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Thread: What do you think of this Logan 210

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    saw it Ken thanks, not sure about it looks like it was rode hard and turned out we... could be a franken-lathe? still feel good about the Logan

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy
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    Can't tell if it's dirty or worn from photo's

    Here's another that might be worth checking. Need more photo's and what's available with it. Not much info in the ad. It's Taiwan not ROC from what I've found on Google.

    http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/tls/4323366638.html

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    got it home, man am i tired from the 9 hour round trip! here it is as my son and i were unloading it in the garage... too heavy to lift so we went Egyptian and used pvc pipe and rolled it out, attaching the legs as we went... the 'moving' rollers proved worthless



    any of you guys ever see Truckdaily on instagram? that is my son, he owns and manages it

    the serial number is stamped on the tailstock, you can go the Logan website and find out when it was manufactured, this lathe was made in 1945
    Last edited by Cane_man; 02-10-2014 at 11:50 PM.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master

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    One nice lathe there, you won't regret it.
    All parts for that machine are still available from Logan, a bit pricy but there. Another good source is ebay. Many of these little lathe's were used in industry as " second operation" machines. They were solid and very well built. Have 3 of them myself, one I keep and gave one each to each of the boys.
    Son number one did go on to bigger and better things but son number two is like I am, trying to wear it out and not having much luck !!
    A nice machine.
    Facta non verba

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    thinking of adding this AXA 100 quick change tool post, anyone have one of these?


  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    I have an Atlas that was made in 1956 same year as I was born.
    It has the quick change gear box but I have not been able to make threads successfully
    yet I get it going and miss on the index and cut threads between the first threads making so much trash.
    I took 2 years of machine shop at VOTEC in Wichita, KS so I do know how to make threads.
    I still need a quick change tool post but haven’t decided on which one to purchase.
    BTW mine is 220V I think it would have been 110 if the wiring was switched.

    Good luck keep us posted on how your lathe works.
    NRA Life Member

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    quick change tool post: seems like the "wedge" type is more preferred than the "piston" type

  8. #28
    Boolit Grand Master Char-Gar's Avatar
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    I am glad you bought it. I would have bought it in a heart beat. There will be a serial number on the bed flat near the tailstock. You can visit Logan Actuators and get the year it was made. That is the original paint on that lathe, so I will bet it is in good shape.

    I only have experience with one used Logan. Ten years ago I bought the pictures 9 X 18 Logan for about what you paid for yours. I got it home, cleaned up adjusted and lubricated and put a piece of stock between centers and turned it on. I took a 12" cut and it showed a .004 taper. I nudged the tailstock over a smidge and did it again. This time I had a .0005 taper and I called that good. Not bad for a lathe made in 1947.

    Change gears do take time to change, but that is just the price to do it "old school". I think you will be happy.
    Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.

  9. #29
    Boolit Buddy MaLar's Avatar
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    I have that old South Bend I talked about earlier. Mine came with a half horse motor. It died, when I bought a new 1/2 horse motor it didn't have the power of the old one. So if you have the old motor in good condition it will be fine for the lathe. If you get a new motor get the 3/4 horse.

    What changed in motors from the old to the new? The difference in power is very noticeable.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master
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    i agree, i may change out the motor to 3/4hp, not now but eventually... Logan says you can do it if you change the belt to match it..

    just realized all my 7x12 tooling will work on the Logan, tail stock is MT2 for both and the 3/8" tool holders will fit fine in the quick change tool post...

  11. #31
    Boolit Grand Master Char-Gar's Avatar
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    I have about a 90 year old 1/3 hp cast iron motor on my lathe and it runs like new. I could put a bigger motor on and it would take a deeper cut, but I am in no hurry, so why bother.

    When I got the lathe, I took the motor down to a place that does those things to have a new cord put on and have it checked out in general. Champion Electric (the places name) tried to trade me a new motor for my old one. I kept the old one. I have to oil the bushings every time before I start it up, but that is no big problem.
    Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.

  12. #32
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cane_man View Post
    thinking of adding this AXA 100 quick change tool post, anyone have one of these?

    Cane, I have an AXA 100 on my 14X40. I bought it to go on a 10" Craftsman but never installed it. Then I got the 14". The wedge type are preferred to the piston style. My set also has the knurling tool with it, no lathe bits just the holders. The scissor type knurlers are better, but they are pricey compared to the ones that come with the sets. I think I paid about $120-130 plus shipping. Let me know if your interested in them for a discount with a PM, I might upgrade and get a BXA set. I had never used them until I started trying to make this set of dies.

  13. #33
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    While we're on the subject of lathes, I have a question or two.

    Mine came with some tooling (if you want to call it that) where the carbide inserts are pretty much KA-POOT. Being as busy as I am right now I've had a limited amount of time to look for the replacement inserts. When I look I'm greeted with numbers and letters referring to various inserts, right at that point it might as well be a dead language. I used to be a precision grinder and not a lathe person.

    I know all the letters and numbers means something and without some sort of a decoding cypher I'm lost. My triangle carbide inserts measure .600 from corner to corner but I guess they don't use that source of measurement. I know some of it refers to things like the radius and angle of the face ( I think) but not sure.

    Another thing, my holders or quick release holders that hold the indexable insert have numbering of 250-110 and 250-111 that hold a 1/2" tool. No clue what the makers name of the hold down is it only has the numbers 250 on it. So I get kinda frustrated when I try and look for inserts and replacement holders for the inserts.

    I was looking for thread tools and wondered if the inserts are unique to the holder, you know like if someone was trying to corner the market with cheap insert holders but real expensive inserts.
    Click to see what I'm doing and have available, this takes you to the VS (Vendor Sponsor) section of the site. Currently..25Rem,30Rem, 32Rem, 35Rem, 257Roberts, 358Win, 338Fed, 357 Herrett, 30 Herrett, 401 Winchester, 300Sav, 221 Fireball, 260Rem, 222Rem, 250 Savage, 8mm Mauser (AKA 8x57), 25-20WCF

    Annealing Services

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/foru...php?117-Grumpa






  14. #34
    Boolit Buddy
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    Sorry Cane, I just looked and mine is a BXA 200 series.

  15. #35
    Boolit Master
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    cc i just snagged the axa 100 this morning, with shipping about the same price you metion... and yes i am happier than a 3 peckered billy goat with the Logan!

    grumpa, i just went through all of that with the letters and numbers and the tooling, and the inserts a few weeks ago, i dont have time right now but can fill you in later tonight... yes, you need to match the correct size insert to what your holder is designed to hold

    edit: my work-horse tool bit is a BR6-C6
    B = the type of tool bit, this one is 45 degree, there all kinds as you know
    R = right hand cutting towards chuck, L is away
    6 = the size of the tool bit shank in 16ths, so this one is 6/16 = 3/8
    C6 = the type of material it can cut, this is C6 suitable for steel while C2 is for Aluminum (many flavors here)

    the insert is sized by the radius of an "inscribed circle" within the triangle, the center of this circle will line up with the set screw hole on your tool bit while the insert is flush with it
    Last edited by Cane_man; 02-11-2014 at 09:36 PM.

  16. #36
    Boolit Buddy ElDorado's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GRUMPA View Post
    While we're on the subject of lathes, I have a question or two.

    Mine came with some tooling (if you want to call it that) where the carbide inserts are pretty much KA-POOT. Being as busy as I am right now I've had a limited amount of time to look for the replacement inserts. When I look I'm greeted with numbers and letters referring to various inserts, right at that point it might as well be a dead language. I used to be a precision grinder and not a lathe person.

    I know all the letters and numbers means something and without some sort of a decoding cypher I'm lost. My triangle carbide inserts measure .600 from corner to corner but I guess they don't use that source of measurement. I know some of it refers to things like the radius and angle of the face ( I think) but not sure.

    Another thing, my holders or quick release holders that hold the indexable insert have numbering of 250-110 and 250-111 that hold a 1/2" tool. No clue what the makers name of the hold down is it only has the numbers 250 on it. So I get kinda frustrated when I try and look for inserts and replacement holders for the inserts.

    I was looking for thread tools and wondered if the inserts are unique to the holder, you know like if someone was trying to corner the market with cheap insert holders but real expensive inserts.
    This may help.

    http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-insert-d.htm

    This too.

    http://www.helmancnc.com/general-tur...r-cnc-dummies/


    Google "carbide insert nomenclature"
    Last edited by ElDorado; 02-11-2014 at 08:38 PM.

  17. #37
    Boolit Master Pavogrande's Avatar
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    Logan is a good machine for the home or small shop --
    Flat ways can often be a nicety for certain setups --
    1/2hp should certainly be enough for your needs -- my HF 7x10 may have more hp on paper but it does not take as heavy a cut as my old atlas with a 1/3hp motor --
    If it is in decent condition, with all the change gears, it is a fair buy --
    Change gears are a pain but get the job done -- often a temptation to make everything 32tpi though
    my tuppence --

  18. #38
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    Thanks ElDorado, those links are proving helpful right now. I'm getting to the point I can understand some of it and I'll get better with time I know. I just did a google search "carbide inserts" and have a lot of places to choose from. Which 1 I have no clue yet but it's going to boil down to pricing.

    Boy this stuff can be mind boggling but I'll have to learn sometime.
    Click to see what I'm doing and have available, this takes you to the VS (Vendor Sponsor) section of the site. Currently..25Rem,30Rem, 32Rem, 35Rem, 257Roberts, 358Win, 338Fed, 357 Herrett, 30 Herrett, 401 Winchester, 300Sav, 221 Fireball, 260Rem, 222Rem, 250 Savage, 8mm Mauser (AKA 8x57), 25-20WCF

    Annealing Services

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/foru...php?117-Grumpa






  19. #39
    Boolit Master
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    can't wait to start 7/8-14 single point threading, but i have to make a decent base for the stand... will post pics when i get a chance... looking at adding pads on the base that can be adjusted to level out the ways...

  20. #40
    Boolit Master dkf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cane_man View Post
    thinking of adding this AXA 100 quick change tool post, anyone have one of these?

    Yes, in a couple sizes. Enco is usually has the best pricing especially when they are running promos. They had a code of 15% off everything on Monday only. But they run month long promos often.

    While we're on the subject of lathes, I have a question or two.

    Mine came with some tooling (if you want to call it that) where the carbide inserts are pretty much KA-POOT. Being as busy as I am right now I've had a limited amount of time to look for the replacement inserts. When I look I'm greeted with numbers and letters referring to various inserts, right at that point it might as well be a dead language. I used to be a precision grinder and not a lathe person.

    I know all the letters and numbers means something and without some sort of a decoding cypher I'm lost. My triangle carbide inserts measure .600 from corner to corner but I guess they don't use that source of measurement. I know some of it refers to things like the radius and angle of the face ( I think) but not sure.

    Another thing, my holders or quick release holders that hold the indexable insert have numbering of 250-110 and 250-111 that hold a 1/2" tool. No clue what the makers name of the hold down is it only has the numbers 250 on it. So I get kinda frustrated when I try and look for inserts and replacement holders for the inserts.

    I was looking for thread tools and wondered if the inserts are unique to the holder, you know like if someone was trying to corner the market with cheap insert holders but real expensive inserts.
    I have been around machining and ordering/using toolholders/inserts for years and the whole insert thing can still be a PITA. There are lot of more standard shapes and geometries however most manufacturers have their own "special" designations for grades, chipbreaker and etc. Several companies have proprietary holders/bars that take proprietary inserts and they are always discontinuing stuff. Many of fact I am currently machining some toolholders for a customer since Seco/Carboloy decided to stop making them.

    The standard way of sizing the inserts is by inscribed circle (IC) which is the biggest circle that will fit in the center of the insert. If you need some help figuring out what inserts you need shoot me a PM.

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