
    Boolit Master

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    I would try Hawk bullets or Track of the Wolf. They both have some custom offerings.
    Disclaimer: Reloading and casting I only look at cents/round and ignore any other costs

  7. #7
    Boolit Master OnHoPr's Avatar
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    http://rcbs.com/Products/Bullet-Cast...2-BPS-608.aspx

    It is not a GC boolit though, this was just a quick peek on the net, but I think I have seen something like what you are referring to. I just can't remember which company or whether it is still produced. There maybe something in retro searching as well. There are probably plenty of them for the long range shooters and black powder. You might be able to find a GC version somewhere.
    Last edited by OnHoPr; 09-30-2015 at 09:31 AM.
    May you hands be warmed on a frosty day.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    Depends upon where and what you're hunting. Here in Eastern forests I would be perfectly happy with a 250 grain flat nosed bullet at 13-1400fps. Plenty of whump to knock down a deer at woods ranges. Even at higher velocity I would prefer a flat nosed cast bullet too. I own and hunt with a pile of M1899 Savages in all the Savage calibers and I stick with flat noses even though the rotor permits pointier ones.

  9. #9
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    I'm not sure why you want a spitzer bullet. FN's hit harder, transfer more shock, and really, spitzers don't shoot flatter or carry more energy at range enough to make any difference. I'd go with the FN's to get the extra "whop" factor. And those old Savages are good, but be careful about hot loading that ctg. You should be able to get a little extra, but metalurgy just wasn't nearly as good or reliable back when that gun was made, so it makes sense to treat it like the "lady" it really is. And it'll STILL kill just about anything you'd ever want to shoot with it. It's never going to be a real long range gun, but inside 200 yds., if you learn the trajectory and sight settings for it, it'll do most anything that needs to be done in the hunting field. A friend of mine in AL shot his buck this past year with his .38/55, and he was shooting black powder equivalent loads. One shot, in the tracks, graveyard dead. Can't beat that. Rather large, heavy, deep penetrating bullets just don't need velocity like the little, light ones do. Let it be what it is, which is a darn good killer in its own right, and don't try to make it into something it's just not. You'll be happy with it when you see what it can do. That's my 2 cents' worth, anyway. Once you see it in use in the field, it'll open your eyes.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    That's exactly what I was thinking, but didn't want to be so forthright!

    Regarding the strength of early 1899's: They definitely have more moxie than an equivalent M94 Winchester or 93 Marlin, but were still nonetheless built of low carbon steel, and exhibit a "springiness" not found in bolt guns. Rather a less than desirable vehicle for hot rodding, IMO, especially when case life is concerned. That changed for the better in 1915 or thereabouts when they upped the ante with better steels and heat treating to make them viable with the new .250-3000 cartridge and the .300 in 1920. Also, early pre-1909 (pre-#90,000) guns had the squared off bolt rear ends + square receiver mortises into which they fitted. That arrangement proved a poor choice as quite a few developed cracks and were routinely replaced by the factory with new style receivers and bolts when the guns went back to the factory for any kind of routine work. (New meaning rounded bolt rear ends and rounded receiver mortises- a design feature carried through to the end 80 years later.)

    Another thing to consider when jacking up velocity with an attendant increase in recoil in an 1899 is the added risk of inducing the dreaded "Savage tang crack" in the wrist area of the stock. With the added recoil, your shoulder won't thank you either if the rifle has a crescent butt plate. Been there, done that, had the black-and-blue marks to show for it.

    If I wanted to hot rod a .38-55 (and that in and of itself isn't necessarily a bad idea) and wanted to do it in a Savage lever gun (another not-bad idea), I would much prefer to locate a later model Brush Gun chambered in .375 Winchester Big Bore and be done with it.
    Last edited by gnoahhh; 10-01-2015 at 12:00 PM.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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    Now that's a 99 I would like to find. Have a C Sharps 1875 in 38-55 for the fun shooting & a Marlin 375 w-w for serious stuff. Use the same mold for both, Lee 250-fp lubed or pp'ed.
    Gun control 1ST ROUND ON TARGET.

  12. #12
    Boolit Mold
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    maximini14

    Quote Originally Posted by 6.5 mike View Post
    Now that's a 99 I would like to find. Have a C Sharps 1875 in 38-55 for the fun shooting & a Marlin 375 w-w for serious stuff. Use the same mold for both, Lee 250-fp lubed or pp'ed.
    thnx for the feedback guys- some good points. So here is an update on what I've been able to find for my savage.
    Few days ago I had the bore slugged and it came in at .379! I was then referred to a local caster and voila he had on the shelf 2 boxes of spitzer 260 gr cast boolits .380 diameter- perfect! I believe they r from Lyman molds and r Bullet #375376. Now looking to start loading. I have some IMR3031 to try but of course my Lyman manual 47 does not offer data for this wt cast boolit- so if anyone has a manual showing start/max load data please respond. Heard good things about Reloader 7 for this cartridge too but same deal #47 manual has no data. Today went to the range to shoot this "lady" for the 1st time. Tried "Black Hills" 255 gr cast- not very good- all over the place! Then shot some factory Win 255 gr jacketed @ 1320 fps- turned in some pretty nice groups at 100yds- 3 shots in the bullseye, 2 almost in same hole, the 3rd about 1 3/4 inch away- this with a peep sight!!! So this may very well b my hunting load. But the tinkerer in me just can't leave well enuf alone so I will continue with plans to develop a load with the spitzer 260 gr cast boolits with a little more oomph to em! Appreciate all the input-keep it coming.

  13. #13
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    "If I wanted to hot rod a .38-55 (and that in and of itself isn't necessarily a bad idea) and wanted to do it in a Savage lever gun (another not-bad idea), I would much prefer to locate a later model Brush Gun chambered in .375 Winchester Big Bore and be done with it. "

    A couple of years ago, I bit the bullet (still probably payed too much) for the Brush Gun variant in .358 Winchester. Great, great rifle. Shoots cast with deer killing loads very nicely. It's about the closest thing there is to the perfect deer rifle there is for the conditions I hunt. Wish it had a pistol grip stock and the trigger safety rather than the tang safety, but perfect otherwise.

    I have an old octagon long barrel in .303 that the bore is rough on, someday it may become a .375 Winchester if I can find a donor rifle.

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I'll recommend the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook for you, here's a free sample of the data for the excellent 260gr 375449:
    IMR 3031 Start 26.0 Max 29.5
    Rx7 Start 20.5 Max 26.5
    Use at your own risk, can verify that the 3031 load is something you'll want to try. Haven't done much with the Rx7 powder for this cartridge.
    Endowment Life Member NRA, Life Member TSRA, Member WACA, NRA Whittington Center, BBHC
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  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy
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    If you want jacketed bullets and a bit more pizzazz, find a box of Canadian CIL-Imperial ammo. It's 38-55 load is the standard 255 gr jacketed flat point, but it's loaded for 1600 fps muzzle velocity as opposed to the 1300 +/- of Winchester ammo. It's good stuff and getting a bit pricey, but it'll wring the best performance out of your 38-55.
    yooper

  16. #16
    Boolit Mold
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    where r u finding CIL ammo? I did a quik search of ebay and old western scrounger- zip

  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy
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    eBay quit allowing ammo on their auctions a number of years ago. There are several boxes on GunBroker.com right now running from $55 to $75 plus shipping. I've got a box + 7. PM me if you'd be interested.
    yooper

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check