Attachment 108168I received this mold today. Cast for 20 min then the mold started not closing completely.
Using Lee 6 banger handles, the little bump on the end of the alignment pin is messing up the female alignment bushing.
What to do?
Attachment 108168I received this mold today. Cast for 20 min then the mold started not closing completely.
Using Lee 6 banger handles, the little bump on the end of the alignment pin is messing up the female alignment bushing.
What to do?
I would get ahold of Mihec on the issue. None of my molds have that bump on the alignment pin, but it looks like it is doing enough damage to the mold that it would cause a problem. You can fix anything with a dremel, but it takes patience, and fortitude. Check with Mehec and explain the circumstance. He may remedy it for you.
I agree the bump should not be there but why is it hitting way off center like that. There is even a divot off in the brass !
There seems to be some kind of alignment problem with the handles as well. As the handles are gently closing the two blocks the male and female alignment
should be right on center ! That bump should not be hitting anything when the halves close properly ! This is especially true with MP molds.
Jerry
Last edited by GLL; 06-18-2014 at 09:57 PM.
S&W .38/44 Outdoorsman Accumulator
That bump should be a non issue and I don't understand how it would do that kind of damage without being really ruff on closing and not being lined up at all when slapping the halves together. I am pretty sure he doesn't use that style pin any longer and must have been an "old stock" mold?
I would guess your handle bolt is to loose and your slamming it together purty hard. The chewed up steel is a good indicator of an alignment issue with your handles and excessive force.
If you think your a hammer everything looks like a nail.
I have 9 Mi Hec molds. I use them all with Lee 6 Cav handles and none of them have given me any problems.
I have contacted Miha a couple times on problems that definitely were not his fault and he took care of or helped me immediately.
Drop him an email and maybe some pictures and I have no doubt he will do whatever he can as fast as possible.
Stone the teet off. Use a needle file to smooth out the damaged edge or use a reamer or endmill the proper size to run into the hole to clean it up. If they are too hard for carbon steel files or HSS tooling it is time to jump up to diamond files and carbide tooling.
That doesn't look like Mihecs fault IMO.
That is clearly a case of rough handling. You can damage a mould in a blink of an eye or you can treat them like a Swiss watch and they will last several liftetimes.
Just be more gentle in your operation. These are precision items and require gentle handling.
I have used needle files (carefully) to remedy that kind of mould damage.
FWIW
Dale53
What I suspect has happened (and I notice it with all me Lee handles.(other handles do it too) Is the one mold block will cock at a different angle than the other. If you force them closed with the one block angled like that it will miss the alignment pin and cause some damage. You tilt the handle so the mold halves are parallel to each other and then you close.
I think the issue is with the mold handles too.
you can take your champhering tool and turn the face of the female insert to a bevel with it.
that should get the mold up and going again.
The mold does have a lot more movement on the handles than needed. I didn't slam the mold closed.
First thing I had to do after the mold warmed to casting temp the side with the sprew plate was deburr the cavities. I do not like to have to tap the mold handles more than a couple of light taps and it took a lot more than taps with a lead hammer to get the boolits to fall out. All was good then till it started not closing completely.
I contacted MP-MOLDS.
Looking at your photo it is obvious that there is poor mold alignment when closing..
When I have that problem I set the mold down on a level surface to maintain alignment of the two halves while closing the mold..
Wow. That's pretty chewed up. I'd also look at the handles.
I'd dress those rough areas ever so slightly and modify my mold closing technique.
Also are you having to pound the mould to drop the boolits?
With the mould open on loose handles and having to whack it to get the boolits to drop can cause the pin and hole nearest the handle hinge pin to bash together causing damage like you photographs show.
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Pukka Bundhooks
The LEE handles are good but not without issues sometimes. I've had to twist/tweak them to get good mould alignment . Once I do I don't take them off.
Three simple words to stop this type of problem.
Red River Rick.
his handles don't allow the mould to flop around much.
You will learn far more at the casting, loading, and shooting bench than you ever will at a computer bench.
Fastfire..Have you gotten any info back from MP yet...? Or did they just say sent it back?
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |