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Thread: Anealing by dipping case necks in hot lead?

  1. #21
    Banned
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    1,243
    I used the paste stuff until got it figured out & 10 seconds is just right for 308-06 based cases, 373/338 & mags took 11-12

  2. #22
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    67
    I also anneal mine in lead. I set my pid on 710 degrees. I leave the primer in the brass. I use graphite powder on the neck of the brass. I took a small piece of flat iron and drilled holes in it to hold 4 to 5 pieces of brass. I use the hand method on one brass and time it. Then I use the flat iron I made to do 4 to 5 at a time and then drop them in water. If the lead is sticking on the brass you need to hold it in the lead a little longer. Been doing this sometime with no problems. Tom

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
    RobS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    4,518
    Leaving the spent primer in helps keep the lead out of the inside and also using straight lead and not an alloy also helps. My Dad did some rifle cases for me and I had 10 or 15 left that didn't make the annealing so I did the remaining cases. I used WW alloy the first few and lead stuck all over, then much better with straight lead. Keeping the primer in traps the air inside the case and won't let the alloy into the inside.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check