Hey, .357 maximum, lubes

[geargnasher]

If you add solid paraffin to the melted Vaseline/Ivory liquid, the heat that the paraffin sucks up right away forces the grease to gel instantly, which probably does make the soap actually precipitate out of solution. Either do it Mike's way and just dissolve the powdered, dry soap into the Vaseline/paraffin mix, or do what I do and melt the three together at high temp and allow it to cool/gel on it's own until about 250-300 degrees before throwing in your chunk of beeswax and stirring constantly as it gradually melts in and absorbs into the other ingredients.

Gear

[44man]

Not sure the sarcasm is at my expense or not but I wish I add a dollar for every time I've posted this link:

http://www.peakcandle.com/products/H...E__PW2008.aspx

BTW, when is the last time you purchased beeswax from Wal-Mart? Believe me, I wish I could get everything I need in one place but that's not going to happen... check the link to the cheapo, hopefully less refined Mexican version of Vaseline I posted above (post #130).

MJ

NO, NO, not at your expense and I agree with beeswax but a great person here sells it. But the baby oil, Vaseline and canning wax can be found in grocery stores.
The ATF might see it is used for boolits so they might ban baby oil.
It is a plot to kill off bees because we use wax for boolits.
Sounds crazy as hell, just like global warming when Gore made millions over false junk. The latest is to stop wood stoves, come here and see what a .50 feels like.
An ice age is due soon from the sun and tilt of the earth so gore can make a billion from telling all to burn coal.
Some stuff can be hard to find but not as hard as thought. lanolin is pretty easy and fairly cheap. Beeswax is harder but can be cheaper because some shooters here are also bee keepers. How great are those fellows?
The thing is you do not need expensive, altered paraffin when Gulf wax is what you need.
Hell, you need toilet rings--SOME ARE PLASTIC.

[fecmech]

Hills and I were just guilty of following instructions. When I saw the precipitation I thought it might be the temp dropping but wasn't sure. I got mine pretty well smoothed out by reheating to 225 deg and whipping the living daylights out of it for 4-5 minutes. If I do another batch I'll do the Vaseline and paraffin together.

[Marlin Junky]

Should I clear out my lube-a-sizer and make a new batch or should I try the lube I made where there was some partial soap precipitation.

You got a wife? Does she wear pantyhose? If you've already added beeswax, the easiest thing to do is filter the lube heated to about 220-225F so it'll strain through the nylon mesh. Women are always wrecking their hose so she probably has a pair that's ready for replacement.

MJ

[head for the hills]

You got a wife? Does she wear pantyhose? If you've already added beeswax, the easiest thing to do is filter the lube heated to about 220-225F so it'll strain through the nylon mesh. Women are always wrecking their hose so she probably has a pair that's ready for replacement.

MJ

Yes, I have a wife, but she doesn't wear pantyhose. She is a tomboy (She likes to shoot too). I will try my lube as is. If I have problems I will either strain it or make a new batch. Compared to all the rest of the reloading equipment I have purchased recently I could probably spring for a brandest newest pair of pantyhose. Better do this on the down-low though so as not to get in trouble with aforementioned wife.

[glockky]

I did the same thing but if you look at post #5 it clearly says melt the vaseline and soap flakes then add paraffin wax. I too put the paraffin in and started to see the soap come back out. I left it on the heat for about another 15 min with my candy thermometer showing 325deg and never did get it to completely go away.

Im gonna go ahead and try it. I'll make it differently next time. I just made a small batch anyways to test.

[Marlin Junky]

I did the same thing but if you look at post #5 it clearly says melt the vaseline and soap flakes then add paraffin wax. I too put the paraffin in and started to see the soap come back out. I left it on the heat for about another 15 min with my candy thermometer showing 325deg and never did get it to completely go away.

Im gonna go ahead and try it. I'll make it differently next time. I just made a small batch anyways to test.

Did you weigh the soap? From my experience 1 oz. of Ivory to 12 oz. of a 50/50 Vaseline/Paraffin mixture should go completely into solution at 325F; however, once the soap precipitates out of the 6oz solvent (the hot Vaseline), it can be difficult to get it back into solution even with more solvent (the hot 12oz. 50/50 mixture). Perhaps 3/4 oz might work better. Perhaps you could try a 7771 or 8881 formulation next time?

MJ

P.S. Here's a tip for getting more Ivory into solution: Don't use fresh Ivory (take it out of the cellophane wrapper and allow it dry out for several weeks). Then grate it on a fine grater similar to one used for garlic (vs. cheese) and you'll form a powder that will go into solution much easier.

[357maximum]

Head for the hills....thank you for pointing out a very good oopsi on my part......I will fix it, must have been tired. If you look in the lube recipe thread....I got it right there.....dag nabbit.


YES add the soap to the vaseline/paraffin mix......OOPS.... MEA CULPA

[glockky]

no problem at all. I usually make small batches to start with anyways. I made this batch 333 1/2. I think some of it mixed back in so I am still gonna use it.

[357maximum]

The procedure is corrected in both locations now.....do it one way and then describe it to others a different way.......early onset CRS perhaps?

Not sure if makes a huge difference but my ivory is very very dry....dry enough that it will turn to powder in a mini food processor with no clumps. Gear likes to add it wet/fresh, maybe I too should try that, but the first time I tried it that way it looked like I was making cracklins...so I started drying it. More than one way to skin a cat...I have tried several

[head for the hills]

Head for the hills....thank you for pointing out a very good oopsi on my part......I will fix it, must have been tired. If you look in the lube recipe thread....I got it right there.....dag nabbit.


YES add the soap to the vaseline/paraffin mix......OOPS.... MEA CULPA

Even mad scientist genius types have there moments. I well understand.

[357maximum]

Even mad scientist genius types have there moments. I well understand.

What really sucks is that when you get it wrong and then copy/paste...tadaa.......you got it wrong twice. Insert Homer SImpson "DOH" right here.

[Marlin Junky]

The procedure is corrected in both locations now.....do it one way and then describe it to others a different way.......early onset CRS perhaps?

Not sure if makes a huge difference but my ivory is very very dry....dry enough that it will turn to powder in a mini food processor with no clumps. Gear likes to add it wet/fresh, maybe I too should try that, but the first time I tried it that way it looked like I was making cracklins...so I started drying it. More than one way to skin a cat...I have tried several

IMHO, drier is better.

MJ

[357maximum]

IMHO, drier is better.

MJ

I 100% agree, but not every new lube cook will have the "wait" patience......good to know it can be done either way. First thing I do when I get home from the store is unwrap the ivory and put it to the back of the stack so it will be dry by the time I need it, but that is just me and how I do it.

[Marlin Junky]

'Nuther suggestion for those who dry fruit... uh huh... about two days in the old dehydrator ought to do it. After which, you should be grating your Ivory into dust and you don't need to worry about your pot foaming over when you add the soap to the hot oil either. But alas, you'll loose the mad scientist effect of your pot coming to life as it foams to the brim.

MJ

[Nrut]

How about let's we try the micro-wave, huh?
Or the toaster oven maybe?

single here..
LOL

[Eutectic]

I 100% agree, but not every new lube cook will have the "wait" patience......good to know it can be done either way. First thing I do when I get home from the store is unwrap the ivory and put it to the back of the stack so it will be dry by the time I need it, but that is just me and how I do it.

I vote for dry as well..... Not only is foaming less... but uniformity/repeatability variations batch to batch are less as well! How do you know how much of your Ivory is water when you weight it fresh???

I let a opened bar set in an unsealed baggie a couple weeks. When I think about it I'll grate all four sides on an old cheese grater. Once it get 'greasy' I stop. The 'gratings' go into another open baggie. In two weeks I repeat the process. I quit when I have a 10 pack of Ivory done! When I make lube I use the oldest bag first and it's D R Y !!

Eutectic

[head for the hills]

I grated mine fresh from the store. Put the gratings in a bowl, covered the bowl with a cloth and set it beside the wood stove. It was dry in two days and I got no foaming. Quick and easy. Grated and set in the sun would probably be equally effective.

[Marlin Junky]

I grated mine fresh from the store. Put the gratings in a bowl, covered the bowl with a cloth and set it beside the wood stove. It was dry in two days and I got no foaming. Quick and easy. Grated and set in the sun would probably be equally effective.

Yes but the object is to grate it dry so you create a fine powder that easily goes into solution.

MJ

[btroj]

Heck, I cut slivers off a wet bar when I need to. The foaming isnt bad if you are prepared for it.

I don't have fancy equipment like a food processor to use like some people......