I do not use a liquid, I use BAC which is a stick type lube.
The item you linked to would run 35.96 per Lb, I just bought some for 20.00 a lb.
I do not use a liquid, I use BAC which is a stick type lube.
The item you linked to would run 35.96 per Lb, I just bought some for 20.00 a lb.
Ron Reed
Oklahoma City, OK
The 4 oz size is surely a lifetime supply for me. I hope it works out for you.
Amen to the brotherhood and thanks to those that share the PC alternative but I am not ready to change as I have good success with the old ways.
I do like sticky lubes at times but usually mix something not so sticky. I also have plenty of mica but would love to hear how others have success in applying it. The few times I tried it is hard to just dust for this clumsy "old" fart although I feel young in this group . Perhaps some kind of squeeze bottle? I have only tried a little pinch in the fingers which didn't work so well.
Also wouldn't the mica defeat the benefits of the lube being sticky as in affect accuracy?
While I switched to Powder coat for 9mm and 40 S&W to reduce mess and cut down on smoke. Some bullets I use like the 200gr, SWC 45 ACP don't powder coat well for me. The build up from powder coat affects my OAL too much. For those I still use normal 50/50 lube and they are quite messy. I thought of trying Bens BLL lube for net run on it. Also, since they are already lubed thru the lubesizer maybe just tumble lube them in straight Johnson's liquid lube may work.
Try a final tumble in JPW thinned just enough for the tumbling. That should leave a dry enough coating. Don't over do it or you will have a mess during seating.
Disclaimer: Reloading and casting I only look at cents/round and ignore any other costs
I use talc because it is easy to find. Just look for the old type baby powder instead of the newer ones made from corn starch. Currently, the Wal-Mart Equate brand is listed at $3.54 for a 2-pack of 22-oz bottles. That's about $1.29 per pound. I've also used it on the rubber hand grips on my Harley when the rubber was getting too soft and sticky. It allows you to delay having to buy and install new grips for a bit. And, of course, it works great as a boot powder to ease putting on slip-on type boots.
There are various types of "mica" and depending upon who you are talking to, it can sometimes be one of the mica minerals and sometimes just be powdered graphite.
Hardness (Mohs Hardness Scale)
Wax (0°) -- 0.2
Talc -- 1
Graphite -- 0.5-1
Diatomaceous Earth -- 1-1.5
Lead -- 1.5
Tin -- 1.5-1.8
Sulfur -- 1.5-2.5
Gypsum -- 1.6-2
Mica -- 2.8
Copper -- 2.5-3
Zinc -- 2.5
Antimony -- 3.0-3.3
Steel -- 5.0-8.5
https://www.tedpella.com/company_html/hardness.htm
Looking at this, it would appear that there are couple of substances that are in the right hardness range. We don't want something that is so hard that it will increase wear on the barrel. Some of the substances might not that great if you get your bullets wet.
One thing that looks worthy of further investigation to me would be the Diatomaceous Earth. It's sold in powder form for insect control and for swimming pool filters (i.e. "D. E. Powder").
Looking on the Home Depot website, I see that a 25-lb bag of it for a swimming pool filter is going for $20.95 ($0.84 per lb) and a 4-lb bag of it for insect control = $8.97 ($2.24 per lb).
Copper powder (325 mesh) is currently $55 for 5 lbs on eBay including shipping. It would be interesting to see how that would work, but I don't particularly have another use for copper powder just in case it doesn't work.
Isn't non corn starch powder risking slowly scouring your bore?
Disclaimer: Reloading and casting I only look at cents/round and ignore any other costs
I have had good luck with just plain old corn starch. And you can't hardly get any cheaper than that.
Diatomaceous earth would scare the bejeebers out of to run down my bore. The primary component is silica (silicon dioxide) with is a 7 on the Mohs scale. It would essentially be sandpaper blasting down the bore.
NRA Endowment Member
Armed people don't march into gas chambers.
According to the link that I posted, Diatomaceous Earth has a hardness of 1-1.5.
According to wiki,
As such, that would probably not be the best D-E to use for a bullet powder. Probably the insecticide one would be better.Diatomite produced for pool filters is treated with high heat (calcination) and a fluxing agent (soda ash), causing the formerly harmless amorphous silicon dioxide to assume its crystalline form
For now, I'll stay with talc.
Talc should work very well......and keep your keister dry at the same time!!!!!!
banger
Or go over to Carnauba Red. It's less sticky. If you don't want to get a heater, a hairdryer, soldering iron or heat gun will do you for the little wisp of heat it needs.
+1 on spritzing with rubbing alcohol. I keep a spray bottle on the bench when lube/sizing. Give them a spray before placing in the storage container.
PJ
NRA Benefactor Member
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |