New big bore lever on the way

[rush1886]

An '86 in 50-110 is one item I'll probably not see crossed off my bucket list. My soul could belong to Beezle Bub for this one!!!!!!!!!!!!

[sharpsguy]

That 1-20 twist won't really start to shoot until the bullet weight gets around 650 grains. Some of the guys shooting 50-90 and 50-140 Sharps are having to use 750 grain bullets. My 50-90 Sharps with a 1-24 twist won't shoot until the bullet weight gets to 650 grains.

In that repeater, you will have trouble getting a heavy bullet to feed due to COAL. One that WILL work is the Saeco 583. It is 650 grains and has most of the bullet in the case, like a Loverin. It has five grease grooves. That rifle is going to Kick--a lot. It IS a beautiful rifle. Good luck.

[WILDEBILL308]

That is a nice rifle! I talked to Doug when he was in Dallas the first part of the month. I have a project I want to send him later this year.
Bill

[jonp]

There are no words to describe how much you suck...That is one, beautiful firearm. Congrats

[veeman]

Sweet!

[Plastikosmd]

Well Jon did I tell u it came with dies, maybe 50 loaded factory rounds and 88 pcs of starline brass

[Plastikosmd]

Thx sharps guy
For a 650 gr boolit I would guess I would start around 85g FFg?
While I know it can handle smokeless, I prefer to shoot black.

[jonp]

Well Jon did I tell u it came with dies, maybe 50 loaded factory rounds and 88 pcs of starline brass

I was wrong. There are several words but the mods would ban me

How do expect to hit anything with that lever? Your grin is going to be so big your eyes will be all squinty.

[Plastikosmd]

I squint when i smile. I have been smiling a lot for practice

[funshooter]

WOW Just WOW what a beautiful firearm.

I just ordered a 45-90 from them about 2 weeks ago they told me that it would be about a year.

I sure hope it looks as good as the one you have.

[Plastikosmd]

I'm sure it will, I guess he is pretty well known in the case-color world. I just stumbled on it as someone needed to sell it after having it built, lucky I guess.

[Plastikosmd]

Alright, who doesn't like more pics?

Big hole!

I love the sights, buckhorn to ladder




Now I could really use your help in my first loads. I want to stay with black and lead, maybe duplex. Twist is 1/20. I do a great deal of muzzleloading and slug gun shooting. I use cross paper patching there and think I want to try paper on this lever( I read on the challenges of this)
Trying to find some cast projectiles has been a challenge. Either out of stock or out of business. Prefer to buy first then cast. The powder cards, cookies, lube is all new to me so talk slow!

[Dframe]

Thats about the purtiest rifle I've ever seen. And in a real butt kickin calibre too.

[W.R.Buchanan]

I would recommend finding some boolits in the 350 gr range and work up from there. There are plenty of moulds out there and the idea that you need to shoot 650 gr boolits is just not going to be very productive since you will be able to pull the trigger maybe twice on a good day, and thus your load development will take forever. Nobody could shoot 650 gr boolits in a 10-11 lb gun for very long.

Brian Pearce did an article for Rifle magazine in the last year or so on the 50 Alaskan, which for all intents and purposes is very close to 50-110 IE: uses the same boolits. Boolits for the .500S&W would also work.

I would look at a 350 gr boolit with a charge of not more than 30 gr of 5744 to start with before I went down the black powder road. This would give you a base line of load information that you could see how much you can actually take in the way of recoil by simply upping the charge a little at a time until you can't stand it anymore. I already know 5744 will work in this gun. After you figure out what your limits are, and know how to make the gun work, then you could expand your hobby into the BP loadings. Seems like a more prudent approach. My standard load for my 45.70 is 300 gr RNFP with 25 gr of 5744 and I can shoot 40 of these in one day at Cowboy Silhouette and not have any adverse effects. However it only weighs 7 lbs 4 oz, but it does have a 1" thick Pachmayer Recoil pad on it. It is also getting 2lbs of lead cast into the buttstock soon. Point being,,, to work up from a minimum load on this big a gun.

The recoil of this gun is going to be the defining factor in it's use, and at least you can use a slip on recoil pad with the shotgun buttplate. However if you work up to your limit instead of trying to shoot cannon fodder right out of the gate, you'll get a lot more enjoyment out of your score.

And believe me you did score big! Nice gun!

As other have not, I won't ask what you paid for it either,,, however we still all want to know.

Randy

[Plastikosmd]

Thank you. We'll I guess I should hold on the order of 525g and 620g boolits..
Well they are ordered!
I got it for about 1k under build cost and no wait, maybe a bit more from what I can see on turnbull site.

I am use to shooting big charges but that is behind big bench guns. Now u got me a bit worried! I do like black but recognize the challenges of cleaning over a single shot or front stuffer.

I do have a past or whatever recoil pad. So I guess I will strap that on.
I will keep u updated on the progress

[Bullshop]

Just FYI we have a really good selection of boolit designs for the 50/110 in both express type and heavy in both PB and GC. We also have a couple PP designs but would have to be single loaded as the meplate is too small for loading in the tube.
I have an original 1886 that has been re-barreled to 50-2.2" I loaned it out last week for a buffalo harvest on a rouge bull that was being disrespectful to fences . It worked well on a huge bull that went somewhere near a ton live weight.
The load was pushing a 510gn WFN to 1750 fps. The recovered boolits were perfect classic mushrooms.
Oh I almost forgot to mention, I am just starting to rebuild our new web site. We just put up some info on our lubes but do not yet have a mold list up. I hope that will happen very soon.

[Plastikosmd]

Sweet! Let me browse and send u an order. Really would want the paper to stack in tube even if I have to keep it below the brass rim

[Bullshop]

I have used the PP in my 1886 by bumping a larger meplate. In the nose bumping process if your not familiar with it what I do is to patch the boolit then run it nose first into a sizer die of the desired finished patched diameter. Adjust the depth screw to stop the ram at the desire meplate size.
This can and does work but if trying to increase meplate diameter too much will deform the ogive somewhat.

[Plastikosmd]

So it almost creates a band in front of the pp to shield it?

[Bullshop]

So it almost creates a band in front of the pp to shield it?

I don't really understand the question. The bumping process is only effecting the size of the meplate in this case.
Bumping can be done to increase the boolit diameter to a certain degree but that requires a nose punch that closely fits the boolit ogive. What I am talking about is running the boolit into the die nose first and using a flat nose punch applied to the base of the boolit. The adjustment process is to back the depth adjusting screw all the way down so when the nose punch contacts the die the boolit nose is not yet in contact with the top of the ejector punch in the die. The holding the ram down with the top punch in contact with the top of the die screw the depth adjusting screw up until it comes in contact with the bottom of the ejector punch in the die.
At this point there will be zero bumping. Now raise the ram and adjust the depth adjusting screw up a very little bit at a time and after each adjustment bring the ram down to the point that the top punch stops it. Check to see how much meplate you gained and if you want more screw the depth adjuster up a little more until you get what you want. Of course this is only done with fairly soft alloys and I would guess that when BHN gets near 15 or so it will be too hard on the press.