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Thread: Browning Auto 5 frame

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    ilcop22's Avatar
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    Browning Auto 5 frame

    Howdy,

    Id been working on a browning auto 5 frame, which required the removal of the mag tube. Being what it is, heat and torque later, and the tube was replaced. When I went to refit the internals, they locked up and wouldnt move freely past a certain point. I didnt use much pressure to clamp it down in a wood vice, but it seems the bottom portion of the frame got tighend. Any tips on how to rectify the frame? Replacing it is not an option. I need to make it work for light/occasional use.

    Thanks in advance.
    Who keeps not his arms in times of peace, Will have no arms in times of war.
    -Gaelic Proverb

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

    MtGun44's Avatar
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    Get a nut and bolt just the right length to fit inside, screw the nut on, then
    put in the frame. Unscrew so it make a sort of jackscrew. should be able
    to put a caliper on the outside and watch it move back.

    Bill
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master pietro's Avatar
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    .

    I may be preaching to the choir, but please keep in mind, if you do any such work in the future - make/fit a steel block for the inside of the action, and have it in place prior to any clamping/heating/torquing, etc, to lessen the chance of any mis-formation.



    .

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Thank you both. Sorry for the late reply. Im not quite sure I understand your advice, Mtgun44. Is the point of that to draw the bolt head along the frame, using the nut as a sort of anchor?
    Who keeps not his arms in times of peace, Will have no arms in times of war.
    -Gaelic Proverb

  5. #5
    In Remembrance


    DLCTEX's Avatar
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    Use the bolt inside the frame as a spreader. A snug fitting bolt should get you almost 3/8 inch of spread. This will require two wrenches. Put the bolt inside the frame with the nut screwed onto the bolt, then unscrew it.

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Yes, exactly. With the nut screwed all the way on, the assembly is the length of the bolt. if this is
    made to be just a hair less than the width inside the frame it will fit inside, across the frame. As
    you unscrew the nut, it will start overhanging the bolt, will give about 2/3 of the nut thickness
    as the max added length with full pushing force. This should work in pushing from the inside
    to get the exterior dimension back to what it should be. It is a tiny jackscrew with the travel
    only equal to about 2/3 of the nut thickness. Actually, you could use a coupling nut if you needed
    a bunch of travel, but I suspect we are talking about only needing to move things in the .010-.020
    inch range - just guessing.

    You will need a wrench in there to hold the head and another to turn the nut.

    Bill
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    ilcop22's Avatar
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    Excellent, thank you again! I'll repost with results when I get it done.
    Who keeps not his arms in times of peace, Will have no arms in times of war.
    -Gaelic Proverb

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check