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Thread: I am getting an old Winchester 1892 in 38-40 soon, have a die question

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    I am getting an old Winchester 1892 in 38-40 soon, have a die question

    I am being gifted said rifle soon(40 caliber for my 40th birthday) and have been reading as much as possible to load for it. A lot of info out there about the shoulder moving forward on firing and the dies not moving it back making for poor bullet pull. People cut down dies, some leave it alone and just crimp, and at least one article says RCBS has the right sizer since the early '80s. What die brand(s) are going to have a sizer that puts a neck back on the case without modifying the die?

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    So, I punch in 38-40 in the computer browser,and ... pick one
    http://www.midwayusa.com/find?dimensionids=11992
    Regards
    John

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Boy View Post
    So, I punch in 38-40 in the computer browser,and ... pick one
    http://www.midwayusa.com/find?dimensionids=11992
    Then why do so many talk about having to grind down their dies to get them to size right?

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Tex -

    Howdy !

    IMHO - $$$ a LEE die set, for .38-40 .

    They have a money back guarantee should the dies not work well for you ( .... " load the most accurate ammunition " ).
    Give ' em a try.


    With regards,
    357Mag

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Tex I have a lee die set that works well , for me . When you get your 92 look it over and slug the barrel . Size your boolits accordingly . remember that it is a 38-40 Not a .44 magnum . A chamber cast will go a long way in determining what you have/need . The 38-40 has a rim , and a shoulder , there fore size just enough to to set the shoulder to a " crush fit " . Then start with a light bell just enough to start the boolit . the a light crimp if needed . Too much crimp will buckle cases . alwasy lube your cases so they won't stick in the die , too much lube will "dent" them .

  6. #6
    Boolit Master

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    For my '92 made in 1895 I use the Lee dies and crimp with the Lee factory crimp die. I have had no problems.
    NRA Benefactor Member NRA Golden Eagle

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    Then why do so many talk about having to grind down their dies to get them to size right?
    Beats me, never talked to anyone about their issue! Have any idea which vendor's mold is made incorrectly?

    And is the issue only with Rugers?
    http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB3/vie...p?f=11&t=21534
    Last edited by John Boy; 04-29-2015 at 05:29 PM.
    Regards
    John

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Boy View Post
    Beats me, never talked to anyone about their issue! Have any idea which vendor's mold is made incorrectly?

    And is the issue only with Rugers?
    http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB3/vie...p?f=11&t=21534


    Wow, that is incredibly helpful!

    I was just saying in my research while waiting for the rifle that chamber dimensions vary from the case dimensions and some die makers make FL dies that don't give you enough neck for good neck tension. A crimp is not a replacement for good neck tension IMHO, and I wanted to know who has had success, or problems, with which dies. I thought it was a valid question that shouldn't be subject to unhelpful ridicule.

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    Sako - here's some help:
    * Do a chamber cast of your rifle
    * Match it to a standard SAAMI diagram ...

    Then see if your chamber cast matches! If it does, then any of the vendor's dies would be cut based on the specification and work for your rifle. If not, then recommend you send your chamber cast information to CH4D and have a custon die made
    On the CAS posse I shoot with, 2 of the shooters use original 38-40 rifles and never have heard in discussion from them they had to have a custom die made for their reloads
    Regards
    John

  10. #10
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    HANDLOADER/RIFLE magazine had a paperback special edition on lever actions some years ago...mine are in storage 50 miles away currrently. There was some discussion on reloading 38/40 and 44/40 and chamber dimension issues. One of the major manufacturers would make custom reloading dies...at a reasonable price...from 4 casings fired in YOUR gun. I am inferring that your gun is an heirloom or family treasure, so I'd bite the bullet and get the custom dies and an appropriate boolit mould. Someone else have info on which manufacturer?

    Allegedly RUGER made some 38/40 BLACKHAWKS with extremely tight chambers. They had considerably higher velocity with commercial "cowboy loads" than was advertised...too high for SASS rules. I don't recall which gunwriter reported this.

    Some respondents are less than helpful...ignore them and hopefully they will go away. You asked some valid questions and got a less than respectful reply. I will admit to aggravating some "stuffed shirts" BUT this isn't your case.

    PS I had a 38/40 1892 back in 1966. Talk about an education!

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    I have a couple of .38WCF Winchesters (1892) as well as the Ruger .38-40/10mm convertible revolver. I use plain-Jane Lyman dies, and only problem I had waaaay back, was my denting and bulging the cases. I was advised to use Imperial wax (Redding sells it now), and these problems went away. I do use the Lee Factory Crimp Die on this caliber, as well as pretty much all of my reloads.
    Happy birthday! And, congrats on getting what I believe to be the BEST caliber firearm of its day!
    georgerkahn

  12. #12
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    I have a 92 38-40 from the same time era (circa 1895) that I use 180 lfp's. My die set is the RCBS cowboy dies. I use only lead & I like the quality of this die set, & although I've only run a few hundred rounds so far, I've had no issues. Loading hasn't been a problem as long as you pay attention since the cartridge mouth is really thin & the loaded ammo feeds & shoots really well. I use a medium crimp & check aol & trim the long ones. They're "real purty" too! Lol

  13. #13
    Le Loup Solitaire
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    I shoot the 38-40 in a Winchester 73 and the Ruger (buckeye) revolver. I use the Lyman 401043 which is supposed to be the original design, but it was designed for use with black powder so I have had to crimp on the front of the forward band to get proper OAL for correct feeding in the 73. No prob in the Ruger. I tried trimming the cases shorter a bit and that worked, but case necks in the 38/40 are kind of thin to start with and going easy on them is a better way to go. LLS.

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I think I'm going to the range with my shooting buddy this weekend, he has a few 38-40's that he loads BP cartridges for. I'll PM you when I hear from him but I think we're shooting late Sunday morning.
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  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    Thanks for the help and suggestions everyone. It gives me an idea of what to add to my wants and needs list for this caliber.

    Quote Originally Posted by TXGunNut View Post
    I think I'm going to the range with my shooting buddy this weekend, he has a few 38-40's that he loads BP cartridges for. I'll PM you when I hear from him but I think we're shooting late Sunday morning.
    No problem, I don't expect to see the rifle for a few more weeks when it makes its way up from Houston.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master

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    They are a hoot to shoot! Congrats, you'll have a ton of fun!

  17. #17
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    Has anyone use 44/40 brass to make 38/40 ?

  18. #18
    Boolit Bub
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    When I got my 38-40 back in the mid 80's brass was hard to find. I lightly lubed 44-40 brass and ran them through the 38-40 die. Worked great. Just don't use too much lube.

  19. #19
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    Just don't use too much lube.
    Fact! Excess lube in the case in the FL die will be compressed against the case developing a nice crease.
    Having reformed many different calibers and used several of the commercial lube ... the best I've found that only needs a light finger wipe is Bag Balm
    Regards
    John

  20. #20
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    The "Bag Balm" use intrigues me... perhaps my next trip to Agway will find some in my cart. A big "++++" re just a wee bit too much re lub on the thin .38wcf cases! I ruined quite a few from the resultant creases as John Boy mentioned. I have used Imperial Wax -- similarly, just a scant application from waxy fingers -- with 100% success. But... again -- the Bag Balm intrigues me...
    BEST!
    georgerkahn

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check