Advice for .30 Carbine load?

[Newtire]

Newtire, I wasn't aware that there are two versions of 311359; that's interesting.

This mould that throws the 115 grain boolits is actually a Lachmiller mould, not a Lyman. Sure works well though. The Lyman specs say 115 grain but mine is 130 grains from the Lyman mould.

[rondog]

OK, I pulled about 15 rounds apart last night, and the powder was compressed in each one. Packed enough I needed a toothpick to loosen it up so I could dump it. Charges were all around 15.2-15.3.

These 100gr. hollowpoint bullets are longer than 110gr. FMJ's by almost 1/8", so they seat deeper and compress the powder. Adding more powder will only make the compaction tighter.

How much of an issue is this with H110? Should I go with 2400 or 4227? I have a little 2400 and a lot of 4227. Should I try magnum primers? Or should I try to call Hodgden and beg for advice?

I hesitate to call because, like any corporation, their lawyers will protect the co. at all costs, and require answers to be sanitized for their protection, and not really real-world AFA what you can actually do safely. Been my experience anyway, the corporate *** comes first.

[Newtire]

OK, I pulled about 15 rounds apart last night, and the powder was compressed in each one. Packed enough I needed a toothpick to loosen it up so I could dump it. Charges were all around 15.2-15.3.

These 100gr. hollowpoint bullets are longer than 110gr. FMJ's by almost 1/8", so they seat deeper and compress the powder. Adding more powder will only make the compaction tighter.

How much of an issue is this with H110? Should I go with 2400 or 4227? I have a little 2400 and a lot of 4227. Should I try magnum primers? Or should I try to call Hodgden and beg for advice?

I hesitate to call because, like any corporation, their lawyers will protect the co. at all costs, and require answers to be sanitized for their protection, and not really real-world AFA what you can actually do safely. Been my experience anyway, the corporate *** comes first.

I would load up a few of each and see how it goes. I had some troubles with IMR 4227 leaving alot of granules in the chamber and causing the subsequent rounds to have little dimples in the brass but maybe that could be eliminated by using a magnum primer or going up closer to the top end of the load? 2400 never gave me that trouble but had such great luck with W-296 or H-110 that I just stuck with that. I used standard primers in all the loadings for what it's worth.

[Possumcop]

For my M1 carbines, I normally load 110gr. FMJ's with 15gr. of H110/Win296. Works great, shoots great.

But I've got some 100gr. Barnes all copper hollowpoints, deer and S/D bullets, that I don't have any data for. Since they're lighter, I figured a little more powder was in order, so I loaded them at 15.3gr. of H110.

Bah - mouse fart loads! Felt like a .32acp carbine, and didn't even cycle the action enough to load the next round.

So, they need to be hotter. But how much is enough, and how much is too much? I don't have a chrono to check them with. And I can't find load data for 100gr. jacketed bullets, let alone solid copper ones. Barnes is no help, they won't commit to more than 14.5.

What sez ye? Any suggestions? I know somebody here's gotta have a better reference! Would 16gr. be enough? Too much?

What primers are you using?

Are you seeing a lot of unburned powder kernels after firing?

It sounds like you need more, or faster burning, more easily ignited powder, but without access to a chrono you could get into dangerous territory pretty easily. I'd worry about using data developed for the Speer "Plinker", since its a lead core round nose. The solid copper "X" with that big hollowpoint is likely to take up a lot more space in the case.

I think 2400 would probably be a better powder for your application since it takes up less space, ignites easier and builds pressure quicker than H110/W296.

Start low and work up carefully.