Does an electric smelting pot exist?

[Idz]

The old mechanical oven controllers used an expansion pellet and behaved somewhat like a proportional controller. Most simple systems can use an electronic control to approximate true proportional control by switching the valve (or electric element) on and off at different rates as the set temperature is approached. The home furnace mechanical thermostat uses an 'anticipator' that warms up the thermostat slightly so it shuts off the furnace before the room is up to temperature because there is a lag between furnace heat and room temperature. There is a whole field of system control engineering that measures system response and then programs an electronic controller to operate a system within certain parameters. A little internet searching and I'm sure you can find somebody has designed a homebuilt controller to do just about anything.

[trapper9260]

I use a lyman big pot to do my smelting now since LP is high and it works out also for me .Years ago I use to have a fire going with wood and when I got the hot coals then I would put my pot in it and then smelt it after.Then I went to LP and now electric .

[40-82 hiker]

I know this goes against the grain of this thread, but I still just 100% inspect every single piece of COWW that goes into my smelting pot. Can't be anymore 100% sure than that. Even though I always smelt between 650 and 675 degrees, I still take solace that if I accidentally let the temp get out of hand I would have nothing to worry about.

As for the PID controlled large smelter, I am glad they work, and are a good way to smelt the lead. I am very respectful of those pursuing the design of those devices. I am not trying to take anything away from them. Just not for me... Wouldn't be comfortable with the zinc COWWs in there to begin with. My problem, not their's...

[shadowcaster]

The advantage of the electrical unit is that we can control the temperature and not melt the pesky zinc WW's.

You can control the temp of any pot/melt with an attentive eye and a thermometer.

Shad

[shadowcaster]

Lead is 621 and zinc is 787 (degrees for you metric folks) so there is quite a bit of difference.

166 degrees F is not a very big window, and if not paying attention, going over happens quickly.

Shad

[40-82 hiker]

166 degrees F is not a very big window, and if not paying attention, going over happens quickly.

Shad

I agree with Shad. Things can happen in a hurry... Also, I have never used, nor been fond of the thought of using the pot temp. as a form of sorting COWWs. It seems some do it though, and are happy with the result.

Given the choice between ingots produced with everything thrown in the smelting pot, or a carefully monitored system in which NOTHING but lead COWWs are smelted in a pot not exceeding 675, I will pick the latter every time (only way I will smelt lead: 100% inspection)

No zinc in the pot, no zinc in the ingots. Impossible... Sort carefully and watch the temp. A PID will help the smelting process of course, but I'm just not fond of zinc being in the pot at the start of the process, especially if one has a zero tolerance for zinc. JMHO. How hot does the bottom of the pot get before it has actually created a pool large enough to be regulated? Could some zinc melt during this time? I don't know the answers, but maybe all of this research will answer some questions. Until then...

[Old Caster]

Zinc floats and is simple to keep out of the mix when smelting with propane but I am of the thought that wheel weight smelting is just about a thing of the past. Maybe another year or so.

[trapper9260]

Zinc floats and is simple to keep out of the mix when smelting with propane but I am of the thought that wheel weight smelting is just about a thing of the past. Maybe another year or so.

You are right and what I do is keep the heat down that the lead will melt and the zinc dose floats and easy to take off the top.But what I do is after I clean it I put in igots and start over with the next batch of WW that way will keep the Zinc float.

[KohlerK91]

Trent model mb190 (190lb capacity)does the trick for me

@ 4.5kw i can smelt all day for about 5 dollars

Craigslist can provide alot a good stuff you just have to look

[KohlerK91]

I agree with Shad. Things can happen in a hurry... Also, I have never used, nor been fond of the thought of using the pot temp. as a form of sorting COWWs. It seems some do it though, and are happy with the result.

Given the choice between ingots produced with everything thrown in the smelting pot, or a carefully monitored system in which NOTHING but lead COWWs are smelted in a pot not exceeding 675, I will pick the latter every time (only way I will smelt lead: 100% inspection)

No zinc in the pot, no zinc in the ingots. Impossible... Sort carefully and watch the temp. A PID will help the smelting process of course, but I'm just not fond of zinc being in the pot at the start of the process, especially if one has a zero tolerance for zinc. JMHO. How hot does the bottom of the pot get before it has actually created a pool large enough to be regulated? Could some zinc melt during this time? I don't know the answers, but maybe all of this research will answer some questions. Until then...

The electric pot i use has a thermal couple on the bottom of the pot, i would say the temp would closely resemble that on the controller. I have no worries at all about getting too hot anywhere in the melt.

[silverbear]

Do you have a link or contact info for the Trent mb190? What is it's price range? Thanks, Rich

[Airman Basic]

Do you have a link or contact info for the Trent mb190? What is it's price range? Thanks, Rich

http://datasheets.globalspec.com/ds/...E-8016C7D2A592

[KohlerK91]

Do you have a link or contact info for the Trent mb190? What is it's price range? Thanks, Rich

New...... They are probably $1000-$2000. But probably more. They are intended for industrial use.

[pcmacd]

I own a cast master, a 90# pot, and just love it after years with a Master Caster, which I sold before moving to AZ.

I try to cast 700 to a thousand bullets at a sitting, and the Master Caster 40# pot was not large enough to make that many bullets in a single melt.

When one takes sprues and rejects into consideration when casting 200 grain 45 caliber wadcutters, 40# is not enough to get that quantity done in a single melt.

I think Magma Engineering cast master deliveries are a wee bit out there at this time.

---> sitting in their office the other day, I heard Eric (owner) telling a customer that the central columns
for their Star sizer are 6 months overdue!

Like everbody else, they are having supply chain issues for their components.

[pcmacd]

I borrowed a home made furnace to reduce 1600# of range salvage to ingots, with around 10% loss (by weight) due to oxide and other crap.

(the scrap of bullets gone thru a trap have enormous surface area, and oxidize quickly.)

The unit was a steel pipe perhaps 12" in diameter at the base, ~18" tall, probably about a 14" pipe inverted end cap for the bowl, and a salvaged 40K BTU hot water heater burner for firing it where a cut had been burned at the bottom of the pedestal. Put a metal trash can lid atop while melting to conserve heat.

The guy who owned it had boilermaker friends, so this whole shebang cost him zero dollars.

It worked great, about 120# capacity.

[Plate plinker]

Band heater off of eBay and a chunk of steel pipe with the end welded shut. That’s what I did. Now if I had a good PID! My original pid sucks.

[gwpercle]

I have a Lee bottom pour pot for my casting, but I was wondering if anybody knows of a large melting pot that holds a lot of alloy that is heated electrically, to use strictly for smelting? I have a bunch of wws and would like to use my PID set at 650* to help weed out the zincers.Thanks!

I wouldn't do that ... too easy to check a wheel weight with side cutters .
I would bet money sooner or later you get a pot of contaminated alloy !

[Charlie Horse]

The prevailing opinion is that you can't smelt in a Lee bottom pour pot.
I beg to differ.
No. You can't do massive amounts.
But one session of smelting can keep me in lead for quite a while.
(Just how big a wall of ingots do you need to have sitting around?)
If it bothers you, buy a separate one for smelting.

If you leave some melted lead in the bottom instead of draining it dry it really speeds up the process. I use the Lee ingot mold and it is almost a continuous activity. Add lead to the pot, flux, fill the ingot mold, repeat. Lighting the smoke from the flux adds heat and speeds up the operation. Most of my lead comes from berm mining.
Just make sure its dry and be careful when adding more to the pot.
I'll usually do a pail-full in a couple hours. I made that pile of ingots in two, ~two hour sessions.