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Thread: Let's talk about 45 acp brass

  1. #21
    Boolit Master KYCaster's Avatar
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    I'll start sorting 45ACP brass when I run out of things to do.

    My culling process starts when I load the case feeder. Grab a hand full of brass and give it a shake; you can hear a cracked case ring......find it and discard it.

    If it doesn't fit in the shell plate or is mangled to the point it won't go in the sizing die, discard it.

    If it doesn't accept a primer, discard it. Most of my culls are found at this point. I usually keep a few sized and primed cases on hand so I can just remove the offending case and replace it with a primed case and continue to load. I often find S&B, AMERC, FC, some older military and, of course, those pesky small primer cases that go in the scrap bucket.

    I don't try to reclaim any of the rejects; I can pick up brass at the range much faster than I can rehabilitate offenders.

    This system has been working for me for many years and many thousands of rounds. I don't load 45ACP to the ragged edge of the pressure limit, so brass thickness and case capacity are not a concern. Almost all the failures I've had have been high primers (not seating to the bottom of the primer pocket) and if I'm diligent about my post-loading QC, I'll catch them before they go in the magazine.

    Jerry
    Buzzard's luck!! Can't kill nothin', nothin'll die!!

  2. #22
    Boolit Mold
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    I didn't know there was still a lot of military surplus .45 ACP out there. Is it all lake city headstamps like more current military brass offerings (I know WCC and LC stamps are common for surplus brass lots of 9mm/.50BMG)?

    I have several thousand pieces of mixed .45 ACP brass I bought last year while playing what I call 'Gunbroker penny slots.' I sorted most of it into gallon bags, I figure I'll load and shoot the miscellaneous stuff and whatever couple brands I have the most of will be saved for later in case I want to really strive for accuracy.

    Anything that's complete junk I'll save for two steps further into this hobby, I've got shooting kinda figured out, reloading now, then casting, and eventually swaging the used brass into all new boolits!

  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy
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    While we are on the subject, my gunsmith was giving me a hard time for loading PMC brass in .45ACP, he was telling

    me that it was prone to case failure. I had never heard that before. Is there any truth to that or is it just

    another urban legend?

  4. #24
    Boolit Master


    gmsharps's Avatar
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    I think I have loaded just about every 45 acp case there is at one time or the other and have not found any real issues with any of them. I just can't seem to wear them out. Of course I am not pushing the envelope either. If you wanted to do a test take a marker and mark the end of the case so you can tell them apart and shoot them until you have failures and see how long that takes. I've done that with a box of nickel plated 38spl cases. I had a split after the first reload on a couple but I still had a few going after the nickel plating had all worn off and I had near 50 reloads with the final cases. So depending on how hot you load them and that particular lot of brass case life will vary.

    gmsharps

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy



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    Midway had a blowout sale last year on military surplus steel cased 45acp in the large sardine cans with a repack date of 1943. Its all packed in the nice brown cardboard 50 round boxes. I haven't brought myself to shoot any of it yet but gave my dad a few boxes of it to keep with my granddads Remington Rand 1911 he bought for $35 when he came home from WWII. So yes there is still surplus 9mm, 45acp, 5.56, 30carb, 308, 30-06, 50bmg if you look for it and are willing to pay the sellers asking fee. CMP gets some from time to time but it goes quickly when they do get it.

    I will not reload A-merc it goes right to the scrap bucket. other than that I separate out small primer from large and pick out all nickel and set it aside for critter loads.

    Mario
    dagunnut

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    PMC & Fiocchi have given me trouble with off-center primer holes and usually pitch them. S&B and some Winchester have given me problems with tight primer pockets; those I sort for reaming if they are range pick ups. Everything else gets thrown together and used.

    If my 45 ACP brass fails, it is usually a small vertical split about a fourth of the way down the case which is noticable after I polish my brass.

  7. #27
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I have brass for .38 and .45 ACP that is older than me.
    The one time I bought it new, many years ago, it was Winchester. I have sorted in the past, and tried to keep it seperate, but it seemed to wind up mixed again. I do have some that is kept seperate for accuracy testing.

    SHiloh
    Je suis Charlie

    "A society of sheep must in time beget a government of wolves."
    Bertrand de Jouvenel

    “Any government that does not trust its citizens with firearms is either a tyranny, or planning to become one.” – Joseph P. Martino

    “If you put the federal government in charge of the Sahara Desert , in five years there would be a shortage of sand.” – Milton Friedman

    "Ideas are more powerful than guns. We would not let our enemies have guns; why should we let them have ideas?" - J. Stalin

  8. #28
    Boolit Master

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    An old Bullseye buddy told me not to waste any time sorting through brass. I looked at some of his and they were so old that they barely had head stamps.
    He always shot them until they split, and that isn't too often. Mine aren't that old, YET.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master

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    I have used at times every brand of brass that was talked about + quite a few other brands, now usually s&b and some other oddballs goes in the scrap bucket

    the brands i use the most are ,TZZ , IMI, WCC, winchester, starline ,PMC, speer/cci, federal , R&P.
    What i do is use a different load in each brand of brass that way if i look at the headstamp i know what powder & charge wt was used.

  10. #30
    Boolit Grand Master
    Mk42gunner's Avatar
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    The only .45 brass I have ever had any trouble loading was TZZ from the late 80's or early 90's. This was from back when we were having problems with high pressure loadings cracking slides on the extremely worn 1911-A1's the Navy had.

    I load on a single stage press and if it fits in the shell holder, it gets loaded. I am not shooting bullseye matches, but do okay with my mixed brass, W231 ad 452460.

    So just how much pressure does it take to expand the rim of a .45 ACP case to .487"? I got curious after several cases didn't go in the shell holder and measured a few, .484-.487". Surprised the heck out of me. The ones that get loaded seem to be good brass, so I don't know if it was high pressure loads or soft brass.

    Robert

  11. #31
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    tomme boy's Avatar
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    I don't know why you guys don't like the S&B 45 brass?? I really like it. I hand prime all of my 45 brass so that might make a difference.

    Save it all and send it to me. I am not kidding!

    Military brass is set aside and the crimps are removed then into the bucket with the rest. SP is set aside to sell.

  12. #32
    Boolit Bub
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    i dont sort at all, brass, nickle all loaded together, never really look at headstamp, shoot-tumble-reload-shoot-tumble etc etc, if i have trouble priming or any issues while running them thru my 550b then they come out and are thrown away, the only kind of sorting i do is, i dont pick up any small primer 45acp brass, there is seems to be quite alot of it on the ground at the shooting range, but, i have several thousand rounds of large primer so i stick with that

  13. #33
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    I sort out any small primer brass and give it away. The rest is used with no problems experienced.

  14. #34
    Boolit Buddy spfd1903's Avatar
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    Over the last couple years I have had access to thousands of pieces of Speer and WIN NT SPP brass. No matter how many times I have cleaned and adjusted the Large primer feed on the Dillon 550B, it still has consistency issues. The Small primer feed is flawless in performance so loading all the SPP. 45 auto is a lot quicker. The oldest cases I loaded were a batch from the local junkyard. Rem-UMC, WRA, WRA "Match", and some WCC from the 1960's. They were not shiny even after tumbling, but fired just fine. Found some of the Chrysler-Sunbeam steel case (Unknown to me at the moment) surplus at the range and tried everything to get it to shine up. When I realized gray was the only color it was going to be, I took a magnet to it and then researched the headstamp. So far, never any issues with PMC(Purchased the ammo in the last four years and reloaded the brass) or S & B.

  15. #35
    Boolit Grand Master

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    For REAL match ammo - like I will win a medal if I shoot good enough, I use only
    R-P brass after extensive testing. Other than that, S&B is a PITA with shallow and
    small primer pockets. Swage pockets on military cases, other than that, all
    in the bucket to run - less small primer brass.

    Bill
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  16. #36
    Boolit Master
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    Have you done any comparison testing or just "assumed" that sorting would be of benefit?
    I know this makes no sense, but in all the tests I have done over 40 years with sorting, I have not found one single time where sorting made any statistical improvement in group size for any handgun and, in most cases, I could argue that the mixed sets were more accurate (they can't be, but damn if 80% of the time they produce the smaller group any way--though not be a significant amount based on a student t-Test).
    Without testing, you really don't KNOW anything.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check