I purchased my bullets and they are already coated with regular lube, how can I remove the lube so that I can apply one of the coatings mentioned in this LONG thread?
I can't think of an easy/clean way to get all of the lube off. I would shoot them and cast up some fresh ones
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You might try boiling them in water, then letting it cool and scrape off the lube.
Let dry, then tumble them in corncob
I'm not set up to cast and I was trying to figure a way to prevent leading. Scraping is not an option, I'll shoot them and buy plated next time. That is if I can't find the "painted" bullets for less than plated.
But thanks for the help, maybe I'll get lucky yet…
Yes boil them in water, then let them sit in mineral spirits for a few hours...slosh them around periodically. Then...wash and slosh them with your hands in hot soapy water. Bit of a process but it works.
From another thread I posted on the same subject of lube removal:
I have removed the old lube from MANY boolits in the past....coated with various formulas.
1. Soak in LAC THINNER overnight
2. Swirl for several minutes. Drain off and keep for at least 2 more batches
3. Rinse in clean laq thinner (save for 1st step when original gets "gunked up") & drain.
4. Swirl in VERY hot water + Simple Green to cut all remining grease films
5. Drain
6. Rinse in HOT water
7. Allow to dry
You will then have perfectly clean grease-free boolits you can coat any way you like. I PC everything now. Better than any grease lubes.
bangerjim
Ok, I read all the info here on epoxy painting and would like an opinion, which VHT from the auto stores works best because they have the stuff with the 250 degree on the can and a very high temp type that has 1300 on the can and it also has ceramic in it, which one works best? thanks!
Stay away from the ceramic based coatings. They are very hard and I imagine could cause premature barrel wear
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Get the black epoxy stuff that is rated at 650.
The copper "hi-temp" paint (not epoxy) works good over ESPC matte black from HF. I would NOT recommend it as the only coating!
banger
If you read the cans, baking IS required for many kinds. The "baking" occurs on the engine part while the car is running normally. But you oven is required for all the ones I have seen. DO NOT do it in your food oven!!!!!!!!!!! EVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That applies to epoxy, enamel, HiTec, and powder coating.
In other words, if you do not eat it, do NOT use your food oven.
bangerjim
After reading the PC process and now this, epoxy, I'm heading to AutoZone and Harbor Freight for both process. I'm barely getting accustomed to LLA that's been modified a recipe I obtained from this forum and now this.......All I can say is keep up the good work and experimentation. Looks I'll be spending more time in the garage.
Ok after the initial resize, degreasing, application of spray epoxy, baking, final sizing, smash test, push through barrel test (slugging), and eventually shooting the bullet -- I am sold! I used a stack of old carpet panels from work that was going to be thrown away. I recovered several of the fired bullets and the epoxy is intact. Looks like I'm skipping the PC process and just stick with epoxy.
Epoxy is pricey. I'd seriously go PC
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Not really. For the spray can I picked up from Autozone runs $8 and some change including tax. But I take back what I said about "skipping PC". I went to Harbor Freight yesterday and picked up PC red. They ran out of black. Might as well keep my options open. I will try PC sometime this week.
I finally got around to shooting some more of the 45-70 I loaded last fall. The leading was terrible at 1500 fps.
Epoxy is pricey in comparison to PC. That same 8$ can be spent on even quality powder. I get over 1250 rounds out of a half pound of powdercoat
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I now only use the VHT brand paint in the Hi-temp burnt copper color. It is not an epoxy but gives an excellent old copper look. I spray ONE light coat on top of my ESPC matte black boolits and then bake for 30 min at 275F. You cannot scrape the stuff off but I sure would not use it as the PRIMARY protection coat. And it is very pricy! I doubt it would stick that well over the gloss tumbled colors.
For cosmetic purposes ONLY. Use at your own risk!!!!!!!!!
As far as the black VHT epoxy spray.......I have found it does not survive the impact test as well as PC. My test now is smash a boolit nose to base until it is about 1/2" thick then lay it on the side and smash from the sides to make a little lead cube. AND........correctly applied and baked powder will ALL still be there 100% after all that abuse!!!!!!!!
Now, that is the definitive smash test......my standard now........The Banger Impact Test!
Seeing how the epoxy does not survive the test, I have never shot any as I do not want to go mining for lead in my barrels anymore.
bangerjim
Here is what the VHT Hi-Temp burnt copper paint looks like over ESPC'd matte black boolits.
Cool copper color! As I said, I doubt it will stick nearly as well over gloss BBDT boolits. You cannot scrape this stuff off after it is heat cured properly!
Attachment 109439
bangerjim
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |