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Thread: Listen up Newbies - No Kaboom reloading the Geezer way

  1. #1
    Boolit Grand Master Char-Gar's Avatar
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    Listen up Newbies - No Kaboom reloading the Geezer way

    Internet gun boards are replete with threads about blow up firearms and injured body parts these days, often with graphic pictures. Discussion abounds about metallurgy, design, an manufacturing tolerances etc, etc, etc., when in reality with about a 98% certainty, it was too much of the right or wrong powder that did the deed. Reloading can be destructive to the firearm and your body if the eye is not kept on the ball.

    On such a recent thread, it was remarked that everybody makes mistakes and stuff like this was just part of the reloading game. I was quick to dispute that, saying along the way, that don't load over pressure rounds and have not done so in 57 years of reloading. In rapid succession, I was called arrogant, condescending and even someone who was not telling the truth. It seem inconceivable to some that a person could reload over a very long time and not blow up a firearm.

    I was reloading a batch of 38 Specials today and thought I would take a few pics and add a few comments and notes to show how I do "no kaboom" reloading. Before you say it, yes, I know this is to slow and labor intensive for most folks these days, but this is the way I have been doing it for a very long time and have been kaboomless. No firearms has ever been damaged in the least now has anybody had even a slight injury. Well, I did trip over my own feet at the range once time and turn an ankle, but that was not reloading related. Here is now I do it;

    1. Cases are sized, primed and mouth expanded and place upside down in a loading block.

    2. My powder measure is checked for the correct charge each time I begin. I used fixed rotor measures or a battery of adjustable Lyman 55s, each set up for one charge. Even so I check the measure each time I use it.

    3. I only have on powder out and I read the container aloud before I pour it in the measure. Murphy the shop cat does not seem to notice or be bothered by it.

    4. I remove an upside down case from the block and look inside to make sure it is empty.

    5. I charge the case with the measure.

    6. I look inside the case again to make certain it has a powder charge of correct height.

    7. I place a bullet into the case and start it by hand, replaced it in the block before I pick up another upside down case and repeat steps 4 - 6.

    8. I then take the blocks with the charged cases and started bullets to the reloading press, where the bullets are seated and the case mouth crimped.

    There will be no under or over pressure rounds in the batch..without exception, period!

    Additional notes:

    I much prefer a Lyman two step expander because it enable me to start the bullet and have it say in the case, in good alignment. I never shave lead from the bullet when seating by doing this.

    This batch of cases are 1978 Lake City USGI 38 Special cases. I have about 5,000 of them. They are long lasting. I also have some WCC USGI brass and they are of lesser quality, but still usable. I also have some R-P USGI 38 Special brass, but they are junk. I load them once and eject them into a scrap bucket for recycling. I trim each case to a uniform length the first time I use it.

    The bullets in the pictured reloads are good ol Lyman 358311 RN. I load this over 3/Bullseye for range use only. This is not a top end load, but I have about a dozen 38 Special handguns, some as old as 100 years and this pressure load will keep them shooting for several lifetimes more. When I see this RN bullet in a 38 Special case, I know what the powder charge is. This load will shoot every bit as well as a match wadcutter load, as least as far as I can determine, by holding the handgun in my hand and shooting at paper targets. I do load other bullets with heavier powder charges for other purposes.

    I always try several loaded and crimped rounds into the cylinder of several sixguns (Colt and Smith and Wesson) before I load the batch. This prevents me from having to break down loads because they are over crimped and won't chamber properly. Best to take the time now, and not later after they are all done.

    There is a VERY GOOD reason why the use of reloaded/handloaded ammo voids the warrantee on all firearms made. The manufactures know that anything less that total concentration and care can result in a damaged firearm and/or shooter. This is called a clue about how dangerous handloading can be when done improperly.

    Now the pics;

    Attachment 139742
    Last edited by Char-Gar; 05-18-2015 at 02:47 PM.
    Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master Pb2au's Avatar
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    Great post Char. Many thanks for it.
    Take heed here friends, many lessons were just laid at your feet.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    I've been reloading for OVER 50 years(I am 70) and haven't blown up a gun yet! I've had a few "sticky" ejections though. Mostly from top end loads from rifle and pistol. The first sticky ends that test! Knock on wood that I haven't jinxed myself.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy tryNto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pb2au View Post
    Great post Char. Many thanks for it.
    Take heed here friends, many lessons were just laid at your feet.
    I have to agree, have always enjoyed and learned from your posts.

    Thank you

    Those nay-sayers are just jealous. keep up the good work.
    Casting, Reloading & Shooting

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I too, have never (in over 50 years) charged a case with the wrong powder or an over/under charge. As far as I know neither has anyone I taught.
    It's called paying attention, like your life depends on it, because it literally does. Maybe even twice.
    In a defensive situation, the gun doesn't pick and choose who the bad guy is. You may have already made that choice at the bench without looking. Would be a shame to read that when you had to defend yourself, the gun kaboomed, and the bad guy walked away, leaving you dead or maimed from a wrong load.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master dudel's Avatar
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    Good advice. Similar to how I load when using the RockChucker. Further, I would advise staying away from maximum loads till you have some experience under your belt, and equipment you can trust (weapons, measures, scales and calipers).

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    Great post, being careful doesn't take that long and is well worth the effort. I reload on a single stage press and only process 10-12 pistol or rifle rounds at a time, slow but gives time to double check as I go along. One powder on the bench and double check the load as I pour.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master


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    Great advice.
    Was taught reloading when I was 14. WOW! that long ago. I am now 65+. So far no KA-BOOMS, BUT, I have caught things that I should not have happened at the reloading table. I was taught by a friend of the family who had years of experience reloading, and years of competitive shooting (with his reloads).
    One MUST constantly be on their guard from themselves. If one gets complacent and lax, and starts to deviate from their normal sequence that has proven safe and effective, one can probably be assured that sooner or later there will be a problem to say the least.
    It would be who of all of the new reloaders to get a "system" that works for them that it fool proof, and is easy to duplicate, and stick with it. And for the more experienced reloaders to continue with their proven (to them) system.
    Jack

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy
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    I do something similar when loading w/ the single stage (not the progressive). I start with an empty loading tray, and a small container of cases under or next to the measure. I pick one up, charge it from the powder measure, and only then does it go into the loading tray. I never put empty cases in a loading tray. Ever.

    On the progressive, I use the RCBS Lockout Die to assess powder levels with each case; if the amount is not very close to normal, the Lockout Die locks up the press. I'm not ever loading at max, so I have room for error. Here's some cases with corks driven down to simulate different powder levels; the one in the middle is correct, the others will lock up the press.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Unfortunately, I can't say I've never had a gun blow up in my hand, because I have. To this day I don't know why. The only thing that made any sense was that the case had a structural failure. Blew out the extractor of my LC9, and I was unhurt. Other than my pride, that is.

    Here's the case:

    Click image for larger version. 

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  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Good post. I would like to add that I check my case length and since I use progressive presses I prefer a powder that cannot be double charged because the standard volume fills more than half the case. I too have now been handloading for 52 years and have never had an accident, but I do worry as with old age comes attention deficit, so I pay a lot more attention to the process than I did in my younger days. Handloading is a lot safer that most think.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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    Being a newbie compared to you (I have only been casting and loading about 45 years) I find it interesting how similar my method is to yours. I don't read out loud.
    NRA Benefactor Member NRA Golden Eagle

  12. #12
    Boolit Master

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    Outstanding post Charles!

    I have only been loading 40 years and I 100% agree. My father taught me the exact method you describe. It is the method I will teach my son.

    SS
    NRA Life Member Since 1981



    "The very atmosphere of firearms anywhere and everywhere restrains evil interference - they deserve a place of honor with all that's good"-- George Washington

    II Corinthians 4:8-9. We are hard-pressed on every side, yet not crushed; we are perplexed, but not in despair; persecuted but not forsaken, struck down, but not destroyed."

    Psalms 25:2 O my God, I trust in thee: let me not be ashamed, let not mine enemies triumph over me.

    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    I started reloading in 1959 however long that is [you do the math] and I have never even damaged a gun much less destroyed one.
    A GUN THAT'S COCKED AND UNLOADED AIN'T GOOD FOR NUTHIN'........... ROOSTER COGBURN

  14. #14
    Boolit Master BNE's Avatar
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    When I talk to people about reloading I always show them that I have all my fingers and both eyes and my guns have not been damaged. I intend to keep it that way!

    Good post. I have a similar methodology. I did mix a powder once when I was putting powder away and put it in the wrong container. I caught it immediately, but wasted a small amount of powder.

    Compared to you guys I am the REAL newbie in this thread as I have only been reloading for 14 years.
    I'm a Happy Clinger.

  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master
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    That is how I have always done it.....one at at a time with an established sequence of positions and boolit set in the charged cases.

    No loading all the cases at the same time as some do..........too may things can distract you!

    Here's hoping no one on here ever has a double charge!

    banger

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy
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    Great post and exellent read, thank you. I must admit that I too am anal about my reloading routine. One thing I always stress but no more important than all the other steps...the ONLY time a case is open end up in the loading block is when there IS powder in it.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master opos's Avatar
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    78 in a couple of months..started reloading in about 1958 or 59..Started with a single stage press and weighing every charge....I still use a single stage press and weigh every load...I don't load with anyone else around...I don't have the radio or tv on when loading..I don't load if I get tired or distracted. Boring to say the least but that's how I like it...I batch process..one phase at a time...never have more than one primer package and one powder bottle on the bench at the same time...My biggest "near misses" have come when the small poise on my 505 RCBS scale gets "jiggled" about 1/10 of a grain..seldom happens but has...As I'm using the dipper to dip the powder I make it a step to not dump it into the pan until I give a quick peek at the 1/10 grain poise. I've caught it a few times over the years but since I never load to maximum on anything..1/10 grain probably would not be a big issue...old and slow with no place to go and I like relaxing with a morning of reloading "my way"

  18. #18
    Boolit Master



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    I just responded to a posted question from a member with less than 100 posts. He has a quantity of surplus 8mm Mauser ammunition and wanted to know, since the powder "looks like" IMR 4064, could he just use that data for other calibers?

    I told him no, in no uncertain terms. It's a common mistake but it's outlined in every reloading manual that I've ever seen.....never experiment with an unknown powder with an unknown burn rate unless you know what you're doing. I DO know what I'm doing, but my many years are a testament to my caution and good sense.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master
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    Once many years ago I got distracted and loaded a few rounds with no powder. That situation can be just as dangerous as an overcharge. I was lucky - there was no damage, no kabooms, just squibs. Even so, that experience made an old lady out of me when I'm at the loading bench. I'm just as worried about NO powder as I am about the wrong powder or a double charge, and using a one-at-a-time-then-seat-the-bullet method I fear I'll get distracted and seat on an empty case. There's really no protection against THAT particular brain fail using the one-at-a-time method.
    <
    My own system varies in that area. Only one powder container on the bench - ever - and just as important only one box of bullets. Double check the data - read it again - double check the scale zero and scale setting and the powder measure. After all that I stand the primed and ready cases in a loading block and then charge them all. I charge up and down the rows in a methodical fashion and count as I throw the measure. I want to say "fifty" when I'm charging that last case. After charging I set the loading block on the bench and then visually check the powder level in each case using a flashlight to make it easy to see. I view the block methodically - back and forth and then up and down, looking for cases with no powder or a double charge. I move my head back slightly making it easier to spot a difference in charge height and view them again. Only then do I seat the bullets.
    <
    This method works very well on straight-sided pistol cases and full charges in bottle-necked rifle cases where it's easy to see the powder. I wouldn't use it for tiny charges in narrow-mouth rifle brass that made it difficult to check the charge height. If I were loading such a recipe I'd probably resort to the one-at-a-time method that Char-Gar described.
    <
    Whatever method you use - it's important to have a well thought-out system and to follow it without deviation. Don't allow yourself to hurry at the loading bench. Concentration on the task at hand is your life preserver, and distraction your deadly enemy.
    <
    I've personally witnessed a couple of guns destroyed by bad hand loads. (Not my guns and not my loads, but I was there when it happened.) In other events that I didn't actually witness, one friend lost an eye when he blew up a handgun with a charge of the wrong powder and another friend destroyed a beautiful Colt SAA and had to get pieces of it removed from his body. I'm just saying kabooms from bad handloads are not as unusual as we might wish. It can happen, it DOES happen - don't let it happen to you. Be careful out there!
    <
    Uncle R.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master


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    Great post and good pictures. However I "out geezer" you. When I charge the case with powder, it goes immediately to the shellholder and gets a bullet seated and crimped.

    I have been reloading a long time too. I had one years experience 30 times over for the first 30 years. Now I am gaining momentum by reading posts like this.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check