Read the articles on coated versus uncoated rods. The coating can pick up debris which then makes it's abrasive. This is one of those never ending debates.
Read the articles on coated versus uncoated rods. The coating can pick up debris which then makes it's abrasive. This is one of those never ending debates.
I know the debates. My opinion is that a rod shouldn't touch the barrel at all, so it really shouldn't matter if the rod is coated or not. However if the rod does touch I'd like for it to have a barrier or buffer between the metal cleaning rod and my barrel. That's just my opinion, it doesn't mean that I'm right.
I select a rod that has a large diameter relative to the bore to be cleaned. The rod needs to be stiff so as not to slap the bore interior. I have multiple rods in various diameters to choose from. For example, use a rod designed for a 6 mm to clean your 6.5 mm bore and not a .22 caliber rod. Do whatever is necessary to keep the back (handle) end of the rod centered in the bore. One reason I like Bore Tech rods is that they have the best thruster bearings in their handles that I have encountered in any cleaning rod. They turn freely under load. Use a tight fitting patch but not too tight as it will induce rod slap.
I have coated and uncoated rods. The choice between the two no longer matters to me. I wipe the rod clean of debris before use and repeat frequently while cleaning. TJ
I'm fond of the Pro-Shot stainless one piece rods, and have a couple vinyl coated steel generic rods (Outers?) along with a Otis system to throw in my backpack and a 3/8" brass rod for my muzzleloaders. I use protectors if I have to clean from the front end and chamber guides for my bolt rifles.
"NUTS" A. Clement McAullife
my opinion on a carbon fiber cleaning rod is that i wouldnt put one in a barrel i care about. i agree a rod shouldnt touch the bore, but they do so.... having seen enough evidence of what carbon fiber arrows do to arrow rests, there's no way id ever stick one in a good barrel.
Tipton.
I have 4 Dewey rods: 17; 2- 22cf, and 270+. On one of the older 22cf rods I got it stuck, don't remember how but after I tapped it out the bearing seized and is now pretty useless. I've gotten into the habit of wiping the rod with a clean, solvent-dampened patch after every pass while cleaning.
The Tipton handle w/bearings seems to be much more robust than the Dewey and the handle is also larger(man-sized?).
I'll never buy another Dewey.
I just got a 44" Professional Grade from Brownells. Made by Montana X-treme. It's a coated rod with dual ball bearings in the handle which is made from Aluminum. Really like the length as the 44"s allow breech cleaning of even my Sharps with 34" barrel without getting near any wood. It is available in 4 lengths (30", 36", 44", & 54"). It also comes in a few sizes. I got the one sized for .270 to .50.
Haven't had but a few chances to use it, but I see no reason to replace it. Ever.
I can not know what I don't know.
My favorite is my Dad's old Marble's brass cleaning rod. It has a wood handle & dates from the late 40's orearly 50's. I'm 63 and I still use it.
DRSLYR
Like some other folks, I bought a .22 caliber Parker Hale rod in the late 1970s and loved it – with the exception of the adapter needed for US cleaning rods – but you only needed one adapter. A few years later I found a .30 cal. Parker Hale rod and bought one of those. I had to stop using the .22 rod when the coating started cracking and breaking off. Unfortunately the .30 cal rod got bent in a move. Now I have a .22 and a .30 Dewey rod which should last the rest of my life. Also, a guy at work gave me two .30 cal rods made by “Recreational Specialties” from Durango Colorado. They don’t have the roller handles but each came with a brass bore guide and work great on single shot rifles and muzzleloaders.
Decided to buy a new rod for 22 pistol and bought one of the Dewey coated rods. Disappointed to see after only 2 or 3 uses on S&W 41 and 17 the coating near front tip is beginning to wear off to reveal what appears to be steel rod underneath.
All the old gunsmithing books recommend quarter-inch drill rod with a handle installed. Hard and polished. Like everybody else on the thread, I have an assortment. I like the Tipton for pistols, and the bore snake for .22LRs. The big Dewey GI rod is hard to beat for Garands and M14s, but the coating comes off pretty easily if you aren't very careful with them. Probably the best thing is any good quality rod that is just barely long enough for the gun it is cleaning, and as large in diameter as will readily fit.
That bit about the drill rod is interesting. I can see why it would be a good cleaning rod, it's stiff and too hard for anything to embed in.
Disappointed with new Dewey 22 cal pistol rod. Black "protective" coating wearing off rod after a couple cleanings of S&W 41 and 17 to expose steel rod.
It's difficult to avoid that, Sam. That is why I use the Bore Snake for most .22LR cleaning, unless leading is really bad and groups have gone south.
I am a Tipton carbon fiber cleaning rods. I have 3 so far and need 1 more to finish off
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |