I decided to not use the screen method, it's too hard to get the bullets out. Here are a couple photos of how it turned out.
Oddly enough it's quicker to twist the,
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I have also been testing The whole cleaning method, I can't see a difference i'm getting no flaking during sizing so I no longer clean them, I am still pre-heating.
Hope for change.
I'm going to attempt making a u tube video on this, any suggestions? I'm going to use the twist tie method, I picked up some thiner wire today to test. The first video will be prep then a second on coating the possibly a third on sizing and loading. Now that the weather is nice again I want to test velocity, accuracy, and possibly expansion in ballistic gel.
Hope for change.
You could possibly be onto a very good way to PC. Depends on how many uses you get out of the wire mesh. BTW, what's the size of the mesh?
I'm not into the wire mesh idea anymore, I tested it and it was too much a pain, I have however been doing the twist wire method and this is quicker and easier. I just finished a video I need to edit and post. I pcd about 120 bullets, sized about 240, and loaded almost 200 in 2 hrs while making the video. I may play with the hardware cloth idea with bigger bullets later but for now the Safty wire in the lube grove seems to be the fastest.
I have never made a video before so I'm going to go in the house and try to edit it now and I will post the link here when I get it onto YouTube, wish me luck and sorry of the video is crappy lol
Last edited by lka; 03-05-2014 at 07:22 PM.
Hope for change.
My first video so it's not perfect. I get nerves doing these things so,,,,,,
Hope for change.
So that is how you do it!
Question............have you ever considered that the lube you are using is deteriorating or softening the PC over time....especially inside the brass? Only a period of time will tell. We don't know, as this is a new process for all of us. The main reason for PC is to eliminate the $$ and need for grease and all the "stuff" involved with it. The bottom of the lube groove does not need any coating or portection. We are only concerned with the top of the grease grooves where they meet the rifling in the barrel.
Will be interested to see what you the PC looks like in 6 months after being in there. If you can, set some test carts aside and take them apart after some time and let us know.
Thanks for the vid!
banger
Huh, maybe I can coat a bullet with lube and set it aside for a bit, maybe set a loaded one as well and take it apart in a couple months.
And for the people concerned about abrasion, I'm going to rube some on different things like paper or cardboard, figured I could rub it until the PC comes off and see what happens. Or, maybe put one in a drill and run it on some soft material and see what the effects are.
I'll try some without lube when I test at the range to see if there's any difference, I have a couple 1911s so I was thinking about running a couple hundred PC and non pcs in clean barrels/guns and take some before/after photos.
Hope for change.
My test:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ght=scientific
Found early black ones were abrasive. Newer powders are not....at least to my "scientific" test!
banger
The can of black I am now using does not seem abrasive and is "new".......... I guess!
Just tried it and as I said in another thread (or somewhere on here!!!!!) I tried a "brown mix" I make from HF powders and the red & yellow coated the boolits perfectly and the black was left in the coolwhip tub!!!!!!! Good way of separating I guess!
It will NOT DT.
banger
I'm going to start a PC bullet website with info, any suggestions?
Hope for change.
Lol,, I wouldn't do a forum, too much baby setting and vbulletin is the only one I've had experience with and that stuff gets expensive, when these guys ask for donations, they really need it for servers and updates. lol.
But it would be cool to do some serious testing, find good powders at a low cost and what-not. Or it will just turn into another worthless domain in my account
Hope for change.
I'd suggest a page with a cleaned up list of this forum's definitive powders list (i.e. which powders work and which don't)
Also a page describing how to PC (all three methods - wet, dry, ES)
Maybe another one on which ovens to get/avoid
And sources of paint: HF, eastwood, all powders paint, PbtP, etc.
How about a page detailing that softer lead can be used, but not TOO soft (frequent question in this forum)
Sounds good if you don't mind sending me whatever information you have, Info@PCBullets.com
I'll work on making the pages for three different methods. And I'll do some testing with different types of lead. I should test hardness before and after the treatment, maybe with uncoated that have been through the "heat treatment" as well.
Hope for change.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |