I have heard tell that it's not recommended to use cast bullets in the Marlin 336 because of the micro grooving of the barrels. Does anyone out there have any experience with these? I have a 336 and a few casts i'd like to try but am hesitant.
I have heard tell that it's not recommended to use cast bullets in the Marlin 336 because of the micro grooving of the barrels. Does anyone out there have any experience with these? I have a 336 and a few casts i'd like to try but am hesitant.
Welcome to the site. I would slug the bore and mic the slug and also mic your casts and try to get the casts at least .001" over the rifled groove and have at it. My 336's in 30/30 and .35 do very well as long as my casts are consistent in weight. In other words if I do my part at casting.
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You have no problems with lead fouling?
I have one in 30-30 and it's great! Very accurate with .311 180gr boolits cast with coww and water dropped.
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+1 what FishnBob said. I use 45-45-10 to lube. Just put a few together and see what happens, you may be surprised. Slugging your barrel will give you a good start.
HV
Life's biggest tragedy is we get old too soon, and wise too late.
I find .311 sized boolits do fine in my 336 at 1700 fps and less. Others are able to achieve higher velocities but that has not been my experience. Mine likes IMR4227 and IMR4198 with 160 and 180 gr boolits. Slug, Size and Slow.
And the myth of MG barrels and lead continue.
MG barrels tend to like larger boolits. Slug and size accordingly. All my marlins shot fine with lead and MG barrels. Just liked fatter boolits.
That is an old wives tale and there is absolutely no truth in it.
The Marlin 336 is one of the best cast bullet rifles on the planet.
Yes. I have done it. As have MANY other members here.
First reload: .22 Hornet. 1956.
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I had the same fears, but apparently they're rooted in the days when everyone sized their .30 cast bullets at .309, without slugging thier bores. Apparently .309 works fine if you have a typical .308 bore, but my marlin's bore is .3095 to .310ish, which is pretty typical.
Size them to .311 (if your bore is .310) and enjoy. I haven't shot mine any heavier than 21.0 grains of 4227 in a 30-30, but I was very pleasantly surprised at how well they shot. Roughly 1" at 35 yards, which is as good as I can do with open sights under any circumstances, and as good as my 30-30 does with jacketed factory ammo.
It'll never work, those lead boolits will lead your bore up terribly. Don't even bother......got any pics? I live close enough I might could drive up there and take that worthless thing off your hands.
Welcome to the forum! You have a great rifle and it will do fine with the right boolit. My 30-30 336 likes a .311 boolit and my 35 Rem 336 likes a .359 boolit.
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My Marlin Microgroove 45/70 does just fine with cast. The key is understanding that you may need to cast and size a larger boolit than the nominal bore diameter.
I give loading advice based on my actual results in factory rifles with standard chambers, twist rates and basic accurizing.
My goals for using cast boolits are lots of good, cheap, and reasonably accurate shooting, while avoiding overly tedious loading processes.
The BHN Deformation Formula, and why I don't use it.
How to find and fix sizing die eccentricity problems.
Do you trust your casting thermometer?
A few musings.
Oh yeah one more thing- most of what you've heard elsewhere about loading and shooting cast boolits is wrong.
I give loading advice based on my actual results in factory rifles with standard chambers, twist rates and basic accurizing.
My goals for using cast boolits are lots of good, cheap, and reasonably accurate shooting, while avoiding overly tedious loading processes.
The BHN Deformation Formula, and why I don't use it.
How to find and fix sizing die eccentricity problems.
Do you trust your casting thermometer?
A few musings.
Right now I am shooting Hornady 150 grain round nose. I want to eventually get started in casting and use the bullets in m 40 and 30-30. Is there a particular hardness I should try and achieve?
I shoot cast in my 30-30 and no problem and as for the BHN match it to your load and go from there. Do you have a tester ? I use a Lee one and it have a chart for what BHN will work for what load .
Life Member of NRA,NTA,DAV ,ITA. Also member of FTA,CBA
It's hard to expand on all of the above good advice, so I will not.
It took me a long time to aquire the above information through trial & error
and that was before the internet, you are fortunate in that you only have to ask.
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This site is the bomb,... I was having fits with my micro 30-30... until I learned the above from this site... and Im cloverleafing
at 50 yrds.... with .311.... feels very accomplished to solve this kind of problem.... will this site point me toward the winning lotto ticket...>?????
30 caliber boolits usually drop from the mold at .311. Size the boolit to .311. Lube and use. It is that simple. If it gives you accuracy and no leading you do not need to slug the barrel. Leading is usually the result of a too small boolit. At .311 you should not have a problem.
April's edition of "hand loader " had a excellent article on this subject. It went into detail on the alloy, sizing ect On a .35 Remington they were using..
I have Marlins in 30-30, 35 Rem., and 45-70, all micro-groove. I cast with 50% WW + 50% lead and air cool. Let age 4 weeks and lube with FWFL. I shoot the boolits "as cast" but lubed in an over-sized die. I have never had leading in my barrels. These are my deer hunting guns with hunting loads.
Larry
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |