And 100 ml will weigh 79g, roughly. That is roughly 1220 gr.
amazing what a conversion table can tell you
And 100 ml will weigh 79g, roughly. That is roughly 1220 gr.
amazing what a conversion table can tell you
You will learn far more at the casting, loading, and shooting bench than you ever will at a computer bench.
This is Black 1035 baked for 15 minutes at 375 with 1cc per pound and failing the wipe test. I don't really see a difference in the coating from when I baked at a higher temperature. Someone asked if i was using good acetone, and it is a new bottle I purchased from Home Depot.
The coating isn't slick like the liquid (I couldn't get to work either) it is kind of chaulky feeling, not slick. I'm not sure if that is supposed to be that way, but I'm guessing it isn't.
What is aggravating about all of this is other people are getting this to work so easily and I'm running out of bullets to coat before I have to cast more.
Atygrit
My initial suggestion is, take some from previous batch, turn up your oven to 390F, and when oven is at set 390F, cook these for another 10 minutes, and do a comparison.
There is no difference between powdered version and solvent versions.
The ingredients are same.
If it is removable with solvent, you did not "set" or Cure the coating at all.
Simply wash off first coat with solvent, dry, and recoat.
If coatings is not bonded or set, it can be simply washed off with solvent.
You dont need to re-melt.
Repeat coating , drying and bake, this time at 390F for 10 minutes.
Please don't dispare!!, I coated literally hundereds at the beginning and they ALL failed, fouled the barrel, all kinds of hell. Little by little I modified my methology and within a few days I hit on a system that worked, and has worked ever since.
It can be frustrating, most of us have BTDT... IT does work, it just takes a little time to train yourself.
Some people like Ausglock can meter out coating by eye and hit the target every time, but he has done this a LOT, and he's a freak as well.. I measure exact when I coat, using syringes, I can't do what Trev does, but my way works for me and I shoot 200-300 every weekend. One day I will make a short video on how I do it, which probably is good for new guys, then you can drift over to the way Trev does it once comfortable with what your doing. The wife now has a brand new S&W 1911 from the performance section, so now I HAVE to be sure everything works or she will be hunting me!!
Don't worry about life, no-one gets out alive.
Metering by eye....... Yep. that is it.
Coated and baked 2500 tonight and not a measuring cup in sight. one second dribble and all is good.
Oven at 200deg C. Timer dial set at 10, 11 or 11.5 or 10.5 or 9.5 (somewhere around 10 minutes anyway) and all good.
Easy as.
Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor.
Australia
Based on the feedback from my earlier posts went ahead and bought a thermometer and found out that at the temp setting I was using was actually about 100F over temp. I tried setting it lower but the temp would not stabilize . (temp swings of over +-140F). So until my new toaster oven comes in, my coating is on hold. Decided to go with the Oster Convection oven. Model TSTTVMNDG.
Maybe you could still bake them a bit longer?
Love Life even shot some that didn't fully pass the tests and they worked for him,
MAYBE he'll chime in about this.
Don't give up yet?
Take a few from the batches that show color when tested. Re cook these at higher temps for 10 minutes or 11 minutes. Experiment until you find what it takes for your set up to give a pass on the wipe test.
Test small batches, maybe 10 bullets or so. You already have them coated, just re cook and experiment.
I bake at a full 400 F, which is actually 425 on the oven dial, for 10 to 12 minutes depending on bullet weight. Heavier bullet bake longer. I use an oven thermometer to guage temp, the dial was way off.
You will learn far more at the casting, loading, and shooting bench than you ever will at a computer bench.
I use spoons when I mix, just a squirt when applying to bullets. Mark I eyeball works well for me. I add bullets til it looks right, give em a squirt, and tumble.
it isn't rocket science but does require an ability to see what is happening and adjust on the fly.
The commercial guys measure more precisely, I totally get that. They need a very repeatable product. I don't sell mine so I make em good enough for me!
You will learn far more at the casting, loading, and shooting bench than you ever will at a computer bench.
atygrit, it takes a bit for the oven to get up to temperature so try what I do sometimes. Cook the ones that wipe off and after 10 minutes (or whatever) pull one off the tray and water cool it and try the wipe test. If it passes they are cooked enough, if not try another in a few more minutes to see if this is long enough.
I know when I was cooking in the winter and temps were down around 50 to 60 degrees I had to run the time for the larger boolits up to 20 minutes. Even a wind on the oven can change how long the boolits have to cook.
This is when I went to the Walmart DVOM with thermocouple to track the temperatures. Found I had to close off the vents in one oven with a piece of steel so it would get hot enough.
If you wash them and there is baked on coating left it should not hurt anything. Remember we do apply multiple coats to the same boolits.
If we can work it out I am willing to guide you by phone thru the process. PM me if this is something you want to do.
+1 On the water cool, that is what I did till I got a few batches done and was confident. They say great minds think alike.
Thank you very much for the offer.
What I'm doing is what i should have done a long time ago, which is bake for 10 minutes, then 11, 12, etc. all the while doing the wipe tests. Last night I started over and was able to see a difference between 10 and 11 minutes bake time. They both failed, but I saw an improvement.
Here is my setup showing 400 degrees and 5 pictures of the wipe test from 10 minutes to 14 minutes. I did this over two nights, so the 10 and 11 minute tests dried for 6 hours and the 12, 13, and 14 minute tests were able to dry 24 hours. I don't see a lot of difference between the 5 wipe tests. I will say the bullets still had plenty of color left on them, it isn't like I was able to wipe off all of the coating to bare lead.
Also, the coating is not very slick feeling, more like a matte or flat paint texture. This is the powdered black 1035, is it suppose to be like that?
Can someone post good pictures of what the black 1035 is supposed to look like.
Thanks,
I do the 1035 black and cook at 375. But its a convection oven.
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |