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Thread: Making Bullet Molds in a Jobbing Shop (American Machinist, Jan 1907)

  1. #1
    Boolit Master ohland's Avatar
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    Post Making Bullet Molds in a Jobbing Shop (American Machinist, Jan 1907)

    American Machinist, vol 30, Part One - Jan 10, 1907

    Some things never change. It's always the same, someone looks at a significant supplier's prices, and wants you to meet them. In this case, think of the layout time on the cherry alone. Now consider that the one mold you made it for will most likely be the only one the cherry will be used with... Sunk cost...

    Notice this does not relate to a company in the mold making business, where they probably would be able to then catalog that mould and spread the cost of the cherry across a number of molds. In the case of lathe cut, this applies even less.

    https://books.google.com/books?id=r1...20mold&f=false

    Making Bullet Molds in a Jobbing Shop

    When one is running a small repair shop “far from the madding crowd," there arise many small problems for quick Solution These vary from making a stingy farmer understand that you can not and will not drive ten miles to fix “just a screw out of place or something“ on his thrashing outfit for a dollar, or in fact for any set price before seeing the job, to getting a bullet out of little Willie's $1.75 22-caliber rifle, so that said Willie can catch up to the rest of the boys who are anxiously looking for squirrels, while talking about bears, wolves, etc

    A job we not infrequently were up against was the making of bullet molds. Farmers would lose the mold that went with their trusty (?) old muzzle-loaders, and would come around to me, sounding, as it were, to find what the cost of a new one would be. I had my price, which was $3 for a single mold, i.e., a mold which would make but one bullet at a time. They would bring me catalogs, and show me that a better mold, only of a different caliber, could be had for one dollar. I always assured them that they were more than welcome to get their molds else where, as my profit on one was not so great that I begged to make many. The first thing to be done after Si. had decided he really wanted a mold more than the $3 was to get the gun, and if possible a bullet from the former mold, though this last was more to get the shape of the bullet like the old one, so that Si. would not think he was being buncoed because the point did not have the same slant.

    Then I made a cherry the shape and size of the bullet on the end of a round bar of tool steel, this being then fluted, relieved and tempered. At first I made molds out of wrought iron, bringing them to shape on the anvil, but this was “too much for the money,” so I made a pattern and had a couple of dozen cast of gray iron at the nearest foundry, The bodies of these were large enough to accommodate any ordinary-sized bullet; but, sure enough, about a week after I got them in, along comes a grizzled old chap from the hills wanting a mold for a slug big enough to designate its size by inches, like naval guns. It was a ball he wanted.

    Attachment 144478

    Fig. 1 shows approximately the shape of the cherry I made for its manufacture. I, of course, had to forge the mold parts, as the cast ones were out of the question. However, I got well paid for my trouble as the old fellow had no cash, and gave me a couple of beaver skins which I sold at a price I would be ashamed to relate—it would make the reader think of bead trading in the Indian country. After drilling and putting in the pin that holds the two parts of the mold together, and getting the faces straight so the lead wouldn't stick out like wings on the sides of the bullet, I drilled a hole with its center in the joint between the two halves (about 1/4 inch for a 44-caliber bullet) and, revolving the cherry in the lathe, squeezed the handles of the mold until the faces were together, of course seeing that no chips were between.

    It would have been a long job to flute the cherry for the large slug with a file, so I put Several rough centers on the ball and, starting the tool in at the nose, pulled the cherry around by hand, in much the same fashion as turning a solid wrist pin in a cross head. I must confess the flutes were few and far between, but so were the dollars, and anyway it did the job. The- next item was the cut-off plate pivoted on the single connecting pin, and made of saw steel, shown at Fig. 4. The last operation was to put on a pair of wooden handles. Generally about the time I got to this the three dollars were so far gone (counting fifty to seventy-five cents per hour) that the artistic appearance of the job suffered considerably. Fig. 2 shows the usual cherry, Fig. 3 the cast molds.

    While I am writing of that shop I might say that the best paying job which came in was the drilling and tapping of bicycle cranks. Dozens were brought, first to the blacksmith, who after welding sent them to me. I drilled and tapped the hole for the pedal pins (1/2 inch by 20 threads) in about three minutes and got twenty-five cents each.

    W. L. McL. Canada.
    Belle, Belle, Belle!
    Purty Gu-ur-url!

  2. #2
    Boolit Bub
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    Some things never change (efficiency) and some change drastically (price!).

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    I enjoyed the read, thanks for posting.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Also enjoyed the reprint and information. I cheated whith the few specialty moulds I made. We had a cnc edm plunger machine in the tool room. Make the blocks or scavange a set suitable with smaller bullet in it. Turn up a foughing and finish electrode from carbon and burn the cavities. The machine would do a flat circle pattern that would burn grease grooves into place. Set up right rough and finish would take about 45 mins un attended after set up. Did a great job and with salvaged blocks no sprue plates or blocks needed to be made. One plus is the carbon is very easy to machine up and the process is extremely accurate. No pressure machining to cause distortions.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
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    Thank you for the interesting post, times were much simpler back then I guess.

  6. #6
    Boolit Man
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    I've built a few on the lathe in a four jaw chuck with indicators. You need to part your hair right in the middle and be patient but it can be done and you'll end up with a decent product.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master

    leebuilder's Avatar
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    Thanks for posting. Always a fine read.
    be well
    When you read the fine print you get an education
    when you ignore the fine print you get experience

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    I think you would be lucky if you got an accurate mould by closing an ordinary hinged mould onto the cherry. Remember that it is turning in different directions relative to each of the surfaces.

    I've got a machine vice which closes its jaws on a central point, by means of a spindle that has both right and left hand threads on it. I would skewer both halves of the mould on long rods where short locating studs will later be, and clamp them in the vice, blocked apart just wide enough to get the cherry in. Then I would move them just enough to mill half the cherry's diameter, from the moment it touches each half.

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy
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    pretty kool stuff, thanks for posting that.

    Google has some really good books the problem is finding them twice if you don't bookmark them.

    Rich

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