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Thread: Out of patience , giving up on pan-lube going to try tumble ,but

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    turmech's Avatar
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    For the most part I use the same caliber case as what bullets I am cutting out with some exceptions. I use a 357 case for 358, 359 and 360. Like in the pic I cut bullets for a 358 Winchester (sized at .360) with a cutter made from a 357 case. For all my 30 caliber I use a 7.62X39 case. For all the 44s I use a 44 mag case and so on. Cutting a 44 with a 45 would not make a clean enough cut for me although I admit I have not tried it.


    I just use a fire formed case in the somewhat correct caliber. Drill the primer pocket out and insert and framing nail with the head towards the bullet. But that is just me there are lots of ways to accomplish cutting the bullets out.

  2. #22
    Boolit Mold
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    so your sayin that a fired casing well expand just enough to slide over a bullet of equil caliber , I never new that and I never tried...thanks Jerr

  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master
    bangerjim's Avatar
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    I went from pan lubing (almost 80% rejects) to TL using 45/45/10 for a while when that mix hit it's popularity a year or so ago.

    Then I got into PC and dumped (literal!) all my ALOX! PC gives perfect coats on standard and microgroove AND the new no-lube-groove boolits.

    No grease......no smoke......no leading! Very easy to do.

    Read the threads in alternate coatings on here and decide for yourself. Tons of people are switching to PC with excellent results. I never looked back.

    bangerjim

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
    turmech's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by big jerr View Post
    so your sayin that a fired casing well expand just enough to slide over a bullet of equil caliber , I never new that and I never tried...thanks Jerr
    So far that has worked for me.

  5. #25
    Boolit Bub
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    Aug 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by big jerr View Post
    Ok tried my hand at pan lube , after dare,bees wax mix ,tac1 , I'm giving up on pan lube do to fact I can't get a good fill of lube grove after removing bullets . I try pushing , cutting , using empty shells to cut-em and a still have to do some filling here and there to get a complete fill . I'm using lee molds and the lube groove looks abit narrow and shallow compared to some others I v seen , not blaming the molds.
    So on some 38 cal for my sass loads I tried the Alox that comes with my sizer, one coat before sizing and one coat after , now this is easy peazy compared to
    pan lube BUT my first lot seams sticky after a couple days dry time , I loaded up fifty rounds and stopped as the tackyness concerned me . I don't think I applied to much for a bowl of 200 38s but beginning to wonder OR is this norm fox ALOX .?
    Next going to try the 45/45/10 Alox mix I've been reading about , as these are low pressure sass rounds , tumble lube sounds more in-line to my simple needs ...jerr

    Don't feel bad. I finally got ticked enough to buy the RCBS Lube-A-Matic. Keeping my gear to pan lube though. Made so much Ben's Red that I can lube all of my 600 pounds of wheel weight cupcakes.

  6. #26
    Boolit Mold
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    Dec 2010
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    Springfield, Missouri
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    I place my bullets in the plastic bullet holder that the loaded rounds came in. I put them in nose first then place my pie pan over the top and invert them and the bullets are all in alignment. Pour in the melted lube and allow to set up. Then place them in the freezer until hard. Pop the lube with bullets out of the pan and place them over the bullet holder and use a wooden dowel and push them through into the holder. I can then store them or size them - whatever. It works for me rather well.
    I know this will sound crazy but I buy cans of chain lube for use on my hay bailer. I used the same method as above except I sprayed the bullets and let them set overnight. They were .38 wadcutters. I loaded and shot them and they performed just as well as the alox or pan lubed bullets. No leading and just as accurate. Clean up of the revolver was the same. I did discover something unique about using chain lube. I have a S&W Model 52 semi-auto designed for .38 wadcutters. They can become a real pain at times with certain brands of brass or makes of midrange ammo. Using chain lube on the bullets eliminated jams and stovepipes. It may be something to do with chamber residue. I also discovered that a soft alloy works better than a harder alloy in low velocity handguns as far as accuracy is concerned.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check