Please try lowering the crimp die to apply a little more crimp to the problem cartridges.
Please try lowering the crimp die to apply a little more crimp to the problem cartridges.
Well kudos to admitting you had issues and trying to solve it. I know it must have been pretty embarrassing.
You're a better man than most for admitting it and trying to do better next time. You have no idea how many times I've heard folks blame the gun, weather, range, humidity, mag, etc.
Thanks. Yes. It's embarrassing. But worse would be to fail to learn from your experiences. When I can I try to learn from the mistakes of others so I don't repeat their problems, but at the very least I try to not repeat my OWN mistakes!!
Interestingly, I wouldn't be embarrassed if I wasn't a regular shooter. I mean I've been reloading for 20 years and reload for maybe 30 cartridges. I have shot tons of Pb and Cu down range over the years. I take classes to improve my shooting skills, and I am known by my friends, family and colleagues as a "gun guy". This is why it's so embarrassing to experience problems that novice shooters don't.
A novice runs factory ammo through a stock factory gun, and he doesn't understand the intricacies of how everything works from internal ballistics, external ballistics, mechanics of the gun, spring tension in the magazine, ammo selection, etc, etc, etc. So when something doesn't go right, it's natural for them to blame the gun or ammo or both. But as a shooter, when something doesn't go right, I know it's me because I know the gun is running, and if it's not, that's my fault. I know if there's an ammo problem it's my fault because I made that ammo. A new guy gets frustrated when problems arise. Shooters get frustrated too, but there is an element of embarrassment to boot-- at least when your problem manifests itself in front of others.
Were you using the same brand brass as your original loads.? A variation in brass thickness can cause that. Forget to size a batch of bullets?
For a while I had a heck of a time with .40 S&W loads. Finally figured out that most of the brass needed to be de-glocked. Once I did that I didn't have any more problems.
Ironduke - Just because it hasn't been mentioned, your cases, after boolit seated and TAPER CRIMPED, should be close to .471, right at the case mouth. I get away with .472. Some guys won't. Something to check though. Might help. Mike
Politicians are a lot like diapers. They should be changed frequently, and for the same reason. Benjamin Franklin
What about your seating depth/ OAL?
The taper crimped case should measure .466 - .468 right at the case mouth.
You can always use your barrel as the cartridge gauge on the cheap, and your load will be custom tailored to your specific barrel instead of to industry spec. This can be really nice if you have a gun with a super tight match chamber, or an out of spec barrel for one reason or another
However that being said, I often find myself using both barrel and cartridge gauge methods. If I am only loading for MY gun then I use MY gun's barrel. When loading 45acp that will be shot in more than one gun, I use a cartridge gauge (cartridge go/no go gauge) instead.
When I worked for a commercial reloading company we often used Dillon cartridge gauges, and they worked just fine. At home I use a hybrid mix of mostly Dillon and Wilson cartridge gauges. I normally like Lyman products, but I got an out of spec Lyman gauge once, so I don't recommend them anymore
Also realize that some gauges out there are trim length gauges, and not a go or no go gauge. Be sure to get the correct type that you require
Here's a link for Dillon Precision handgun case gauges. (not trim gauges)
http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/con...gun_Case_Gages
These are function checking gauges, or cartridge gauges like you were asking for. Scroll down the list to find 45acp.
Hope it helps some.
- Bullwolf
It is either,
1) OAL is too long. Check that first.
2) you do not have enough taper crimp. At the mouth you should be around .469 to .471.
3) Both could be off. So,,,check both.
It takes very little cause the issue.
Good luck, I hope this helps.
Or, 4) The end of the chamber where the case is supposed to seat is contaminated with carbon and or lead. Use a sharp, like a cigar box nail or an awl to trace around that ledge to clear away carbon or lead.
Wilson makes cartridge gauges that meet the standards. Your barrel is the best plunk test gauge, if that ledge is clean.
prs
I crimp mine to .471 Dia. +/- .001 at the case mouth.
Truncated cone boolits need to be seated a little deeper than a round nose. Especially if they have a somewhat larger diameter nose.
A well regulated militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the People to keep and bear arms *shall not be infringed*.
"The greatest danger to American freedom is a government that ignores the Constitution."
- Thomas Jefferson
"While the people have property, arms in their hands, and only a spark of noble spirit, the most corrupt Congress must be mad to form any project of tyranny."
- Rev. Nicholas Collin, Fayetteville Gazette (N.C.), October 12, 1789
Taper crimped 45ACP case should measure .468 ?? Well, let's see - boolit .452. Case walls, nearly always .010. Sounds like somebody is "over" taper crimping. Mike
Politicians are a lot like diapers. They should be changed frequently, and for the same reason. Benjamin Franklin
Although "taper crimp" has been mentioned several times, I haven't seen your reply indicating that you are actually using a taper crimp die.
Many die sets for 45acp have been sold with only a standard roll crimp die, especially when marked as 45acp/45 Colt. The addition of a true taper crimp die is absolutely mandatory for loading 45acp, IMO, if you want to avoid feeding malfunctions.
Crimping in a separate operation from seating the bullet also helps, especially if using a roll crimp. The "bulge" you describe can be caused by either too much roll crimp or a seating/crimping combo. A taper crimp used after seating will go a long way towards allieviating your issues.
I taper crimp all 45 acp ammo to .468-.470 and have had years and years of problem free shooting nirvana.
It should only take about 15-20 minutes to pull 100 rounds with an inertial puller. Do this over the span of a few evenings and you are done. Think of it a penance for future loading endeavors.
Don't worry, my 1911 is very picky about SWC's. If I seat them just right, they feed 100%, if not, 3 point jam city. That's why I went with the TL452-230-TC's. Perfect feeding every time.
I, too, gave up on SWC's, they can be a bit troublesome in my 45's, and either shoot the TC or round nose, taper crimped to .471. All my brass is also kept sorted for headstamp and number of firings, I don't have any problems with feeding. A buddy of mine shoots the same boolits, taper crimped to .469, mixed brass, and has no problems. I've often wondered if he crimps a little smaller because it may make a slightly shorter case work all the time. I do know that even the RN and TC boolits gave him fits until he purchased a taper crimp die. I'll be interested to see what you finally determine to be the problem.
Another thing to consider: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=232061
I have a reamer on the way for mine and I'm interested to see if it will make a difference.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |