I need a Savage Barrel Lug Wrench

[brstevns]

Most members know I am on a very small SS income so trying to find a Savage Barrel Nut Wrench for cheap. Hoping someone has a old one they don't need lying around. Going to try to change barrels on a Stevens 200 for myself and a cousin in the same shoes.

[Menner]

Hey br
I have one that I would loan you I don't see a need for it in the near future but I would need it back because I have a friend that is going to rebarrel his savage this fall but would not need it until then.
So if you can't find one to buy give me a PM
Tony

[1johnlb]

I have 3 that came with ershaw barrels, you can have one for the price of shipping. I think it will fit a flat rate envolop.

[brstevns]

I have 3 that came with ershaw barrels, you can have one for the price of shipping. I think it will fit a flat rate envolop.

PM sent

[brstevns]

God Bless the generous members of castboolits. They have help this old man so very much.

[1johnlb]

Pm answered.

[Bad Water Bill]

Now you will have to build your own BBL or action vice.

Not hard to do with a little creativity.

If this OLD man could do it it should be a piece of cake for you young whipper snappers.

Yes I have 5 Savage actions and about 10 BBLS.

Also do not forget you WILL need headspace gauges.

Yes there are ways to get around those as well.

[brstevns]

Now you will have to build your own BBL or action vice.

Not hard to do with a little creativity.

If this OLD man could do it it should be a piece of cake for you young whipper snappers.

Yes I have 5 Savage actions and about 10 BBLS.

Also do not forget you WILL need headspace gauges.

Yes there are ways to get around those as well.

Well not a young whipper snapper but I am going to give her a try. Any suggestions on making a vice? Oak or Hard maple blocks, what size hole to drill etc. ?

[Artful]

Your trying to emulate
http://www.midwayusa.com/Product/226...-wood-bushings

or Tubb

Action wrench
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/719...8-799-receiver

home made

cruder homemade
[img][/img]
some links
http://www.ehow.com/how_10027306_make-barrel-vise.html
http://www.shootingtimes.com/gunsmit...dyhome_200910/

some tips
Don't forget to apply heat to the Nut to get it to expand and release any thread locker compound used by the factory.
http://www.thehighroad.org/archive/i.../t-554007.html

as to hard or soft wood. Use Oak or Maple. I use Maple as the grain structure is tighter and it doesn't have such a chance of splitting. Drill your hole across the grain. If you drill with the grain it will split. You want the grain running perpendicular to the bore.

You want to drill a round hole about 1/32 smaller than barrel outside diameter. Now go to the nearest bowling lane and buy a bag of rosin used on bowlers fingers. Dust the blocks with rosin before applying them to the barrel. Put your blocks in the vise and crank it up for all your worth. You want it tight. Very tight. Marks on the barrel come from slipping. The rosin and a TIGHT fixture will prevent slipping.

When I remove receivers from barrels I encounter some that are VERY tight or installed with loctite. It takes a strong barrel press...Hard blocks...lots of hydraulic pressure....a very substantial action wrench and sometimes a cheater pipe to get them loose. A weak block set and loose clamping pressure with no rosin is a recipe for scuffed finishes.

You can also make good barrel blocks by using epoxy glue to make a perfect fit on the barrel.
To do this, you coat the barrel with wax or another good release agent and cast one block at a time.

Start out with two blocks of wood clamped in a vise or one block of wood.
Drill a hole slightly larger than the barrel diameter through the blocks, then either separate the two or cut the one piece in half.

Wax the barrel well, then put epoxy glue in one of the blocks, clamp to the barrel and allow to harden. Remove that block and do the other block, then after curing for 24 hours, clean the blocks out with paint thinner to remove the release agent.
Apply rosin and you're ready.
Note that this only works for most barrels if you use a real hydraulic gunsmith's barrel vise.
Most gun barrels are too tight to use any size of shop vise, including the 100 pound monster vises. Even they simply can't grip tight enough for most barrels. Try to remove most gun barrels with a shop vise and the barrel will spin in the blocks, stripping the finish.

Flash hiders and muzzle attachments are usually not that tight, however, note that many rifles built during the assault weapon ban had muzzle attachments that are either blind pinned, welded, or brazed on and WILL NOT screw off. Make sure you don't have one of those.

AR rifles have at least three tension washer types.
Type one is a standard split tension washer.
Type two is a "peel" washer that is layers of washers put together. You peel off washers to allow aligning the A2 type flash hider.
Type three is the "crush" washer. These you simply turn the barrel attachment until tight, then force it farther until the hider aligns properly.
These crush washers are ONE TIME use only. If you break tension by removing the hider, you need a new washer.

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another video for Savages
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKuN0scQQNw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPlFtskCwng

[1johnlb]

I have 3 savages and all were factory barrels. I clamp the receiver in a vise with bolt installed between 2 scrap pieces of 2x4 that fit the flat spots of the reciever (top and bottom), not super tight but tight enough to support the weight of the barrel ,being careful not to get the trigger caught in the vise. The trigger should be at 3 or 9 o'clock position in the typical vise. Then install the wrench and hold it tight from the side and smack the #*&/ out of it hard the first time with a 2 pound hammer. This exerts no perceived torque on the reciever or blocks and the nut breaks loose like it was never tight and yes they had the lock tight or whatever it was on the threads, but doing it like this was as easy as eat'n pie.

I used soft pine 2x4 scrap, so when you clamp down on the receiver it compresses and forms somewhat to the receiver, it doesn't take much to hold it.

[Bad Water Bill]

SOME good advice there.

Jim Briggs will definitely do everything in his power to make you happy.

I bought my Shilen SS bull bbl 20 Var Targ from Jim and could not chamber a round so Jim paid for the return postage then WE did a conference call to Shilen.

BBL went back to Shilen and I (with lots of help from Jim) was moved to the head of the repair list.

After I received the corrected bbl Jim made 3-4 more calls to me to make sure every thing was good and I was happy with his service.

Yes you can check your fit without a gauge set and I have done it several times but will NOT post it here for legal reasons.

Not sure about today but when I was a member of loooong standing on the SS site Savage assured us that they NEVER used loc tite on their products.

Also the (at that time guru of Savage gunsmithing) said he had removed thousands of BBLs and never saw any evidence of anything being used to lock the bbls.

Yes Fred is a creative gunsmith and makes his own version of most of the tools mentioned both here and in the video and did present me with one of his heavy duty nut wrenches at a Indiana Savage shoot at Youngs 1 K range.

The next question is do you have the OLD notched nut or the NEW tapered nut?

[brstevns]

This is starting to sound like a lot of fun and a good way of taking ones frustrations out on that barrel wrench.

[brstevns]

Hmmm! Wondering if a pipe vise could be rigged to use as a barrel vise?

[Artful]

I think it could depending upon the style of pipe vise and the padding you use

[brstevns]

The one I have is a lot older and much heavier then the one pictured. If i use some good oak or maple blocks I am thinking it should work.

[223tenx]

I bought a rubber welcome mat at the Dollar General. A very tacky one is all you need if you have a regular vise. The barrel will not slip if wrapped with a rubber mat in a bench vise. Use a brass hammer and a couple of good whacks and the nut will come loose. Maybe squirt a little WD-40 or Kroil on it first. I read somewhere that Savage has used thread locker on some guns. I've changed two this way with no problems. I use a very little anti-seize on the shank when tightening the nut.