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Thread: Breaking in a new barrel

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Breaking in a new barrel

    FINALLY! after 2 years, one of my distributors got in a 4" Ruger Redhawk. Since im a dealer, I wasnt going to pay retail somewhere else. Im too cheap for that.

    Its replacing my 4" S&W 629. Out of all my guns I cast for, I never could get it not to lead. I took some lapping compound to it, and it had some high spots where the threads were. I eventually gave up casting for it. Actually, Ive been so busy with the business, I havent cast any bullets in almost 2 years.

    So the 629 is out and this is in

    Click image for larger version. 

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    So what would be the best way to break in the barrel. I have some nosler jacked bullets. Should I run a hundred through the barrel first before I start running lead through it?

  2. #2
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    wouldn't hurt, but then you'd have to clean the copper out.
    I take a new gun down and shoot it.
    then wipe it down with a little oil.
    then take it down and shoot it again.
    this is the time I look to see if I have accuracy issues or any leading or whatever.
    if I have something the second go-round I then look for the problem.
    unless I got ribbons of lead hanging out the barrel in 10 shots or something.

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I think I'd start with a good cleaning. Yes, even a new gun. Slug the bore, measure the throats, get a feel for the gun. It was likely test-fired with j-words so it needs cleaning. I've never heard of a break-in process for revolvers, I've bought several new and haven't done anything special to help them wear in. I disagree with the sometimes revered break-in process for rifles but don't feel it applies to your new revolver anyway. I'd be more concerned with cylinder throats, timing, cylinder-to-forcing cone gap, grip configuration, bore condition and trigger pull than a break-in process. After a few thousand rounds you'll suddenly realize it has broken in to become a very nice revolver and is no longer the new kid in the safe.
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  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by runfiverun View Post
    wouldn't hurt, but then you'd have to clean the copper out.
    I take a new gun down and shoot it.
    then wipe it down with a little oil.
    then take it down and shoot it again.
    this is the time I look to see if I have accuracy issues or any leading or whatever.
    if I have something the second go-round I then look for the problem.
    unless I got ribbons of lead hanging out the barrel in 10 shots or something.
    I think all I have to clean the bore is butches bore shine. You think run a cylinder, bore shine then oil the barrel, then repeat the process?

    Since all I have available is the jacketed bullets, I will have to use those. I have a lyman keith mold. But I really over sized that sucker trying to get it to quit leading the barrel in the 629. It was so over sized that all the edges were no longer sharp. I think i will have to start over with all my 44 casting equipment. I think I even oversized my sizing dies. I had some custom made that are .434 and .435 Do you think anyone have use for those?

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    I use JB or USP bore paste on my new or new to me revolvers. I clean the inside of the chambers and the forcing cone as well as the length of the bore with these.

    I also use CorrosionX. This stuff works like seasoning a cast iron frying pan. Mighty good stuff!

    As the leading is reduced in subsequent cleanings, I eliminate the bore paste but continue the CorrosionX.

    You can't overuse CorrosionX ........ but some curse the bore pastes ...... but I don't!

    Three 44s

  6. #6
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    I don't think you could chamber a 434 boolit in the ruger.
    but a lee fcd would cure that issue,,,, just kidding don't do that..
    .430 [maybe 431 and I doubt it] will be more in line for your revolver.

    I'm not a spaz about "cleaning" a gun.
    I keep them cleanish, in working order, oiled slightly, and can rely on them to work every time.
    I don't get carried away scrubbing and tearing them down and such.

    one area I would look at for sure [after test firing] is chamber length and the transition from the chamber into the throat of the cylinder.

  7. #7
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    From what I hear "not a spaz" doesn't quite do it justice.......

    I like to give a new revolver a quick cleaning then go shoot. No break in period or special voodoo, I want to shoot the damn thing, not play with it.
    You will learn far more at the casting, loading, and shooting bench than you ever will at a computer bench.

  8. #8
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    I ain't a big barrel break in guy on rifles with copper either.
    I shoot it a few times and I just don't get the barrel hot.
    i'll clean the barrel when it needs it, or every 250 rounds whichever comes first, if I remember.

    I have some cast shooter rifles I bought new and just started flinging lead down the barrel.
    I haven't cleaned some of those barrels in over 15 years.
    never seen the need.
    what's in there? a protective coating of lube,,,, maybe some antimony.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check