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Thread: Reloading 380 with 9mm/223 dies?

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    May 2013
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    Reloading 380 with 9mm/223 dies?

    So I was digging around after having little luck finding 380 ammo to feed my new GLOCK 42 and picked up some brass and projectiles for reloading 100gr 380s. Problem... I don't have 380 dies. Then I found this thread:

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-with-9mm-dies

    So, I starts ta thinkin'(trouble brewing)... Can I do this with my 9mm and 223 dies? Anyone have a formula that works or am I wasting my time?

    Second question. If the biggest issues here is sizing and crimping, can I use a bulgebuster die I already have with a 380 factory crimp die and size with it initially, then crimp at the end and just pick up that one die?

  2. #2
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    So ya bought a brand new glock 42 then turn and realize 380 is expensive then instead of a 40 dollar set of dies in 380 ya wanna billy rig it to work with the wrong dies.

    yeah that makes sense.

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Given all the gyrations needed to make this work, I am wondering why you are balking at a proper set of .380 dies when you just spent major coin on a new Glock.

    Buy the correct dies and load quicker and more correctly with the proper sizing for the case. What was posted was a stopgap measure and is not the desirable condition. Look at the cartridge drawings.......380 is .373" at the mouth, .374" at the base. 9mm is .380 at the mouth, .391" at the base. Potentially the case mouth on the .380 is not touched or sized properly in a 9mm die.

    Spend the 35 bucks and get a carbide 3 die set and be done with it. Stopgap is just that.

    Yes, I read the article. I have 9mm and 380 dies. I don't do it for a reason. Reread the article again. He used a .360" cast bullet that your gun may not accept, and he measured his sized INSIDE case neck diameter at .356" which is larger than the .355" jacketed bullets you may use. Such may be enough tension for only .357" or larger bullets, assuming he measured the ID of the case neck correctly in the first place.

    If you want to shoot only big bullets, and not want to fully size your cases, have at it.

    But read it again. It's apparent you didn't understand the limitations to what he was doing the first time you read it. Pay attention to the dimensions and sizing. That should solve your dilemma.

    Reader's Digest Version:

    Buy the proper darn dies!

  4. #4
    Boolit Master



    Bzcraig's Avatar
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    Your willingness to adapt and overcome is admirable and will serve you well in many instances in the future. You need to learn when that is appropriate and when it's not. Cutting corners reloading WILL get you or someone else hurt or worse, it's just a matter of time. Spend the $40 and save yourself a lot of grief.
    "Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same......." - Ronald Reagan

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  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy Daddyfixit's Avatar
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    You can buy individual dies but still cheaper to just buy the set and be GTG
    http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/...productId/8012

  6. #6
    Boolit Master dudel's Avatar
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    I feel your pain. A buddy of mine got a Sig in .380. Very nice gun, but ammo was/is hard to find and more expensive than 9mm (his other caliber). So I figured I'd see if I could load some up for him. I had the brass, primers, powder and boolits; just no dies. I knew the shell plate/holders from .223 were correct, but nothing else was.

    If you look at the dimensions for 9mm vs .380, you'll see that the 9mm is really a tapered case while the .380 is essentially a cylinder. The dies aren't the same. Not like using .357Mag dies to do 38spl or 45ACP dies to do 45GAP. The 9mm and .380 dies do NOT interchange.

    Best advice, as others have said, is to get a set of .380 dies. It's what I ended up doing, and glad I did (and I don't even have a gun in .380!) I'd hate to use any jerry rigged ammo myself; let alone give it to a buddy to use. It's not only your safety, but those next to you on the range. You should be able to lay your hands on a set of Lee for under $30 and Hornady for a few dollars more.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    "Second question. If the biggest issues here is sizing and crimping, can I use a bulgebuster die I already have with a 380 factory crimp die and size with it initially, then crimp at the end and just pick up that one die?"

    Why don't you try it and see? That's cheap, it's easy to test and you'll see quickly too. ??

  8. #8
    Boolit Man
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    Bought a .380 bought Dillon .380 dies =
    Time is too short to mess with not having the right tool for the job.
    I would try to do what you propose if it was for some weird wildcat that I was only going to reload a couple of rounds just to shoot it one time not for something that you might need to work 100%.
    Bill

  9. #9
    Boolit Master pretzelxx's Avatar
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    Wait, $40 is expensive? I considered a $110 die for casual shooting. That's a single die. Spend the extra money to make it right than to do it wrong and ruin something that'll cost twice or more for fix.
    Using Tapatalk

  10. #10
    Boolit Bub
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    Wow... didn't figure the group here would be so unhelpful and insulting. Thanks for nothing. Continue your boring do it by the book lives... God forbid someone try something different I suppose...

    FYI, it's not about the money or the time...

  11. #11
    Boolit Master



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    I understand you desire to do it your way. I agree that most of the responses on this thread were snide and catty. I don't know why they are that way with the new members, but so many are. HOWEVER, the core to all the responses are the same, get the proper dies. According to my reference book, in my lap, the .380 rim/head/neck is .374/.373/.372. The 9mm Parabellum is .393/.392/.38. The closest measurement is the case mouth, with a difference of .008. You might be able to make it work, but, why take the chance? It is far easier to simply get the proper dies. Lee sells them in a 3 die carbide set for around $45.00. If the 2 die sets were closer, I'd say, yeah, but when it is 8 thou off, I would call that out of bounds. I have jury-rigged some things, for a while, but then finally bit the boolit, and ordered the proper stuff, once I found out that it wouldn't work. I think that your idea falls into the 'won't work' category. You can go ahead and try, but, don't be surprised if the boolit is not crimped tightly enough and gets pushed back into the case. This might cause a compressed load condition, and could be dangerous. Anyway, good luck with your efforts. mikey

  12. #12
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    Just man up and buy the right dies to reload correctly. You want to do stupid ship then purchase an adapter so that you can use toilet paper as an oil filter in your car and let reality stay with reloading.

  13. #13
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    Just buy this and be done. I love 380's, this thing churns em out. Hehehehe Saved up the $.


    my set-up at ft bragg, i shoot almost every day. I have to run presses alot. l cast & stain my 380.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master


    Alvarez Kelly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gunoil View Post
    Just buy this and be done. I love 380's, this thing churns em out. Hehehehe Saved up the $.


    my set-up at ft bragg, i shoot almost every day. I have to run presses alot. l cast & stain my 380.
    Who made your bullet feeder set up?

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check