I ordered a 12oz can here for 19.95 with shipping, http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Catego...x/385/1/RIG-12
I ordered a 12oz can here for 19.95 with shipping, http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Catego...x/385/1/RIG-12
BWB knows.
I bought my first and only 4 ounce jar of RIG in 1972. I was having rust problems with all my steel firearms. Coast of South Carolina. I just looked at that jar and it is half full/empty. I will try something else when RIG doesn't deliver.
I guess I'll past it on to my son.
762
Last edited by 762 shooter; 04-18-2014 at 06:38 PM.
Hope for the best, plan for the worst.
My amendment can beat up your amendment.
HE-HE
When my son moved out 3 years ago I gave him the 1/3 jar full.
He likes OLD things including bottles.
He will also inherit my new bottle and the 30+ year old sheepskin pad used for applying the RIG.
WE WON. WE BEAT THE MACHINE. WE HAVE CCW NOW.
RUST PREVENTIVE No. 2™
Available from Brownells
VPI/VCI, same thing. This is the stuff that the military has used to replace cosmoline. It is used for long-term storage of ferrous metals including firearms and repair parts (although there are versions made for nonferrous metals, as well as a combination of ferrous and nonferrous). The huge advantage over cosmoline is that you don't have to remove the stuff before placing the item into service. Just unwrap it and use it.
One disadvantage to RIG is that if there is corrosion (read: rust) already started on the piece of steel, you have to STOP it before applying RIG or the rust will continue underneath the grease. AMHIK.
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Another vote for RIG. It's what my dad taught me to use when I was a kid. He still has the can he bought in the early 70's. Uses it in his business too. I bought a small (1 oz.) can in the early 90's and had used about a fourth of it before I gave it away after buying myself a big can. I got my hands on a large chunk of sheepskin around the time I bought the small can and cut my own "RIG rags" out of it including cutting the length of the wool down to an appropriate length. I've given away about a dozen of those over the years too. Wouldn't use anything else to protect our firearms. Buy a can and it will last a lifetime.
Browncoat
Another vote for RIG. I use it in place of oil for long term storage. I've also used airtight metal containers (ammo cans, new paint cans, etc.) with a piece of oiled cardboard in the bottom of the can. Use something a little more volatile on the cardboard such as Kroil, Ballistol or Clenzoil and RIG on the actual item you're protecting.
While we're talking oil, Clenzoil is one of those great products that seems to suffer from a lack of nationwide distribution. If you can find it and have never used it; give it a try. Clenzoil totally replaced Breakfree on my bench.
Ballistol is useful if you need to quickly protect wood/leather/metal combinations for short term storage, like say an old rifle with a leather sling. Ballistol is safer for wood & leather. Clenzoil is a good cleaner, lubricant, protector (like Breakfree, but better) and RIG is THE choice for long term storage.
Just my $.02
I use ballistol for short term on the firearms I handle frequently and have not had a problem. For over winter storage I clean thoroughly and coat with rem oil both rubbed with a rag outside and with a patch down the bore. I don't store firearms longer than that without using them.
I am trying coating the bore on one with kroil to see how it does. So far so good
I Am Descended From Men Who Would Not Be Ruled
Fiat Justitia, Ruat Caelum
For other than BP I have long since dumped Ballistol for EEZOX http://eezox.com/gun-care.html
Eezox is a very impressive product.
http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html
Frog Lube is appears to work well also. http://froglube.com/
More testing required for Frog Lube before it replaces EEZOX for me but I am really liking it so far.
KANO Laboratories
www.kanolabs.com/
has some good stuf for that
We have enough gun control. What we need is idiot control.
I think everyone has their own "pet" gun oil/grease. Anything that forms a barrier on ferrous metals to keep water & oxygen away from the surface will prevent rust. Anything that forms a film that prevents metal on metal contact will reduce wear. The key is for how long. Some products have a volatile carrier that quickly evaporates and leaves the surface unprotected. Some products will harden and oxidize with age. Both processes reduce the long term effectiveness of the oil or grease.
I'm certain that there are other products, including simple wheel bearing grease, that will prevent rust. I've just learned to trust RIG.
We could start an entire new thread (or several) talking about this lubricate, that cleaner, this preservative, etc.
For gun relied upon for defense, I want a light oil that will work even when cold. I like Clenzoil but there are plenty that work just as well. Wear is not an issue when it only has to work with absolute reliability for a few rounds.
For range use and high volume practice, particularly in hot weather; I may opt for something that protects sliding surfaces better, like lubriplate or one of the specialty gun oils.
For long term storage, especially in humid conditions, I prefer something well proven. For me, RIG is the trusted long term storage solution. I'm not claiming it's the only one or even the best; it's just the one I use.
http://www.kanolabs.com/
Great penetrating oil and can be used as a bore cleaner. Seems to penetrate under leading but it’s not in the same league as EEZOX for rust prevention.
Last edited by M-Tecs; 04-21-2014 at 12:23 AM.
I do not know about rust prevention but after totally working over a 1981 V W rabbit and never stripping a bolt,nut or screw head I will never be without KROIL.
WE WON. WE BEAT THE MACHINE. WE HAVE CCW NOW.
Kroil is great stuff, and it smells good! (well at least I think it smells good)
It works well as a bore cleaner and is a great penetrating oil.
I have used rig grease with great results over many years. Kroil works short term and as a penatrant,cleaner. Ive never tried it long term. We also had a product at work for parts to be stored long term in the crib called vanishing oil, you applied it with a rag or brush let parts set for an hour or so and were dry to touch yet parts could set for a long time with put rusting corrosion appearing. One problem with the thinner oils is they slowly run and leave parts under protected with time. Rig grease stays put even in a thin coat and dosnt migrate very fast.
Vapor barriers and vapor collectors eventually prevent or absorb all of the moisture that they're capable of and have to be replaced or rejuvenated.
RIG and cosmoline do not ever "give up the ghost" and are good until you remove the stuff.
Gun control is not about guns.
Desiccants absorb moisture. You can make it yourself from crystal cat litter. At least that is what one web site I found said. I use it in my safes. Just make packets from coffee filters and staple closed.
Supposedly, you can rejuvenate it by putting it in the oven at about 150-175 degrees. I bought a bucket of the stuff at a pet store that was on sale. Only one they had left. They had changed from a bucket(16#) to a bag(12#) and the 12# bag cost more. Since it was so cheap, I don't bother to cook it back to usefulness. Plus, when it's gone, I've got a bucket to store brass.
I use it as "suspenders" in addition to the heat rod "belt" in the safe and applied rust preventives on the guns.
John
W.TN
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |