I used the paste stuff until got it figured out & 10 seconds is just right for 308-06 based cases, 373/338 & mags took 11-12
I used the paste stuff until got it figured out & 10 seconds is just right for 308-06 based cases, 373/338 & mags took 11-12
I also anneal mine in lead. I set my pid on 710 degrees. I leave the primer in the brass. I use graphite powder on the neck of the brass. I took a small piece of flat iron and drilled holes in it to hold 4 to 5 pieces of brass. I use the hand method on one brass and time it. Then I use the flat iron I made to do 4 to 5 at a time and then drop them in water. If the lead is sticking on the brass you need to hold it in the lead a little longer. Been doing this sometime with no problems. Tom
Leaving the spent primer in helps keep the lead out of the inside and also using straight lead and not an alloy also helps. My Dad did some rifle cases for me and I had 10 or 15 left that didn't make the annealing so I did the remaining cases. I used WW alloy the first few and lead stuck all over, then much better with straight lead. Keeping the primer in traps the air inside the case and won't let the alloy into the inside.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |